 | Home > Technical > Central locking woes |
 
|
|
|
| twopoint6khz Member Since: 18 Aug 2011 Location: North Lakes Posts: 654   
|
In the previous cold snap the rear passenger door lock mechanism froze up. This was then forced from the inside and the button broke. At the same time, the door stopped central locking.
I have now had the door to bits and replaced the broken button, so it can at least be unlocked. However the central locking still doesn't work. Having pulled the plug from the bottom of the actuator, I seem to be getting 0V across it even when the locking is firing - I'd have thought there'd be a 12V pulse to get it to lock? Wiring seems in good condition, and the mechanism moves ok if you move the actuator manually. Are they individually fused? A look in the fuse box would seem to suggest not, but it's not totally clear which fuse governs the locking. Any wisdom appreciated....  |
||
17th Jan 2012 1:55pm |
|
| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1827  
|
Check the wiring through the b post, theres a plug in the hole at the base of the B post where you can check the pulse - but I'll bet the wires broken in the rubber conduit between post and door,,,
Keith |
||
|
17th Jan 2012 10:51pm |
|
| twopoint6khz Member Since: 18 Aug 2011 Location: North Lakes Posts: 654
|
As a footnote to this, yes you turned out to be correct, the wires had snapped. Not in the conduit thankfully, but just past the end of it in the B-pillar. No signs of real chafing though? My theory is the wires became brittle when it was very cold and then did rub a bit, causing snappage.
Anyway, easy fix for once!  |
||
|
6th Mar 2012 12:15pm |
|
| 110SEB Member Since: 29 Jan 2009 Location: Essex, England Posts: 1444 
|
Any more info on this one? Do the wires in the conduit attach to plugs in the door and B pillar? Does anyone know what the part number is for the stretch of wiring? Mine has gone again and i'd like to fix it myself. |
||
|
20th Nov 2012 12:11pm |
|
| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17613 
|
This is actually quite a common probelm with 110 and 130 second row doors and is entirely due to the flexing of the wires as the door is opened and closed.
The central locking wires are more prone to break than the electric window wires since they are thinner. When you compare the front door flex conduit to the rear door you can see exactly why this happens - another distinctly crass bit of design. |
||
|
20th Nov 2012 2:31pm |
|
| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459 
|
Same thing for me two weeks ago replace the wire and its fine now
|
||
|
20th Nov 2012 3:01pm |
|
| johnbain Member Since: 28 Oct 2012 Location: livingston Posts: 34
|
im having problems with my x tech to be honest why did they start putting central locking in, that and electric window s just cause more grief
 Range rover td6
defender2 xtech |
||
|
11th Dec 2012 7:48pm |
|
| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
|
Interesting. I have just repaired the drivers side electric window wires which broke inside the flexible rubber conduit. Put it down to fatigue. I will say this, I have had recent cause to fix the passenger side 2nd row central locking mechanism. The actuator was working fine, locked the door as it should, it just would not open the darned lock. The problem was the white plastic/nylon pivot that the actuator, lock plunger and lock attach to... Stiff as... barely move it by hand. A good bit of white grease and 10-15 minutes of working the pivot and all is well and good again.
Incidentally should any of you have the Defender doors not shutting issue take a look at this - http://forum.landrovernet.com/content.php/...How-to-Fix |
||
|
11th Dec 2012 8:33pm |
|
| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8172  
|
my passenger rear door CDL is inop too! will check wires Cheers
James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
||
|
11th Dec 2012 8:34pm |
|
| johnbain Member Since: 28 Oct 2012 Location: livingston Posts: 34
|
the sad bit about my drivers door not opening is that my motor is only 3 mths old and a wee bit frost stops the drivers door opening its so annoying Range rover td6
defender2 xtech |
||
|
12th Dec 2012 6:22am |
|
| johnbain Member Since: 28 Oct 2012 Location: livingston Posts: 34
|
the sad bit about my drivers door not opening is that my motor is only 3 mths old and a wee bit frost stops the drivers door opening its so annoying Range rover td6
defender2 xtech |
||
|
12th Dec 2012 6:22am |
|
| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
|
Freezing weather makes any grease on the lock mechanism go stiff so much so that it inhibits full functioning of the lock. To do a proper fix you need to strip the door card off, peel back the inner membrane and use some brake or carb cleaner to shift any old grease on the operating mechanism, swivels, locks rods etc, allow to dry and then lube with graphite powder or alternatively service spray or similar. With the card still off work the central locking with door button with the door open but the lock catch clicked back into the closed position - watch the innards and make sure all is well and working freely, if so replace door card and the rest of the gubbins. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
||
|
12th Dec 2012 11:17am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
