 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fuel pump? Coil? Ballast resistor? Now sorted!!!!!! |
 
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171   
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Hi all
I just changed my fuel filter (a bit sandy!) and installed a Facet fuel pump (exterior version). I can hear it pumping away quickly but it does not seem to pumping fuel. Do i need to prime the pump somehow? Any help appreciated! Cheers Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) Last edited by Timo on 18th Oct 2012 12:27am. Edited 3 times in total |
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13th Oct 2012 9:18pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101  
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v8?
fill the filter..if poss with fuel it'l drag the fuel through |
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13th Oct 2012 9:24pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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Wow you guys are fast!
Its a 3.5l V8. I went to take the filter off to fill it up and it seems to be full already (it was running all over my arm as i was unscrewing it. Ill try this again tomorrow. It just started pouring rain here so i am done for the day Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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13th Oct 2012 9:37pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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OK
So it doesn't start. With my dodgy fuel pump making a funny noise I decide to change it from the aftermarket SU dual pump to the original Facet spec pump (its an exterior pump) (1984 3.5L V  . It is happily ticking away and is working to fill up the float bowl (I pulled the top of one of the float chamber covers and I can see the fuel coming out.
So I checked the coil and it had a very poor spark coming from the lead to the engine block when I pulled it off and made the current jump to the engine block. So I replaced the coil. It now has a nice spark but still won't start. 
While cranking it over trying to get it to start, I noticed (luckily) that the ballast resistor was getting really really hot, almost starting to smoke! I unplugged it and let every cool down before I tried it again. Within about 3-5 min of trying to start the engine, the ballast resistor was getting hot again (and no luck with it turning over) so I turned the ignition off and everything cooled down. I really don't know.... 1- why it won't start 2- why the ballast resistor is getting so hot (wrong coil?) Any help is appreciated Cheers Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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16th Oct 2012 11:17pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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Ok
So just to follow up The coil was knackered but even after replacing it, still no luck in getting it to start. It turns out that during my efforts to get it started i flooded it so many times that it saturated the new plugs and they are toast. I put the old ones back in and with a bit of effort it started up and runs quite smooth. I am still going to change the cap and rotor but i think i have beat this hurdle....for now And apparently the ballast resistors will get hot if you continually crank a non starting engine Cheers Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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18th Oct 2012 12:26am |
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| LR90XS2011 Member Since: 05 Apr 2011 Location: bickenhill Posts: 3643  
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Glad you have fixed it
put the new plugs in the oven or on the stove for a few mins until the flames around the electrodes diminish indicating the petrol has burnt off they will be fine after that (but dont get them red hot) and watch you dont burn your fingers DEFENDER 90 TDCI XS, I hope everyone is well and your land rovers make you happy |
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18th Oct 2012 5:15am |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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Ummm how would the pizza taste after this.......
Just got new plugs today (cap and rotor is on the way tomorrow) Cheers T Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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19th Oct 2012 1:54am |
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