 | Home > Td5 > Central Door Locking + New Alarm |
 
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678  
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I used to fit alarms / central locking years ago, it's not particularly difficult just time consuming.
It's worth using the genuine parts rubber cable tubes to take the cables from the door to the vehicle to make a neat job, however it will depend on the age of your vehicle as to wether there are existing holes in the bulkhead to accept the cables or not - if not the installer will have the same problem of course .... Positioning of the actuators can be mimicked from an existing set up - I'm sure someone on here will have a door panel off at some point and take a picture. Aftermarket central locking kits are really cheap to buy and the quality of the actuators seems to be as good regardless of the price paid - the price you have been quoted is probably 80% labour charge ... |
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31st Jul 2012 1:25pm |
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| Porny Site Sponsor Member Since: 31 Aug 2009 Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands Posts: 809 
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Easy...
All Td5's have a Alarm unit - it just depends on what settings it is in (poverty spec to full XS) to how much functionality it has. If you didn't want central locking, you could just have your current alarm ECU (*****270) set into an 'active' state. Easy to fit ultrasonic sensor etc etc and even a battery back up alarm if needed. Wouldn't be CAT 1, but with a few well advised tweaks is a good option. If you go down the central locking route - get your current alarm 10AS alarm ECU unit swapped to a a central locking version (ends *****280 rather than ***270 as per your current one) - is plug and play and a 10 minute job with the correct diagnostic equipment. Then three wires to the the drivers door, 2 wires to the passenger door and the rear door... and then fit genuine LR central locking solenoids and fittings - and do an 'as factory' conversion. For the back door you would need a central locking door lock set up. If you wanted a CAT 1 alarm - http://www.mobilecentre.co.uk/index.php?ma...ath=36_225 - this will work with the ****280 10AS unit - meaning that it all works off a standard Land Rover alarm fob - or upgrade to an all in one key at the same time. If it was me I'd go for the tracker kit as well. In all honesty, a lot of the aftermarket central locking kit is fit the bin... I'd run all genuine parts - which as well as looking a much more professional conversion - also means spare parts are easy to obtain. Ian |
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31st Jul 2012 1:50pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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All true BUT have you priced up Genuine actuators, door looms, etc etc - will be more than £300 ...
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31st Jul 2012 2:06pm |
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| Porny Site Sponsor Member Since: 31 Aug 2009 Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands Posts: 809
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£24 each for front door actuators, £24 for each door harness, a few quid for the additional bars/rods... The rear lock, actuator and rods/pivot will be about £120. A second hand 10AS unit is about £70... A few screws and a bit of wire - and then labour. Ian |
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31st Jul 2012 2:28pm |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Fair enough
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31st Jul 2012 2:31pm |
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| Appleby Member Since: 03 Apr 2012 Location: Bristol Posts: 74 
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Thanks for the response so far,
I have a 2002 Td5 which I think was the base spec van. Is there likely to be any wiring from the ECU? I'm more than happy to fit the actuators and wiring myself and then get the shop to wire it into the new alarm unit (if that is possible/advisable?) where about am I best off looking for the oem actuators and loom? Ta |
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31st Jul 2012 2:35pm |
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| Pam W Member Since: 25 Oct 2011 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1169  
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I got the vast majority of my LR Td5 alarm and central locking kit second hand off ebay, with a few bits and bobs bought new to finish the job off. Cost very little compared to getting new after-market stuff and matches up perfectly with the Td5 looms and ecu we used when we rebuilt my 300 Tdi base model (which actually had a V8 in at the time, but more recently converted to TD5)
Not had any hassle with either the central locking or alarm since fitting it 2.5 years ago. I use a LR fob which is the alarm and central locking combined (she says, touching wood rapidly!) with separate door key (never used). (Tell a lie, had a problem with the central locking once, but that was when it froze last winter after I washed it the night before - got itself in a right pickle until it defrosted! lol) I also have a Cat 2 immobiliser on it, which I had before and re-fitted on the re-build as extra security. Probably going with a battery cut-off switch as well at some point as part of its transformation into an overlander....  Our blog - http://landytravels.com/
Yorkshire Off Road Club - http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net |
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31st Jul 2012 2:59pm |
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| Romadog Member Since: 07 Jul 2011 Location: Powys Posts: 1750 |
I purchased a TD5 bulkhead loom from Newbury Sortout. It supports alarm, central locking, heated seats and heated screen. I have stripped the wiring out for each system, so that I can fit it into my bulkhead loom (50th Anniversay). The actators are all genuine complete electric window panels from damaged doors purchased from Equicar.
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31st Jul 2012 6:08pm |
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| Appleby Member Since: 03 Apr 2012 Location: Bristol Posts: 74
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Well I cheaped out and bought a generic kit its all fitted and works a treat with the wires trapsed across the interior. However I am now starting to think about utilising the 10AS so when I get an alarm installed (Cobra Cat1 alarm to be precise) it can be wired in more easily.
Reading through old threads PaulMc was linking to a website which is now no longer available! Does anybody have this information as I belive it would be exactly the information I am looking for! Edit - this was the website - http://la7dja.org/defender/cdl/ Pics of my work to follow! Thanks |
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23rd Aug 2012 1:04pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6112 
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I have that webpage saved here, fling me your email and i'll send it over.
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23rd Aug 2012 1:19pm |
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| Appleby Member Since: 03 Apr 2012 Location: Bristol Posts: 74
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nect question is where on earth the factory loom would come out. I have taken the rubber grommit off below the check-strap but where abouts would the other end usually be? I've been feeding wires up into the bulkhead trying to find a hole but no such luck! Any suggestions?
Thanks |
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23rd Aug 2012 5:36pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6112
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They do go up through the bulkhead, but then out into the under-bonnet area, so you need to be aiming the wires through the A pillar as opposed to up into the dash area.
Once under the bonnet they join the main dash loom by going through the large rubber grommets on the "back" of the dash area (by the cooling water header tank) |
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24th Aug 2012 6:16am |
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| Appleby Member Since: 03 Apr 2012 Location: Bristol Posts: 74
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Certainly are! A bit of a struggle getting the wires in but the are done now and look very factory fit. Now the next question. For the rear door I can see I have a plug that eclipse into a blanking socket on the rear wiper motor. Is there any way I can piggyback this wire to avoid having to run a new wire through?
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27th Aug 2012 3:40pm |
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