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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17240   
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Glyn, I presume you are going down the synthetic rope route?
I would suggest either:- 1) fit spacer blocks behind the fairlead in order to bring it forward to a point where there is adequate upward fleet angle without rubbing on the sharp edge (preferred solution with steel rope and roller fairlead), or 2) modify the bumper by welding a round section into the flange, so that if the rope is lifted it will rub on a round edge not a sharp edge. This would be my preferred solution for synthetic rope and a plain fairlead. In general for self recovery the lower the rope exit the better (since it tends to lift the vehicle rather than pull it into the ground), for recovering others then the higher the better, but you can do this through careful rigging. The lower the rope exit is in relation to the winch mount, the less the torsional loading on the mount. |
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20th Aug 2012 10:46am |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015  
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Yes it is a synthetic rope....... kinda wish I didn't bother and stuck to the wire as then there wouldn't be any problems.
It's primary role is recovery of others. At the end of the day off-road is a multi vehicle sport and if you get stuck driving forward.... most likely the best route out is backwards- so vehicle behind winching. What spacers are out there?...... other thing would be that if I am pulling at 30 degree upwards or downwards it would be putting a fair bit of strain on the fairlead. As for the tube idea........ might have a plan there  . For now I think I will mount it to the top and then look at the other options.... unless someone else comes up with anything.
Glyn   |
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20th Aug 2012 11:05am |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015
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Also......forgot this... the winch is a 8274 so doesn't matter if the rope exits the top or bottom it has the same loading on the mount
Glyn |
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20th Aug 2012 11:10am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17240
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I wouldn't rely solely on the fairlead to put a 30 degree change of direction, I'd rig it with a snatch block. A 30deg deflection upwards with a 4000kgf line pull (stall load on the 8274 IIRC) will put a 2000kgf vertical load on the fairlead, which really is a bit much. Apart from anything else the friction of the rope passing over a plain fairlead at that angle will very rapidly wear a groove in the fairlead, and the risk of rope damage is high. You could even bend a roller on a roller fairlead with that sort of load. However, given that it is unlikely that you would be winching a load that big at an angle that sharp, if you apply common sense (which I am sure you will) you probably won't have a problem, it will be amply strong enough. If you wanted a spacer you would almost certainly have to make one up (get the LAD to flame cut you one from some 1" plate or similar). Remember that in the ideal situation if you rig properly the rope won't even touch the fairlead; if it does, it will be a very gentle graze. The only LR winch I have ever seen with a proper fairlead, i.e., one designed to alter the fleet angle of the winch cable, was that used on the 101. That was designed as a proper fairlead, in other words no matter what the fleet angle the bend radius of the rope was never tight enough to be damaging, and the rope was properly supported aroudn its circumference. Even a roller fairlead has rollers that are way too small for the bend radius of the rope, and will flatten the rope round the bend. Both of these failings will knacker a wire rope fairly quickly. A synthetic is more forgiving, but arguably less robust. Proper rigging is the answer. |
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20th Aug 2012 11:45am |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015
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I went back into work and went about the temp fix of mounting it higher....... and half way through it kicked me in the face that the brake on the 8274 isn't in both directions
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So I went and finished off fitting it in the low mount. All went well, and got 100 foot of rope on the drum before the solenoids decided to go crazy and lock on 'spool out'....... so looks like Albright is in order next month when I can afford it- I am just glad I wired in a cut off switch!! That will give me a couple of weeks to get some metal bar and weld it to the bumper (and paint it). Then I should be all good 
It does look awesome though!! Glyn |
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20th Aug 2012 4:51pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015
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It isn't so much as I would try the pull, but when in the slippery stuff I have experienced that angles can change for the worst quite quickly. I would rather it be fool proof just in case- plus sometimes you don't have an option. The winch is full GP uprated inside and running a 6.8HP bow motor2 with reduced diameter drum, so should be able to get a better pull out of it 
Glyn |
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20th Aug 2012 4:57pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015
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It is on and in now. I was so frustrated with the solenoid problem that I sacked off work (don't tell the boss) and went about stripping, cleaning and re assembling the faulty solenoids (2 of the 4). I then put it all back together and fitted it. It is all now fully fitted and working a treat........... just need to find something to winch out now.
It is all a tight fit!!!  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Glyn :sheep:
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
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22nd Aug 2012 12:34pm |
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