 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fuel pump help? |
 
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171   
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Hi all
While driving back from holidays yesterday I had intermittent complete loss of power, then it would kick back in and we would continue driving. After a while it got so bad that we ended up stuck at the side of the road. While sitting there pondering my future I realized that I could not hear the tick of the fuel pump (1984 110 V  . I got under the truck and wiggled the connections and it seemed to get going again. About 1hr later the symptoms returned but my quick fix of wiggling the connections did no good and it really seemed to be not ticking at all.
Before I go out and source a new fuel pump does anyone have any ideas? Anything else I should try? I believe the fuel pump was replaced about 3 years ago. Cheers Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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22nd Jul 2012 1:47pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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Thanks Andy. I'll try checking my power supply first
Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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23rd Jul 2012 1:31pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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So I have determined that the ground is fine on the pump and that I have a constant power source to the pump, but still it has intermittent pumping.
I have a few options. 1 - take it apart to see what I can find (no idea what I am looking for) 2 -order the same SU replacement dual pump AZX1405 (EN or not?) 3 - order a Britpart PRC3901 that really does not look the part, but is available over here I am leaning towards option 2 but it will take some time to have it shipped over from the UK to Canada. Any thoughts? Thanks T_ Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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26th Jul 2012 8:26pm |
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| bob neville Member Since: 30 Apr 2009 Location: Marbella Posts: 3248  
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Forget option three, probably available in Canada as they keep packing up and need to be replaced.
Go for option two. Shipping from Canada to the UK is quite fast, normally 5 to 7 days so I would guess the same the other way. Make sure you get the correct one, there is a £40 - £50 difference between EN and non EN. Is this the one you are after, the SU part you mention is a lot more expensive and appears to be for Aston Martins etc 
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listi...-PUMP.html Bob 2015 Jaguar XE240 R Sport - goes like ....... !! 2013 Defender 90 CSW - sold 2009 Defender 110 Double Cab - sold 2001 TD5 90 CSW - offroad project - sold to a forum member 2011 Porsche Boxster - for the sunny days ! |
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26th Jul 2012 8:38pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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Bob
I still need to figure out how to tell if it's an En or non En pump. Thanks for the thoughts, I think replacing the SU pump with the same one would be the best bet Cheers Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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27th Jul 2012 2:11am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610  
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I am not sure about the fuel system on your truck. One thing I am sure is that I made a blatant mistake in my diagnosis chasing a similar fault on another vehicle.
I too could not hear the fuel pump working and checked the electrical supply to it (which there was no 12 volts present). What I forgot to take into account was that there was a fuel pressure switch in the system that isolated the pump to prevent the fuel lines from over pressurising. Fine when the vehicle was running but if it did not start and there was still pressure in the line the pump would not run. I notice you state the 12 volts is constantly present, if you are sure you are on the right path. Maybe worth checking, it could save you going down the wrong one perhaps.  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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27th Jul 2012 2:58am |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6090 
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Best buy a pushbike with the money left over.... you'll need it to get home after you fit a Brit-part!  |
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27th Jul 2012 6:42am |
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| wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581
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Is the pump on yours one of those bolted to the chassis, half way along?
It is probably similar to the Range Rover Classis pumps for the later 3.5 on carbs? You should be able to find a Facet pump similar to the one you have. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID009254 |
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27th Jul 2012 8:39am |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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K9F - it normally clicks away regularly even when it has been sitting with the ignition on for a bit. When I went back to check it later it did not click at all under start up.
Jim - yes this was my thoughts on this pump wlsr: yes it is the one bolted half way along. I think it was upgraded to this hi zoot SU pump (that has still crapped out) as the PO was planning a trip around the world in this truck before he injured himself. I will check into this rimmer bros one as it does look like it might do the trick And as for the 2 options of SU pumps EN and non EN. The EN one is electric and the non EN has points (from what I can find on the information super highway) Cheers Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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27th Jul 2012 11:40am |
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| davew Member Since: 02 Jan 2012 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 888  
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Facet fuel pumps are the way to go although I used to find they failed after about two years.
Avoid the "solid state" version like the plague, they won't self prime properly unless they are below the tank and within a foot or two of the tank. A better long term solution would be to fit an in-tank pump, plenty of aftermarket options and they tend to be more reliable, just make sure you get a carb version ! I have no idea what changed in manufacture but none of the interruptor pumps (like the Facet) seem to last very long these days. I had one on a 1980 Range Rover that lasted the best part of 20 years before it died. the longest a new Facet pump has lasted was 2-3 years moving to EFi systems resolved that problem for me ! As a temporary fix BTW you may find that giving the pump a sharp tap with a spanner when the ignition is turned on will get it running again for a while. I once drove 60 miles with a pump like that, the pump was mounted on the underside of the driver's sweatbox so every time the engine started to die I kicked the seatbox and it burst into life again - ended up with a massive bruise on my heel but got home  |
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27th Jul 2012 12:09pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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Dave
I have had the pump apart and it is a serviceable unit. There are two versions, 1 has points and 1 is electric (mine has points). The points were quite black so I have cleaned everything up and gave it a quick test and it seems to be working. I am going to order new points from SU and give that a try Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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28th Jul 2012 5:09pm |
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| Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171
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So I changed the points in the pump as it is a rebuilidable SU unit and presto - things work great. Rebuilt it in the garage then spent a rainy evening outside installing. Went quite smooth actually!
 Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Series II in pieces
1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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10th Aug 2012 12:34pm |
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