Home > Puma (Tdci) > Exhaust question |
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bell-auto-services Member Since: 08 Jul 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 2232 |
Dont go to large a diameter as the back pressure lost does have side effects.
Pete |
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24th Apr 2012 8:58pm |
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Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 610 |
James is quite an accomplished Equine Dental Technician (Horse dentist), and only sells exhausts as a part time hobby. His systems used to be made by Magnex (to his recipe), until they went pop a few years ago, so not sure who makes them now? I badgered him for years on the downsides of 3" bore exhausts, as at the time that was his USP. As Pete says, too big is not a good thing! The larger the bore, the slower the gas flow, and the deeper the resonance. This also causes excessive heat soak, and with the reduction in back pressure, can overspeed the turbocharger resulting in a rapid failure. I guess you can only stomach so many come backs, and so I assume he's now gone to 2 1/2" bore as I suggested he should have done many years ago. Not sure about his other USP which was his movable exhaust hangars. Not a single flange joint on these either, as they're all slip joints. That's not a good thing if you consider the shape of a Defender exhaust, and the way it naturally falls when on the floor. You can multiply this effect several times when exposed to the vibrations from the diesel engine, and so if the U clamps are not tightened up enough, the sections of exhaust can slip. Another issues with slip joints is they have a tenancy to blow/leak exhaust gasses, and so need a sealing compound to help them do their job. ALIVE exhaust systems have always had flange joints (Our USP). When we launched our exhausts many years ago, nobody else in the LR aftermarket made their exhausts in this way, but now several have adopted this method, mostly due to the reasons above. It does make them more expensive to make (around £20 for every pair of flanges), but they bolt together only one way, and will not move, or leak, once put together. Our exhausts are available in a number of variations too, with single or twin silencer options. |
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26th Apr 2012 6:02am |
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K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 |
That'll be the 'opposition' blown out of the water and put well and truly in his place then?...
Liked the sales pitch, wonder if James needs a hand removing the blade? In mitigation with the decat section yours works out nearly three hundred pounds more expensive than the 'Horse Dentist.' 'Pays your money takes your choice' springs unwittingly to the forefront of my mind! If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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26th Apr 2012 10:05am |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
A bit off topic but whilst there are a few exhaust experts on, as I'm quite a skinflint could I dispose of the cat in my Td5 downpipe by "drilling" it out of the existing pipe instead of purchasing a replacement non cat pipe?
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26th Apr 2012 1:22pm |
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bell-auto-services Member Since: 08 Jul 2007 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 2232 |
Yes this is possibile though you may need a long masonry type drill bit to reach the cat internals. Or if you do decide to buy one you can for £65 ish including the vat and delivery made to fit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DISCO...43aeb96013
Pete |
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26th Apr 2012 1:29pm |
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JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 |
Thanks for the reply, just throwing ideas about, I've got a mid box replacement on and it certainly helps the turbo spool up quicker and with so, so many things to spend money on I am looking at the cheaper effective mods that can be done
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26th Apr 2012 1:37pm |
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Harryb450 Member Since: 11 Dec 2011 Location: over yonder Posts: 283 |
discovery 1s had all slip joints apart from 1 and as for them not sealing, ive never had any mither with them, apart from trying to get the apart
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27th Apr 2012 6:28pm |
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Porny Site Sponsor Member Since: 31 Aug 2009 Location: Sutton Coldfield - West Midlands Posts: 809 |
I’m sorry but I disagree slightly…. Over speeding can be an issue on all turbo's, but especially FGT with a normal mechanical actuator. However, as we are talking about Pumas' - they use a VNT and a REA (rotary electric actuator)… in this case within sections of the calibration there is open loop overspeed protection maps built in. If you put a drainpipe on the back of a VNT, the ECU wont obviously see the change – and will react after the fact not before – so we get spikes of over speed and bad boost control – really we need to changing the calibration and boost govern principles. However, as to what effect this will have will depends on what you are trying to achieve – are we talking something that we are trying to get monster power from, or a long term high mileage vehicle? Really, with regards to a VNT you really need to look into expansion limits and expansion ratio’s…. but that is a different subject matter. Going back to exhaust size, downstream of the exhaust turbine want you want minimum back pressure. Taken from a document I was reading the other day:
The less pressure downstream of the turbine the better. This reduces the time-to-boost (maximizes boost response) and will improve engine VE throughout the rev range. Hence why we remove CAT’s etc . There are some other considerations to do with exhaust size when the exhaust comes out of the turbo, but in all honesty a lot of the theory around this only relates to FGT and not VNT. Don’t get me wrong, for this application, I’m not saying you need a 5” exhaust with a LED ring, but a lot of people do jump in with quick answers, especially without the skill and experience to back this up. Running a 3” exhaust on a otherwise standard Puma won’t really gain you anything, but when you start tuning/playing with the calibrations, and fitting none standard turbo chargers then there can be a need to go bigger than standard and/or change the design to make the most of other modifications. Ian |
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23rd May 2012 6:31am |
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Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 610 |
Double post.
Last edited by Alive Tuning on 23rd May 2012 8:22am. Edited 1 time in total |
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23rd May 2012 7:16am |
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Alive Tuning Member Since: 01 Mar 2010 Location: Louth Posts: 610 |
Thanks for the dig, Ian.
Although you rightly point out that this particular thread is related to the puma, the principles of exhaust size and construction are much the same across all turbocharged engines, and so my points were meant to be a generalisation of benefit to all. Of course, a lower back pressure will have benefits, in allowing the turbocharger to spool up quicker, and this is indeed why we fit decat downpipes, and remove the bypass type silencers in favor of a more free flowing mid pipe design. Regarding the bore of the exhaust, this should be sized depentent upon peak exhaust gas flow, to ensure a rapid expulsion of gas (and heat) from the engine. 2 1/2" bore is adequate for all but the most highly tuned Td5 models, where 2 3/4" is required. The size of the bore most certainly does have an effect on noise and harshness.
Not in the Puma Defender 2.4 Calibration there isn't! The only turbocharger related open loop control maps are to control the REA with calculated approx aerodynamic force on VNT, and Demand position for VNT actuator in %. All values in this map are set to null, as there is no overspeed protection, other than the turbo pressure limiters on that model. A VNT turbo can be destroyed through overspeed as easily as a FGT, and often do. Usually as a result of a sticking actuator. |
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23rd May 2012 8:20am |
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Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015 |
Why are people bothering with exhausts.... you might as well just have a short tube dumping the exhaust fumes to the ground from the turbo... about 3' of 7" pipe will do that.... or even better invert the turbo and drill a hole in the bonnet and have a 1' pipe like a tractor.... defiantly no back pressure then!!
I have been modifying vehicles for many a year now (granted all were petrol) but considering 99.9% of Pumas are running standard turbos, exhaust manifolds and heads I can't see there being much point in increasing the diameter of the exhaust over 2.5". Yes if you bore out/ flow the ports, larger valves, tubular manifold and then a bigger turbo you can flow more gas, and therefore will need a larger diameter exhaust to expel the gasses. Does anyone know how much the standard Puma head/ manifold can flow?..... I doubt it is more than a 2.5" exhaust. How to join exhausts.... I have experience of both and personally I prefer the flange type. Easier to assemble, easier to seal, and much easier to do maintenance on them. But on the down side they do tend to cost a little more. So if you aren't mechanically minded and someone else i fitting it for a fixed price go for what is cheapest. I had my centre section off this last weekend, and started it up to see the sound (Just a de-cat from the turbo) and I loved how it sounds.... just need to get rid of one centre box and I am sorted to hear music in my ears. Glyn |
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23rd May 2012 1:14pm |
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Sticky Member Since: 07 Dec 2008 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 245 |
I also use the Griffin exhaust on my 110 Puma, it made an immediate impact on driving especially those low speed gear two and three changes. I found with the new exhaust I could stay in third for longer.
In fact I am more pleased with the effect the exhaust change had than the tuning, although removing the speed limiter was fantastic. It is always interesting to see a vendor laying into someone else's design, I would love to see Jame's response about the Alive system too. |
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25th May 2012 11:10am |
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The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459 |
Yes thats how I feel too |
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25th May 2012 12:03pm |
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T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101 |
i'd like a screamer pipe on mine
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23rd Jun 2012 6:50pm |
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