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Icelandy



Member Since: 27 Feb 2008
Location: Hathern
Posts: 54

England 1985 Defender 110 Other PU Stornoway Grey
Stainless Steel??
Is it worth changing all the bolts for bonnet, doors etc on a new defender to stainless steel ones in order to prevent electrolysis? Anyone got any views? If a job is worth doing....

Its worth doing well....

So get someone who knows what they are doing! Smile
Post #1474 27th Feb 2008 12:05pm
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Landy nut



Member Since: 22 Dec 2007
Location: In hiding
Posts: 154

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 90 Td5 PU Epsom Green
If you start going down this route, it can turn into an obsession!!!

First it starts with the hinges, nuts and bolts etc. Then, you start thinking about what else goes. Usual thoughts are the doors first and then body cappings. See, you can see what I mean about dangerous!!!

Apparently, the later Td5 doors and Tdci ones are pressed frames and skins rather than welded ones, so they are reckoned to be a lot sturdier and resistant to electrolytic corrosion between the steel and aluminium (they still leak like a mother though!!!). I have to admit, I did wonder what was different when I bought my new one as they looked a lot more rounded.

I know it is part of the character, but I dont get why they cant just do what they did with the rear doors and make them from thin steel and zinc plate them. They did that with some of the Td5 models rear opening doors (CSW, hard top etc). I had it on my 54 plate XS CSW 90 before I chopped it in. I am sure it would cost a lot less than using expensive aluminium (as the price is high at the moment) and I cant think the weight gain would be significant.
It would also stop that awful panel distortion you get as your Defender gets older and the aluminium stretches and bends.

Sorry, getting a bit off track here. In answer to your question, I would say it is a good idea, but make sure you get a decent grade of stainless steel. The only thing to remember is that the captive welded nuts and the small piece of steel they are welded to inside the door are still steel. Not sure if there is anything that can be done about that. There are a couple of companies who make whole kits for you, including hinges etc, so you might want to have a look at them. I know I saw an advert for a company who make all sorts of nice things for LR's in stainless steel. Me thinks it was in a recent LRO. I'll have a look tonight and get back to you.

Landy nut
Post #1481 27th Feb 2008 1:32pm
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JSG



Member Since: 12 Jul 2007
Location: Berkshire
Posts: 2412

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Puma door skins are now steel not Ally.
Post #1482 27th Feb 2008 2:19pm
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AndrewS



Member Since: 10 Apr 2007
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3707

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 130 Puma 2.2 SW Rimini Red
Re: Stainless Steel??
Icelandy wrote:
Is it worth changing all the bolts for bonnet, doors etc on a new defender to stainless steel ones in order to prevent electrolysis? Anyone got any views?


The bolts on mine look like they are galvanised although I have not checked properly. I think the doors and hinges are also galvanised. If this is the case and you introduce stainless steel into the equation it may cause more issues than leaving everything standard. I know in my business of fixing water tanks Stainless Steel suffers quite a lot when Galv is introduced into the equation.

But then again I could be wrong.
Post #1484 27th Feb 2008 3:10pm
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