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I'm confused but would like to know because it blimmen dangerous when your lights just go and you have to travel a long way home...Think I just drove mine back on full beam and in the dark when traffic came at me 
Couldn't stop anywhere for 10 miles along country lanes as I had a trailer on the back 
| JSG Member Since: 12 Jul 2007 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2412   
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You use the switch just to power the relay and the relay then switches a 12v feed to the lamps - therefore the relay takes the current and not the switch. John http://www.hampshire4x4response.co.uk 2011 Tdci 110 CSW XS |
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6th Feb 2012 11:51am |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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Ah good
 Bring your pliers to Billing John  |
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6th Feb 2012 12:01pm |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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might also be worth checking the feed to the relay and maybe upping the wire .. where's Daniele when you need him ? (he's probably done this already)
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6th Feb 2012 12:20pm |
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| CarlW Member Since: 21 Sep 2010 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 53 
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Am planning to get round to fitting a relay myself at some point and my plan was to see if I could pick a feed for the relay up straight off the back of the alternator using a heavyish wire and an inline fuse - that way the lights will get the full 13.8volts when the engine is running. It could have an impact on bulb life but they should be quite a bit brighter. MY11 110 XS Station Wagon in Stornoway
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6th Feb 2012 12:32pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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Zagato, dont have a picture nor do i have a defender at the moment, once its back home i'll take a picture of how i did it.
It was also a "field repair" so i put the relay next to the switch using the OEM cabling. Bigger cables etc all well and ok but seriously if you notice a big difference it probably will be more related to your earth connection (will be new and better conducting) than to the losses in the feed cable. 1.5mm2 cable is adequate for that distance and power of standard bulbs. (feed is 2.5 as it also powers the parking lights and the full beam) If there is a problem with drop on the feed line it might be worth checking out if you get full voltage to your fuse box anyway. Old connections lose conductivity so instead of putting in new wires cleaning old contacts might solve the issue. just my 2cents  |
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6th Feb 2012 2:24pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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delete, double post
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6th Feb 2012 2:25pm |
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| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5012
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6th Feb 2012 4:01pm |
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| AP90 Member Since: 04 May 2012 Location: London Posts: 13  
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Hi Gents
I am about to pick up a 2010 90 Puma Are the headlights still wired straight through the stalk switch or have they discovered relays at Land Rover by 2010. I am slightly concerned about this and if there are no relays present, it'll be one of my first jobs Many thanks Ash |
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8th May 2012 7:31pm |
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| bm52 Member Since: 04 Apr 2010 Location: Kent Posts: 2189 
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I believe they are. that is why i spent £18 on a spare Lucas switch, especially as i will be doing a load of miles around France soon. I can then repair the dead one and then keep it as a spare. Mind you i am under warranty until next Jan but better safe than sorry. BM52 |
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8th May 2012 8:25pm |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436
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Not trying to be the hardhead here BM52 but a switch will burn out after somewhere 4-6hours of continues burning. (not total sum of hours it was switched on) Even a new one.
I would even say the plastic starts getting weak after 3 hours and the contact slowly sinks in, so 2x 3 hours of driving and you CAN have the switch go mad. just put in a relay and save the trouble and nuisance. We had it in winter during the evening peak (so in darkness) on the A3 in Frankfurt, in the rain..... not the best of places to start replacing a switch. Imagine your family in the back of the car; wont give a lot of confidence explaining them you're still under warranty so not to worry about the trucks raging by every 4.5 seconds shaking your car. 
AP90; still the same over switch / no relay for the 2010 as far as i know (even the 2.2 is still the same) |
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8th May 2012 9:31pm |
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| AP90 Member Since: 04 May 2012 Location: London Posts: 13
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Thank you guys
I shall be purchasing a couple of relays. Can't believe they put that kind of amperage through those silly leaf switches Ah well |
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8th May 2012 10:17pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
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That switch is part of the reason I suggest people wire roof lights completely separate from main beam switch.
Yes that is illegal for road use but does give you a completely independent light circuit, so a good safety backup system. Brendan |
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8th May 2012 10:34pm |
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| jerseyman Member Since: 21 Jul 2009 Location: Jersey Posts: 279 |
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8th May 2012 10:43pm |
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| SteveS Member Since: 05 Oct 2010 Location: Devon & Berkshire Posts: 388 
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When I installed my roof lights (with relay circuit) I had two switches put in the circuit switch 1 - 0 = switch two/1 = always on and switch 2 0= off/1 = as beam/dip. This gives you the ability to have the roof lights light up on beam/flash in normal road conditions but also allows for flood lighting (camp site/fields etc) when the main headlight are off. or completely off altogether As relayed the switch losses/serial control are negligible. Switches occupy two blank slots on the dash - can set and forget for the most part (used illuminated/latching rear heater switches |
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9th May 2012 7:07pm |
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