 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Fitting a Detroit locker |
 
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| MrFlips Member Since: 27 May 2009 Location: Cardiff Posts: 682   
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Oooh - I have to admit I'll be hugely interested to hear how you get on with that Blackwolf. Peter
2008 SWB Truck Cab 1952 80" Soft top |
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4th Apr 2012 9:52pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731  
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Now this is getting very interesting
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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4th Apr 2012 11:38pm |
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| ZeDefender Member Since: 15 Sep 2011 Location: Munich Posts: 4731
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Deleted, due to me repeating myself... as usual
 Tell someone you love them today because life is short.
But shout it at them in German because life is also terrifying and confusing... |
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4th Apr 2012 11:38pm |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2411  
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Detroit lockers are now much softer (less clunking) than before and nothing is prone to fail. ARB is versatile, but you can get a fault on the compressor, fittings, selenoids or carrier seal (unlikely).
Just to confuse you a bit more. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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5th Apr 2012 12:07am |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580 
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Have an ARB locker in rear axle of red 110
Unless you are doing competitions remember axle lockers can get you further into the mire. I try to use ours to get out of minor mire before getting completely stuck in deep mire. Brendan |
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5th Apr 2012 5:38am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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Blackwolf - are they easy to fit ? DIY job or more complex ? |
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5th Apr 2012 6:42am |
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| tatra805 Member Since: 16 Aug 2011 Location: Dolany Posts: 436  
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Well,… didn’t want to react, way too many discussions on the net where you can find all opinions and discussions. As i’m in the same boat considering lockers hereby my view and experiences. First of all I have first hand experience with full lockers, truetracs, Torsen and Quaiffe and LSD. Both on road and off road. Both front/back and or combinations. I give my opinion based on my experiences, I am not a prophet nor do I intend to lecture anybody. 
I just don’t understand how a general “ARB is best “ can be the answer to individual needs. Yes ARB is a good locker and the most common one, but also the most common to be installed without real purpose or real need. 
I wont go into quality issues, each one has/had some so no point in trying to find out which is best from that point. Technical design is something else and there I would really look into to Ashcroft lockers as alternative for ARB and truetrac. (I’m not connected to them in any way, but I have experiences with both and do understand the differences of the ashcrofts which look as they solve the issues from a technical point) To me the purpose of the locker should define which one is best suited for you, AND again an ARB is not always the right answer. Another point to consider is if you want preventive or corrective action from the locker. LSD’s, traction control and manual lockers are corrective, with the benefit of the manual locker that you can anticipate and engage before driving a section. Iow they react once traction is lost. Torque biasing lockers are preventive, they react BEFORE traction is lost. This is fractions of time but in reality I can assure you it makes a big difference. Google the functional principle of all these diffs before deciding. Study it. Google truetrac or Ashcroft + Traction Control and you’ll get all the explanation you can get, this seams to be the best combination and described as the benefits of a full locker without the drawbacks. The blacklandy forum has various long topics on this also (in german). So look at each product in 2 situations: a. while still moving and avoiding getting to b b. once stranded/stuck This is an important point, as driving long distances with a full locker engaged as preventive measure is not a good idea. Eg, I am pulling trailers in mountains driving on snow, a full locker does not help me. I would be drifting the back if engaged too early or not able to steer when front engaged. And once standing a full locker will in many cases only wiggle the ass of the car but not overcome the inertia of the trailer, or even the car alone as there is not enough GRIP. So for me, I want to keep moving as long as possible BEFORE getting stuck. Torque biased all the way for me. If I would be competing then I go full locker, but this also involves strengthening of the other drivetrain components. (ask how I know) I know it is easy to follow the group but consider your needs carefully. I went for a truetrac on my discovery before and not a Detroit locker on the back as I found people having problems with the disengaging when turning (eg roudabout) depending on load on the locker (Accelerating too early on a roundabout would leave the locker locked and spin the car on wet tarmac) Also little assurance what the trailerweight on the back axle would have as influence on this (one says better, other say worse). For the 110 I’ll take the ashcrofts torque biasing diffs as truetracs have quality issues as reported on the web. This and TC will give me all I need and always, also in an emergency situation, also on wet tarmac driving, also during all my daily driving etc etc. While an ARB would sit switched off 99.9999% of the time. Just my 2 cents.  |
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5th Apr 2012 11:02am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17344 
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Yes, very easy provided that you have a reasonable level of competence. My front diff took me a little under 3 hours start to finish, working solo out of doors in the rain in December (and it was dark for 2 or the 3 hours, and bl**dy cold); I was working out of necessity since my original 2-pinion diff had disintegrated. Doing the job again, in daytime when it's not raining I reckon that 1.1/2 hours should be ample. For the front, you need to disconnect the drag link and remove the tie rod, jack the front axle so the wheels are perhaps 1/2" clear of the ground, drain the axle oil, then unbolt the two swivel/hub assemblies and withdraw them just enough to get the halfshafts out of the diff pinions, about 3". This can be done without disturbing the brakes, and provided that you have only raised the axle a fraction you can rest the wheels on the ground to take the weight. You will need to support the steering arms on the hubs however (wooden blocks ideal) to stop the hub rotating and straining the brake lines. Then unbolt the front end of the propshaft (good opportunity to remove it completely to grease it properly), unbolt the diff carrier from the axle, and remove. Reassembly is the reverse of the dismantling procedure. Getting the the halfshafts back in the pinions is a bit fiddly (especially in December, the dark, and the rain) since you are lifting a complete swivel/hub/wheel assembly but is possible. The old spade-under-the-tyre trick helps enormously. Back axle is easier still of course, and takes less than half an hour (if on alloys jack up rear axle and remove wheels (not necessary on steels), drain oil, pull halfshafts out 3" from hubs, unbolt rear end of propshaft, unbolt diff carrier and remove. Reverse procedure to reassemble). Note: the above assumes that you have bought a preasembled diff and carrier, ready to fit. It is quite possible to build your own by just buying the diff and building it into your existing carrier (I did this with the two ARBs on my Series 1) but it will require more tools, including some precision measuring instruments, and a higher level of engineering expertise to do a good job. If you need to renew the pinion bearings you will need a selection of shims to set the pinion protrusion plus gauge blocks or the special height gauge. Even if not putting new pinion bearings in, you will need to blue up the crownwheel and set the engagement correctly, and the process though not difficult is not really for non-engineers. I would strongly recommend buying a complete assembly from Ashcroft Transmissions since you are saved all the hassle, you get a properly set-up diff with all new bearings, and can opt for a heavy-duty crownwheel and pinion as well if you want. Ashcroft Transmission do a very good deal on the px of your old diff (I got £90 off for mine). I should probably point out that I have no connection with Ashcroft transmission except as an extremely satisfied customer. |
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5th Apr 2012 12:49pm |
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| LRSoffroad Member Since: 15 Feb 2012 Location: Doncaster Posts: 189 
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I have an ARB in the rear of two tone , never liked otheres as the lack of control ( im a controle freek
 ) need to play with buttons , also for bullet proof i have a Maxi-drive aswell in my other truck |
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5th Apr 2012 9:07pm |
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| GREENI Member Since: 22 Aug 2010 Location: staffs Posts: 10379
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I had Maxidrives in my old Ibex..... Parts are rare as a rare thing nowadays. As you may know
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5th Apr 2012 9:13pm |
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| LRSoffroad Member Since: 15 Feb 2012 Location: Doncaster Posts: 189
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Greeni i can only put my hands on kits,, 8 kits if you want a set
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5th Apr 2012 9:15pm |
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