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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Replacing Td5 clutch
My TD5 110 is going in to get the clutch done next week and I am lending a hand.
Off the top of my head...

Prop shafts off
Starter off (if bolted to the gearbox)
Transmission tunnel cover off
any sensors unplugged
Gearbox and T/C slid back
Clutch out
Dual mass flywheel off.

On the shopping list so far is

Clutch (5 piece Valeo)

I have been asked to get:
Heavy duty clutch fork
Clips that hold the various bits together(release bearing and clutch fork?)
Dual mass flywheel bolts

I might as well see if I can get stainless bolts to replace those on the transmission tunnel

Any other bits? hints tips etc? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #132593 19th Mar 2012 6:13pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
The clutch fork is a huge cast item (same as the V8 5 speed uses), so there is no HD version... it's plenty HD enough, unlike the pressed tin Tdi one.

I need to do my clutch in the summer. Might opt to pull the engine out instead, as i've not got a pit or ramps to work under, but do have an engine crane.

Your clutch slave cylinder will need to come off too, as that bolts into the bellhousing, and unplug the crank position sensor (might pay to take it off, only one small bolt, to save it getting bashed by the flywheel)
Post #132600 19th Mar 2012 6:33pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Ahh right, I thought the clutch fork was something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330486580269 (EDIT this is not for a TD5)

I forgot about the slave cylinder and the Crank sensor

The clutch change will be done on the floor 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock


Last edited by excossack on 19th Mar 2012 8:24pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #132604 19th Mar 2012 6:44pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5699

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
If you are taking flywheel off, I would change rear oil seal, don't ask "why", as this is a very painful topic at the moment. I would also change slave and master cylinders, and spigot bush, (just split old one to get it out).

And from personal experience, I would seal top of bell housing to engine block with silli sealer. This would stop contamination from FPR failures, and leaky rocker box gaskets.

Don't forget to disconnect the breathers for both boxes.

Andy
Post #132632 19th Mar 2012 7:49pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Rear main oil seal.. Could be a good idea. Dont know if its leaking or not.
Breathers - cheers. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #132635 19th Mar 2012 7:52pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092

United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
excossack wrote:
Ahh right, I thought the clutch fork was something like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330486580269 (EDIT this is not for a TD5)



^^^^^ That's for a Tdi, you can see it's pressed out of thin metal (hence the welded on "HD" bit)


This is a Td5 one:

Post #132736 20th Mar 2012 6:51am
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
So really its probably not worth swapping the arm?


If I go for the rear oil seal, will I have to drop the engine oil? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #132753 20th Mar 2012 7:54am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5699

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I would put a new arm in, or certainly get a price for one.

Don't think you will have to remove oil to change the seal.

I would change everything that you can whilst in there.

My boxes have been off more times than I care to remember, (at least five times), fitted new clutch a few times, bushes, arm, rod clips, DMF, and now my rear oil seal is leaking causing clutch slip AGAIN. So I would say do it well, and do it only once.

Andy
Post #132834 20th Mar 2012 1:36pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
It does make sense to do the job once.
Spoke to LR
Clutch fork £53.83 Part number 576137
Floor transmission tunnel screws self tappers 14x3/4 0.91p each x 6 part number AB614061L
DMF bolts x 8 £1.35 part number ER6781
Rear oil seal £18.97 part number LUF100420 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #132850 20th Mar 2012 2:29pm
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Zinke



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Scunthorpe
Posts: 670

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 90 Td5 HT Epsom Green
Take the engine out not the gearbox, much much easier to do, more room to work and much more room to do the flywheel.
Post #132860 20th Mar 2012 3:49pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
The clutch arrived today...Bloody hell its heavy!! the DMF weighs a ton! 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #133463 22nd Mar 2012 6:02pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5843

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Parts ordered from LR Dealer. Reading the Haynes manual, to replace the rear main oil seal I need to remove the sump?

and according to the book, I need to tighten the DMF bolts to
Stage 1 - 40nm
Stage 2 - angle tighten a further 90 deg? Is that the same as 1/4 turn? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #133859 23rd Mar 2012 10:02pm
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