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rasmussen



Member Since: 13 Mar 2012
Location: Nice
Posts: 46
France 
Drive without rear driveshaft
My second trip in my new 110 (four years old, 2008) was from Paris to Nice. I am in the process of moving so the truck was full of furnitures. After 300 problem free kilometres (at 120 km/h) a high smack and violent vibrations occurred. I immediately clutch out and gently applied breaks. On the hard shoulder I discovered that the rear driveshaft rear connection (flanged yoke was broke) I disconnected the driveshaft and continued the trip with the difflock engaged.

At low speed (below 60 km/h) there was some noisy rattling sounds from what I think was the handbreak drum. (Like it was shacking back and forth) Also in gear change. But on constant speed above 60 km/h the car was behaving “normal”.

Now:
Have I damaged something?
Is it perfect OK to drive on only the front driveshaft. I drove about 700 km! Is that a record or just is business as usual?
What should I check after fitting a new connection?
Should I change the whole driveshaft or only the yoke connection?
Is there anyone who have an in-depth understanding of the inner parts in the hand break drum and/or transfer gearbox that believe I have damaged anything?

By the way, is it easy to fit a new driveshaft?


And at last:
How can this happened with such a “new” car?
Post #132127 17th Mar 2012 7:15pm
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10382
United Kingdom 
Be very careful that the drum does not fall off, as it is held on with only one screw!!!!!

A drive shaft is very easy to swap, two spanners of same size 9/16 or 14mm Whistle
It sounds like a u-joint has broke, which need checking pretty regularly if used off road, especially if it has had a 'lift', otherwise, in my eyes it should be picked up on a service at least.. Make sure it is checked with handbrake off, though obviously make sure the thing can't run over you!
Post #132133 17th Mar 2012 7:28pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092
United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
If ever i've blown a rear diff or halfshaft (quite regularly when I first got a 90, and couldn't afford luxurys like 4 pinion diffs or ARBs) we'd just remove the rear shaft, BUT..... put the 4 nuts back onto the handbrake drum studs.... you'll need to space them out slightly (just 4 slightly larger nuts will do, or a handfull of washers) to make sure that they pull up tight.
Post #132240 18th Mar 2012 8:24am
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rasmussen



Member Since: 13 Mar 2012
Location: Nice
Posts: 46
France 
Thank you very much for your replies! Highly appreciated! Razz

I would like to upload a picture of the broken part. Is that possible to do here?

Finding the correct part.
For my Defender 110 (1986 model) I had a complete parts catalogue. I cannot find that for the Defender Puma? What is the solution? How are you identify the correct part number?

Cheers,
Bow down
Post #132265 18th Mar 2012 10:16am
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Denis



Member Since: 28 Dec 2010
Location: prairie
Posts: 58
Russia 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
part numbers here http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic5282.html Thumbs Up
Cheers Puma 110
Post #132278 18th Mar 2012 11:53am
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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756
Wales 
From researching a new prop shaft for my 110 I came to the conclusion that the rear prop from a PUMA is identical to the rear prop from a defender 110 with disk braked rear salisbury axle. Both are 111cm and have all the same bolt holes. Might help you to find one more cheaply. Keep an eye on Ebay though. I just bought a brand new genuine Puma 110 rear prop for £52....
Post #132290 18th Mar 2012 12:39pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069
2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Would be interesting to know if your propshaft had grease nipples or not (0, 2 or 3)

Some went out of the factory with missing nipples, some props were "greased for life" and had no nipples and some had the regular 3 nipples

(also interesting "Nipples" is not censored)
Post #132294 18th Mar 2012 12:48pm
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diesel_jim



Member Since: 13 Oct 2008
Location: hiding
Posts: 6092
United Kingdom 2006 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
bpman wrote:

(also interesting "Nipples" is not censored)



Fnaar fnaar..... Laughing Laughing Laughing
Post #132298 18th Mar 2012 1:30pm
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rasmussen



Member Since: 13 Mar 2012
Location: Nice
Posts: 46
France 
Mountain_man wrote:
From researching a new prop shaft for my 110 I came to the conclusion that the rear prop from a PUMA is identical to the rear prop from a defender 110 with disk braked rear salisbury axle. Both are 111cm and have all the same bolt holes. Might help you to find one more cheaply. Keep an eye on Ebay though. I just bought a brand new genuine Puma 110 rear prop for £52....




Arrow One of my friends have a brand new propshaft. Part number is FRC8389.
Is that the one that can be used for my 110 Puma Question



Cheers,
Post #132937 20th Mar 2012 8:16pm
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bpman



Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069
2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
front propshafts have not changed since 300tdi but rear props have - you'll need to check Thumbs Up
Post #132971 20th Mar 2012 9:15pm
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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756
Wales 
Puma 110 rear propshaft is part number LR010463 (110cm long)

The 300 tdi one which should also fit is FTC3905 (110cm long)

FRC8389 is a 200 tdi one and is too short (101 cm long)
Post #132981 20th Mar 2012 10:05pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665
United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
If the vehicle's out of warranty (assume it is!), the what about one of these:

http://www.gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/page36.html

I had been looking at these to replace the front prop shaft on my Discovery 2 (because of the double-cardon issues).

The company does supply the whole lot (incl the "specal" bolts).



They look the business! Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #133643 23rd Mar 2012 6:45am
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rasmussen



Member Since: 13 Mar 2012
Location: Nice
Posts: 46
France 
Thank you very much for all your replies! Razz
I have ordered the LR010463 propshaft from paddocks.

By the way (another stupid question Embarassed ) why is the manual mention:
“2. NOTE: Mark the rear driveshaft to parking brake flange.” And
“3. NOTE: Mark the rear driveshaft to rear differential flange.” ?

When I removed the driveshaft, while on the hard shoulder, I did not mark the shafts connections. Is this an issue? I presume that the miss alignment or rotational orientation of the two flanges (called phased in the manual) is correct when I receive driveshaft? In other words how do I insure that I have the correct phase or correct aligned when I fit it on? Question

Thank you very much in anticipation. Bow down
Post #133681 23rd Mar 2012 10:21am
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Mountain_man



Member Since: 09 Dec 2011
Location: Right side of Offas Dyke
Posts: 756
Wales 
Don't worry about it. Your new prop shaft will only fit in 2 positions, either will be fine. The phase issues are only important if you pull the 2 halves apart. It may be that the original prop was dynamically balanced on the vehicle which is why the book suggests it goes back on in exactly the same place but since you are replacing it then I cannot see that it will be an issue. The new prop "should" be correctly phased and balanced out of the box.
Post #133700 23rd Mar 2012 12:06pm
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rasmussen



Member Since: 13 Mar 2012
Location: Nice
Posts: 46
France 
Mountain_man wrote:
Don't worry about it. Your new prop shaft will only fit in 2 positions, either will be fine. The phase issues are only important if you pull the 2 halves apart. It may be that the original prop was dynamically balanced on the vehicle which is why the book suggests it goes back on in exactly the same place but since you are replacing it then I cannot see that it will be an issue. The new prop "should" be correctly phased and balanced out of the box.





Thank you for your answer, which align with what I was presuming. Wink (I just want to be sure Thumbs Up )

Cheers,
Post #133708 23rd Mar 2012 12:40pm
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