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bm52



Member Since: 04 Apr 2010
Location: Kent
Posts: 2189

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Havana
Thrash or not to thrash?
Just a thought from the New Critter thread.

Over the years i have heard many thoughts on running in a diesel engine and subsequent driving. When i bought mine it had 3k on it and i drove it norminally, usually changing up around 2.5k revs and don't usually go over 3k revs. seldom hit 4k revs. i generally drive this way to use the torque rather than 'rev the nuts' of it.

But, i have heard some very experienced mechanics say drive gently for the first 1k then hard for the next few thousand and you will end up with a responsive free reving engine.

Is there a right or wrong way to run in a diesel and then general driving?

Or is it all a load of wive's tales and tosh! Confused BM52
Post #116661 18th Jan 2012 11:01pm
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kingofthesparks



Member Since: 06 Jan 2011
Location: Very close to Watford gap services , northants
Posts: 987

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Thrash it from the crate , under warranty for 3 years

Mines been thrashed for over 200,000 miles


Last edited by kingofthesparks on 18th Jan 2012 11:06pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #116662 18th Jan 2012 11:05pm
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Ed2



Member Since: 11 Oct 2010
Location: North Essex
Posts: 79

England 
I shall be interested in your replys, I've only done 300 miles in mine so far. (gently) Very Happy
Post #116663 18th Jan 2012 11:05pm
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T1G UP



Member Since: 08 Dec 2009
Location: Bath
Posts: 3101

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
as long as its hot, don't rely on the water guage then drive it hard. to run in its high revs low load warming up and cooling down are very important
Post #116666 18th Jan 2012 11:16pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
Warmed up first then just get on and drive it as you would at any other time. Don't mollycoddle it, when it's new there is a warranty, there's your insurance if it goes bang Wink Many years ago I took on a new job as a shepherd on a large estate and the chap who had just retired had a new series 3. It was nearly 12mths old when I took over and it took me 3wks to get it to go above 35mph, I had to keep checking that the gearbox hadn't been put in back to front and it was in low box Neutral After about 6mths it behaved as it should and when it was replaced it was a cracking drive, it's replacement, one of those new fangled hi-cap 110's was used from the start of it's life.

When we used to get a new tractor we'd try and time it for ploughing duties, long stretches of pulling hard at just over half revs, sometimes a tractor would be purchased at silaging time and be thrashed on the road and spend ages idling as the kids driving would be just sat in it listening to the radio with the air-con on, so either flat out or nothing. The one that had been worked under load and used would generally have less breakdowns and problems than the one that had had an erratic start to life. So from new I'd prefer to see one used than played around with.
Post #116672 19th Jan 2012 12:09am
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BigMike



Member Since: 13 Jul 2010
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 2253

United Kingdom 
You can rev it as much as you want, just don't labour the engine in a high gear, that's what does the damage, not revs. I always sigh when I hear people mistaking revs for "load". It's far better to go up a long steep hill in a lower gear at higher revs than a higher gear at low revs. At higher revs it's kinder to the engine, the water pump is spinning faster etc. Ok don't hold it on the red line but if you don't use the rev range you're not going to end up with a great engine, particularly if you baby it.
Post #116720 19th Jan 2012 11:24am
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Gareth



Member Since: 12 Dec 2011
Location: Bramhall
Posts: 1101

England 
An interesting point to think about, concerning my D3. It was thrashed daily from new for 77k miles, at which point I ceased to use it for work and my wife started using it for shopping.

While I used it, the engine never missed a beat, and never used any oil or water. Now in the past 2 months its had a turbo actuator and 2 egr valves! The thing is sooting up due to lack of a good thrashing.

So, when i get it back from the garage, its going to get thrashed every week to keep it clean Twisted Evil 2021 Defender 110 X-Dynamic HSE D300 MHEV
1966 S2a 109 aka Betsy
1968 S2a 88 aka Bob
2014 Jaaaag F Type 3.0 Supercharged.
Post #116722 19th Jan 2012 11:30am
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GREENI



Member Since: 22 Aug 2010
Location: staffs
Posts: 10381

United Kingdom 
I did a TDG 5 star course in a Class 1 artic, I got better mpg by holding the revs longer, it didn't half 'p' the instructor off!

Treat your Defender like you treat your women, be nice at first (up to temperature).........then just be 'you' Thumbs Up
Post #116729 19th Jan 2012 12:11pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
Re: Thrash or not to thrash?
[quote="bm52"]
I drove it norminally, usually changing up around 2.5k revs and don't usually go over 3k revs. seldom hit 4k revs. i generally drive this way to use the torque rather than 'rev the nuts' of it.

/quote]

This is the normal driving style, you don't need to go over 3K but if you are pottering about a lot and don't give it a good long run in the higher rev range then it will get coked up. I ran mine in as suggested not going over roughly 2-2250 rpm for the first 1000 miles and rarely take it over 3K, no need Confused It's just a harsh racket for no gain, just change gear Confused If you want speed get a bike. It pulled my 2 tonne boat load easily it just doesn't sound as nice as the TD5 and can boom when towing.

I regularly have to take out and clean the EGR on our SAAB as my wife uses it for short trips to work and back. I make sure I hammer it every week to blast the crap out and charge up the battery as it just weakens. Somebody said diesels need to be over 2000 revs to charge up the battery.
Post #116734 19th Jan 2012 12:38pm
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Naks



Member Since: 27 Jan 2009
Location: Stellenbosch, ZA
Posts: 2638

South Africa 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
wait until it's warmed up properly then drive it like you stole it Thumbs Up --
2010 Defender Puma 90 + BAS remap + Alive IC + Slickshift + Ashcroft ATB rear
2015 Range Rover Sport V8 Supercharged



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Post #116739 19th Jan 2012 1:03pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
You have to get a feel for your motor, mine spends a fair amount of time on short journeys, school run etc. When it gets a long trip or even some time at a play day in the mud with my club the fuel consumption gets a lot better and drives a lot better. I live in a village with hills to climb to get out, if it won't accelerate away up the hill first thing in the morning in fourth then I know it wants a run or some "stick". When you take your motor in for MoT what is it that people tell you to do? Get it on a good road and give it a blast to clean it out!
Post #116740 19th Jan 2012 1:04pm
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Zagato
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Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5013

United Kingdom 
JWL wrote:
When you take your motor in for MoT what is it that people tell you to do? Get it on a good road and give it a blast to clean it out!


Yes to get the crap out to get it through the emissions test, painful to watch to see a bloke just standing on the accelerator just revving the hell out of it Sad
Post #116741 19th Jan 2012 1:13pm
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JWL



Member Since: 26 Oct 2011
Location: Hereford
Posts: 3443

England 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Coniston Green
I am so grateful that I take my Defender to a sympathetic to Land Rover and a fellow club member to boot Thumbs Up
Post #116751 19th Jan 2012 1:51pm
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MartinK



Member Since: 02 Mar 2011
Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border)
Posts: 2665

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Orkney Grey
Ok - here goes.

My last Discovery TD5 was bought my me from new and did 187,000 miles in 9 years.

Always gently warm it before driving normally (i.e. rev 1500-2200 rpm, just letting it trickle along), I usuall tick-over for 10 seconds before selecting a gear as well.

In normal driving, no labouring, keep it spinning above 1500 revs (flat), or minimum 1800 revs on an up hill section.

Change oil regularly, use good oil.

If you have been on a motorway or fast A road, let it idle for at least 10 seconds before switching off (as the manual says!)

Be smooth.

It's a Land Rover, not a Ferrari, so i tend to use 2000-2300 revs on long journeys.

etc Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's)
Post #116787 19th Jan 2012 3:47pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
Really surprised to hear so many advocating high revs, that even a bit of trashing, is the thing to do.
My 2.4 Tdci is running smoothly on torque as of 1200 rpm. On flat roads at 60km/hr in 6th gear it is just purring like a cat. Rarely go over 2000 rpm at all, except for highway driving at 120km/hr or 2400 rpm, but I am of the opinion that gentle driving and - very important - gently changing gear,s is what suits this 2.4 Tdci best.
My EGR valve had to be replaced when the car was still new, but thereafter not the slightest problem anymore and I now have 55k km. All without trashing/revving, and no sign of caking.
Do agree that we should avoid making the engine work too hard at low revs, like when driving uphill, but common sense and feeling tells you when to switch to a lower gear to keep the engine at a comfy 1500/1800 rpm up hill.
Frankly think that the 2.4 Tdci is not really intended for high revving, etc., certainly not when you think of long term ownership and joy. You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
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Post #116885 19th Jan 2012 8:26pm
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