 | Home > Td5 > TD5 110 Non starting woes! |
 
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| derekt Member Since: 28 Dec 2011 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 7   
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Looking for help with TD5. - Story so far: Original problem - failed to start one morning about 2 months ago. Had it towed to an independent LR mechanic. Kept it for a week and reckoned it was the fuel filter housing which he told me he had replaced. ( a bit dubious though as the brass connectors were not that shiny and still a fair bit of oily deposit around the top. Certainly the filter had been replaced but at a cost of £430 for housing, time and recovery?) It is true that the pump had been whistling like it was purging air most of the time. The battery was also dubious and has since been replaced with a brand new Optima.
Things went OK for a while but still whining occasionally and at times unpredictable to start. Cut hole in rear tub and replaced fuel pump. Went OK for a while but starting still a lottery. Dismantled fuel pressure regulator to check filter, no problems. Ran for a while, now refuses to start. It will run after several minutes cranking. It cranks very fast, almost catching, then when it does catch and you keep the revs up it will go for about a minute albeit lumpy at lower revs, then it will die, never to start again until left for about an hour. I have checked the ECU plug and yes as ever it had oil in it. I have a new harness on order but in the meantime I have cleaned the connectors (several times), and electrically tested for continuity from the ECU plug to each injector. Also tested for s/c within the harness wiring but all ok. Ran new earth to ECU, no change. Have removed and cleaned the CKP sensor, visually OK but local stealer needs £115 for a new one so reluctant to go down that road unless I have to! Now running out of ideas so any suggestion from this forum would be most welcome. Sorry to go on, but was hoping some of these symptoms might ring a bell with someone. Adventure before Dementia |
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28th Dec 2011 9:38pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101  
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you need 4 bar pressure, that the first place to start.
Did you put a genuine pump in? the cheaper ones have been known to fail almost straight away 
do you have any access to diagnostic equipment? |
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28th Dec 2011 9:42pm |
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| derekt Member Since: 28 Dec 2011 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 7
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Yep, the new pump was genuine. Do not have access to fuel pressure guage or diagnostics. Looking at other forums, fuel pressure guages seem to be assembled from spare bits and not off-the shelf. Also have been looking to invest in a Nanocom or Hawkeye. Any recommendations? Adventure before Dementia
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28th Dec 2011 10:10pm |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101
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pm lorryman...he's up your way and switched on with diag gear. you need to see any faults.
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28th Dec 2011 10:16pm |
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| wslr Member Since: 18 Jul 2010 Location: Wellington, Somerset Posts: 581
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T1G is right in that you need to get it plugged in to get some clues. This independent should be able to plug it in. If he has done so and no codes have occured, then it is likely to be fuel rather than electrical.
From what you are saying, it sounds like air in the fuel system. With the Td5, you can trigger a fuel purge routine. With the ignition on, press the accelerator pedal 5 times. The MIL will light up on the instrument pack and the fuel pump will run a series of purge routines to clear air out of the fuel system. While it is doing this, see if you can hear the pump getting noisy as this is usually air. Once the purge cycle has been done, either the vehicle will fire up first time, or you may need the throttle down full while cranking to get it to fire. Either way, this may help you work out if the issue is fuel or electrical. The fuel filter housings were going porous at one point and they were listed as back-ordered showing demand for new units, but I think they are now back in stock. What can occur is that if an injector is lifting slightly, carbon/soot can get into the fuel system/tank and block the non-return valve in the filter head amongst other bits. |
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29th Dec 2011 9:12am |
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| derekt Member Since: 28 Dec 2011 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 7
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OK, given that most feedback pointed to Fuel pressure, stripped back Filter, checked all connections. Checked FPR, nothing obvious. Lashed up a piece of plastic tubing to HP input of FPR and attached to a tyre guage (needs must!) Virtually no pressure. It then occurred to me that despite stripping down the fuel delivery system there was an absence of the squealing sound as then management system went through the purging sequence. Put back in the old pump, tested for pressure again, blew the connection off, sprayed the engine and the garage! Connected all up again, purged and started. Now sweet as a nut, despite a squealing pump. Now where is that receipt for the NEW? pump!! Adventure before Dementia
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29th Dec 2011 10:50am |
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| T1G UP Member Since: 08 Dec 2009 Location: Bath Posts: 3101
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i'm guessing you didn't drop the tank when you fitted the pump. i'd drop it and clean it. could be silted up blocking the pump pick up gauze and causing a squeal. shood run quiet but be heard.
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29th Dec 2011 12:11pm |
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| derekt Member Since: 28 Dec 2011 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 7
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No did not drop the tank, went in through the rear tub. Whoever had the motor before me put on the wrong rear cross member which did not have the bolt holes for the tank guard at the back end therefore just welded it on! The motor was bought as a project and will be taken apart in due course so I will sort that out when I do the bodywork
and doors etc. However I do know from the old pump that there is a large amount of tarry silt in it, so probably new tank called for. Thanks for your input, much appreciated. Adventure before Dementia |
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29th Dec 2011 12:41pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
Personally I would go for the new nanocom evolution. It is a powerful and compact self contained diagnostic tool which allows access to the TD5 EMS,Lucas 10AS and Wabco ABS modules. It allows limited settings changes to be carried out and for the money is a very handy addition to the DIY'ers toolbox. 
You can get one direct from BBS here: https://blackbox-solutions.com/shop/ Or pm BAS, Pete Bell is a site sponsor and an authorised BBS stockist, so I'm sure he will have one in stock
Brian. |
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29th Dec 2011 2:22pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 
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Second the above, eventually would keep cutting out and totally failed on the way to the doctors, ended up having to go on the back of a Green Flag wagon to get there
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7th Jan 2012 11:34am |
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| derekt Member Since: 28 Dec 2011 Location: Aberdeen Posts: 7
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Yes the main problem is low fuel pressure. I am presently running the old (noisy) pump which at least does go if you give it a few seconds to build pressure up on starting. Trying to get a refund/replacement on the new (faulty) pump from seller via ebay. Seller not responding so having to resort to the dispute resolution service on ebay.
Re the injector seals, yes I will replace them soon, just waiting for a break in the weather, Defender doesn't quite fit in the garage! Lots of other jobs to do too. Adventure before Dementia |
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7th Jan 2012 6:21pm |
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