 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Chassis Protection for new Defenders. |
 
|
|
|
| Ninetenths Member Since: 26 Mar 2009 Location: Sarf Lundun Posts: 161  
|
Think it's just a travel coat now, my 07 has an OE underseal which has lasted well, but the bean counters probably enforced some corner cutting on later models. Pimped black '07 Puma
Equally Pimped Black Pick up Truck Rollin deep |
||
18th Dec 2011 11:58am |
|
| Paullr90 Member Since: 06 Feb 2011 Location: Derby Posts: 93  
|
I think GKN epd the chassis before painting. It's the same process we are using on our new JCB tractors. basically a electrostatic dipping proces. give it a google. 2003 Td5 90XS
1970 Series 11A 2.25TD 2013 Freelander 2 HSE Lux (the wife's)  |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 12:49pm |
|
| The Boy Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: East Northants Posts: 1459 
|
My 07 had some underseal on on some places but not all over. When it went back at two years old most of the chassis had rust starting. The 09 had no underseal and infact had bare shiny metal in places so I coated it myself. At two and a half years old I cant see any rust coming through yet.
|
||
|
18th Dec 2011 2:05pm |
|
| Paul Rover Member Since: 15 Aug 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 61
|
Thanks. I've googled 'electrostatic dipping' but was does 'epd' stand for? |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 2:06pm |
|
| Paullr90 Member Since: 06 Feb 2011 Location: Derby Posts: 93
|
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electrophoretic_deposition
Electrophoretic deposition almost got it right. It's like a coating of primer before a top coat. 2003 Td5 90XS 1970 Series 11A 2.25TD 2013 Freelander 2 HSE Lux (the wife's) |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 3:12pm |
|
| Paul Rover Member Since: 15 Aug 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 61
|
Got it - thanks again.
Not convinced that this alone will protect the underside from the ravages of road salt during the Winter months though, so having just spent the best part of £26K, I think I'll be following the waxoyl/dinitrol route ASAP. |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 3:23pm |
|
| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
|
Or better still paint your chassis with POR-15 (Frosts.co.uk) after rust converting any small rusty areas, you will never have to do the outside again and it always look clean and shiny
 Then just use the Dinitrol cavity cans every 4-8 years depending on the type of use your LR has. The Dinitrol kits which can be got from their outlet Rejel.com already have rust converting cans in the kit, code DIN02L for a 90 or 110 
This pic was taken after I had treated with Dintrol, so the nice coating of POR-15 got mucked up with over-spray but has since been cleaned off. Word of warning don't paint POR-15 on anything you will need to undo in the future e.g. drain plugs, axle nuts etc once this stuff is on it's cemented on for good :wink: Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 5:39pm |
|
| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
|
or even better than that, Tetrosyl chassis paint (needs no primer, just spray or brush it on)
i cant believe you even painted your steering damper zag  |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 6:04pm |
|
| Paul Rover Member Since: 15 Aug 2011 Location: Kent Posts: 61
|
As the it's only a couple of weeks old with less than 200 road miles on the clock there shouldn't be any rust patches yet, but I take your point, and having read the posts on here re rust proofing I certainly will be treating the chassis in and out. Would you say Dinitrol is better than Waxoyl?
|
||
|
18th Dec 2011 6:07pm |
|
| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
|
 Painstakingly painted everything I could - it took me 2 weeks on and off to do it all, hell of a job but quite satisfying doing it. POR-15 is nice stuff to work with, it goes straight on, no need to prime either just need to degrease first |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 6:10pm |
|
| Zagato Site Supporter Member Since: 08 Jan 2011 Location: Billingshurst West Sussex Posts: 5013
|
Paul there will be rust on the weld seems etc I'm afraid - it is present before the factory build  It's only a few patches however and can be stopped dead. Plenty of threads on the advantages of Dinitrol over Waxoyl on here and other forums It's nice to see ACF50 is also getting good press over WD40 on forums. |
||
|
18th Dec 2011 6:13pm |
|
| d j hutton Member Since: 30 Jul 2009 Location: Dorset Posts: 1044  
|
Dinitrol treatment all done now but one question.
Middle door pillars had a largish plug - removed, cavity sprayed and plug put back then black waxed. Front door pillars (A pillar?) didn't have a plug but a smaller whole at the bottom, so applied cavity wax through small hole and pushed in a plug that came with the dinitrol kit, then black waxed. Just been thinking is that hole open for a reason ? should I have not plugged it? just getting paranoid like you do and don't want to spoil the job at the last minute by doing something wrong. Thanks for any input on that. Quite a nice finish in the end with that stuff, got some engine wax in the kit as well but I'm in two minds about that - I'll ponder that one over Christmas. DJ 1989 200tdi 90 csw 2011 110 usw Orkney grey Buy British 🇬🇧 Defender Clothing Designs available at http://www.rangesports.com/acatalog/Defender-Stuff.html |
||
|
22nd Dec 2011 5:49pm |
|
| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
|
Sounds like you've done a thorough job. Never seen one with a plug in bottom of the A pillar. Access to the top can be gained by removing one hinge screw at a time which enables you to get a fine spray lance in there and wiggled about. Rubber grommets below the windscreen are worth attention too. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
||
|
22nd Dec 2011 8:52pm |
|
| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
|
Zagato - looking at the Frosts website and there are various products available under the POR 15 brand: 1. Rust Preventative Paint - this seems the original but best applied to rusty or bare metal rather than pre-painted and then in descending order of cost, there is: 2. Hardnose Paints 3. Chassis Coat Black 4. BlackCote Paint which product(s) did you use in the photo above? They also do a Tie Coat Primer which they suggests need using if you are going to over paint item 1. Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated |
||
|
4th May 2013 10:04am |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
