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Diesel Power Member Since: 04 Mar 2025 Location: Midlands Posts: 11 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Is my diff about to explode?
Just started today so I’ve parked it up for now. It seems to be coming from the rear and its worse pulling off or coasting. Any help much appreciated. [url] https://whyp.it/tracks/272482/noise |
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landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5859 ![]() ![]() |
You checked the prop ujs?
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Roverdrive Member Since: 11 Aug 2024 Location: Wirral Posts: 21 ![]() ![]() |
As said above it is worth checking the prop UJs.
Chock the wheels securely and take it out of gear and handbrake off to take weight off the prop. Hope this helps 110 CSW |
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Bowbearer Member Since: 12 Aug 2022 Location: Norfolk Posts: 206 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Take it out of difflock as well before checking.
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Diesel Power Member Since: 04 Mar 2025 Location: Midlands Posts: 11 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]() Click image to enlarge Thanks all for the help. On closer inspection, found this. Not sure if this is just the UJ that’s trashed or whether I need to replace the whole prop. I was planning to upgrade to a Gywn Lewis HD one anyway. ![]() Click image to enlarge |
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Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2246 ![]() ![]() |
They look very dry and very rusted, I’m wondering on the condition of the splined shaft as well.
If the yokes and splined shaft are ok then a good clean with a wire brush, replacement UJ’s, a paint and a good grease should refurbish ok. That lot will take a while if it’s your first time and you will need correct tools, ie, good circlip pliers, large vice or press, correct size sockets grease gun etc. And you vehicle will be off road while you do it. So if you don’t have a vice etc it may be more cost effective buying new props ( I’m assuming the other one has not had grease as well so will be in a similar condition soon.) and Gwyn Lewis HD ones are very good. You can also change the props over in an hour or so , therefore vehicle will be back on road quickly. If you were thinking of going that route anyway now is the time to do it. Ps don’t delay, else you could damage rear diff components. |
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Diesel Power Member Since: 04 Mar 2025 Location: Midlands Posts: 11 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Thanks for the advice.
I wanted to swap both props anyway so now’s the time. Does anyone know the part number for a 1992 200 TDI? I’ve looked at GKN rear props and some websites have them for around £100 and others list a genuine one at upwards of £800. I think the GL HD ones are worth investing in as a fit once and forget. |
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jaygti Member Since: 04 Nov 2012 Location: essex Posts: 397 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The GL ones aren’t fit and forget.
They will need a regular squirt of grease twice a year, preferably more, then they will last for ages, if your defender isn’t lifted. When you order it order the socket extension ,as it saves loads of time when you fit them. 2002 td5 90 county hardtop |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20729 ![]() ![]() |
Standard props are Hardy Spicer I think, whatever you do have will need regreasing as mentioned, I do mine every 3 months now.
If you do just replace the UJ the GKN is the way to go, but again as mentioned depends if there is damage, if the bearing cup is in-tact you should be okay, but if the roller bearings are gone, and there is damage to the bearing cup and the housing then there will be quite some off balance, better off getting a new prop. Standard props are fine for the majority of peoples uses but those UJ’s are bone dry. Of course, another thing unless you DIY service is ignored commonly by garages. Things like UJ and Prop Slider greasing doesn’t get done, nor brake fluid, nor does electronics sensor cleaning if applicable. So a lot of people think this is done with servicing and it isn’t, and many won’t tell you either. Plus they’ll use lower spec oils etc, so worth bearing in mind. If you want a quick fix and less work, I’d look at a Hardy Spicer stahdard Prop, grease it up nicely and fit. If you have the time, and feel like it, plus the condition of the existing prop is usable then you can replace the UJ’s, but they can be a bit of a trial as mentioned already you’ll need a large vice, circlip pliers etc, the old ones can be a pain to get out. The choices are yours really, oh and if you need to use it you can run in 2wd with diff locked if you need to for a while if that helps, then you can do one prop at a time. In the long run though you’ll need to keep them greased, either DIY or ask for it to be done. The cab actually be quite dangerous if that failed at speed, so good job you noticed and stopped driving it right away now. WeWillWin🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2724 ![]() ![]() |
The yoke is knackered - you need a new prop.
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MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 198 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
As Retro said - the yoke itself has been eaten, so not serviceable. You need a new prop. Just zoom in your own photo where I have circled in red the evidence…
/Mat ![]() Click image to enlarge |
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custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20729 ![]() ![]() |
Yeah, that’s a new Prop needed. I was using phone so didn’t take a close look.
A good job it didn’t break free! ![]() ⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2320 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
All for the want of a bit of maintenance !
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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Oldowner Member Since: 26 Dec 2018 Location: South west Posts: 647 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I expect the rest of the vehicle is in similar condition!!!
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