 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Air con- is it working? And mud flaps |
 
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8201   
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What's the cooling matrix on the front of the vehicle look like, May need replacing?
Mud flaps attach to a to plate that has an integral bar that runs to the chassis and bol hole to rear qtr panel. https://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/lr055330...hicap.html You can buy them as one like above or buy flap and bracket separately. It's worth upgrading to gwyn Lewis mud flap mountings in my opinion, lush his mud shields. Cheers James 110 2010 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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26th Mar 2025 11:18pm |
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| Sillyoldme Member Since: 26 Mar 2025 Location: Birmingham Posts: 4 
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Hmm
What does a cooling matrix look like in the first place?  (this wil be painful for you guys, sorry!)
The mudflap in the link is what I have. The issue I have is that the bit that attaches to the body panel is half a circle shape, the body panel bit is also like that but in reverse so how does that stay attached? Or am I being just thick ? (Probably) |
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26th Mar 2025 11:37pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2219
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Regarding,
2 years ago the car went back to LR for a few niggles as it was still under approved used warranty. They took the panel off for some reason that holds all the controls and two things I noticed is that a) I now can’t select air re-circ- the lever just won’t move at all and the heating controls seem to be hot/cold. No way of making it anything in between! Regarding recirculation lever , it looks like the dealer messed up and jammed the lever / cable , removing the centre part of the dash should allow you to see / correct the issue. Lots of info on here regarding removing the dash centre. Regarding the heater being either hot or cold with nothing in between. I’m afraid that’s normal with our Puma’s. |
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26th Mar 2025 11:43pm |
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| Sillyoldme Member Since: 26 Mar 2025 Location: Birmingham Posts: 4
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Could they have messed up something else that’s causing the poor temperature control or is that just how it is?
I remember when I first got the car I was so pleased I had air con….but now I’m not sure it’s doing much. I know it’s not going to be as good as a modern car but this is pretty crap now. |
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27th Mar 2025 12:05am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2219
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The controls for heat and vent are all on the same unit, so in theory if they messed up the recirculating lever they could have messed up other things.
However the valve that controls the flow of hot water into the heater matrix and it’s connection to the heater control on the dash via a Bowden cable is pretty rudimentary. Which results in a minuscule level of control between hot and cold. Hence what you are experiencing is unfortunately the norm. Regarding your Air conditioning, I think you have a component failure. If you are not used to fault finding and working on defenders I would advise getting a good independent defender specialist or specialist vehicle aircon company to investigate the problem as it can be quite complex for a novice. Ps people on here can advise on a good Indi near you. Noting IRB developments are in Birmingham and Ian ( Porny on here) specialises in our Defenders |
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27th Mar 2025 12:49am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 756  
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As others have said, there is a cable the links to the control and it most likely wasn't reinstalled properly.
A thing you can also check is if the part of the heater where the cable is connected to is completely down in shut off position. This is a common pain and there are some solutions to it but for now, just press down on the bit and cool should be cool and not cool-ish. You may want to have your evaporator coil checked and it will probably need replacing as there is most likely a pin hole in there somewhere causing refrigerant to escape. If this is indeed the problem, don't forget to tell the AC shop to top off the oil in the compressor as well when they replace the coil or the compressor may be your next problem. I hope this helps. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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27th Mar 2025 1:24am |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1462 
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Mud Flap Fixing.
Hi, It's a common problem for the fixing hole to tear out of the wing and the flap drops off. Pictures in the link below. A piece of aluminium angle can be screwed or riveted inside the wing to repair it. Or YRM do a kit with repair panels, screws and adhesive/sealant: https://yrmit.co.uk/product/mudflap-wing-s...ender-110/ Is the fixing still there in the chassis to fix the other end? It should be a rivnut, a threaded insert in the side of the chassis, if it didn't pull out when the flap fell off. |
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27th Mar 2025 3:28am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17674 
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Mudflaps do sometimes simply fall off once the outer end of the support corrodes the wing (see port above and link to YRM), but the most common reason for their departure is reversing into a high kerb or roadside bank which can cause the mudflap to get trapped between the wheel and the kerb or bank, and simply ripped off. This is the reason why off-road oriented Defenders often have chains or cords from the crossmember to the bottom of the mudflap. I've lost two in the last 15 years off my 110. The first came off whilst I was driving along a road which was flooded to about top-of-wheel depth, I don't know why it came off but it had gone when I came out of the water. It had broken the flange at the bottom of the wing and sheared the machine screw at the chassis end. I never saw it again and had to buy a new one  . The second I pinched between a grassy bank and the rear wheel when trying to give a tractor with a huge agricultural thing attached space to get past on a narrow country lane. Fortunately in my mirror I saw the mudflap on the bank as I drove off so was able to recover that one. Interestingly after I had repaired the mountings of both flaps after the flood incident, the mounting was so strong that the rubber pulled off the rivets holding it to the mounting bar without causing any damage to anything.
It is well worth using the YRM kit or fabricating something similar to repair the bottom of the wing but be aware that rear mudflaps are vulnerable. |
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27th Mar 2025 9:27am |
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| bodstruck Member Since: 09 May 2020 Location: Wiltshire Posts: 972
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I fitted Gwyn Lewis rear mudflap brackets which come with a strengthener plate for the bottom of the rear wing. The mudflap itself is removable too.
https://gwynlewis4x4.co.uk/product/defende...ub-gl1003/ |
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27th Mar 2025 1:55pm |
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| Sillyoldme Member Since: 26 Mar 2025 Location: Birmingham Posts: 4
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Thank you for all the comments
The fixing is still there in the chassis with a tiny bit of the mud flap bracket. I lost it somewhere on the motorway between scotland and England. We don’t really do any off roaring Just checked the remaining rear mudflap and it’s attached to chassis only with the other end wobbly and resting on the body panel- no fixing, the hole is torn out. I guess I’ll be losing that soon too! Thank you for the links, I like the reinforcement thing better than the other mudflaps, will definitely invest in that. The rear looks so much better with the mudflaps. Regarding the heater cable: Where does the other end go for me to check? |
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27th Mar 2025 8:13pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17674
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Re. The heater, it's fairly normal for a Puma to have only cold and inferno heat settings, they really aren't very controllable, so there may be nothing wrong there. The fresh/stuffy flap is, as I recall, above the passengers toes and this is where the far end of the cable will go. If the knob doesn't move at all it may be that the flap is jammed but is perhaps more likely that the cable is pinched or kinked.
If you were to pop the radio out and remove the centre panel (the heater controls stay in place) you will probably be able to determine what's wrong. |
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27th Mar 2025 8:25pm |
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| Birdy Member Since: 07 Oct 2011 Location: Côte d'Azur Posts: 883  
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“... no fixing, the hole is torn out.”
Depending on how much of the lip has torn away, you might get away with a strip of metal on top of it and some big washers. That’s how I re-fixed mine. But I’m a cheap-skate. Peter |
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27th Mar 2025 11:11pm |
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