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| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 528   
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I've had much greater success with a standard radiator on my Mercedes engined 110. The Allisport one I had fitted only lasted two years before it started leaking. Although it was probably twice the size I think that it was overcooling. It now runs at a much more consistent temperature and crucially doesn't overheat on hills, which it did before with the larger radiator. My theory is that it was too efficient for the application meaning that the water never got up to an even temperature in the engine block, but that's only my unqualified take. 1983 110 automatic OM606
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23rd Mar 2025 4:32pm |
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| bear100 Member Since: 22 Mar 2010 Location: South Wales Posts: 1971 
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2 years! Wow that’s surprised me I would expect it to out last the engine, it’s quite a price and no doubt well engineered but to fail after 2 years I would be in tears
Thanks for the reply, I was expecting this type of answer tbh  2023 Defender L663 V8
2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8 (gone) 2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI 2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone) 2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone) 1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone) 1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone) 1994 discovery 300tdi (gone) 90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone) Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone) |
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23rd Mar 2025 4:39pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 676 
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my thoughts on radiator upgrades is , before you do go down that route check the status of your current cooling system by physically checking the temp of the bottom radiator hose when your coolant is in the 90 deg or so and you know the thermostat will be diverting flow to the radiator ... if that hose is still relatively cool then your present radiator is doing the job..
I was concerned about what the cooling situation might be on a recent Morocco trip and whilst the highest ambient we experienced would have been in the high twenties the engine was well worked driving in deep sand ... I was surprised at how well it coped.. again im just assuming that the viscous fan is far better when it has a warmer air flow across it, and as long as you don't labour the engine but keep the revs 2000rpm plus the cooling system will cope, all other things been in order |
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23rd Mar 2025 4:52pm |
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| bankz5152 Member Since: 02 Feb 2017 Location: South London/North Kent Posts: 2203 
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A good quality one is more the fine for the UK and even European weather.
Nissens is a good brand. Instagram @defender_ventures Empire Tuning - Agent |
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23rd Mar 2025 5:09pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 06 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1873 
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Another option, if you could find a used/old radiator with the brass header tanks, is to get a recore.
I had this done, and the shop I took it to said that based on the width of the header tanks, they could fit a wider matrix with an additional layer of cooling channels/fins. I used this very happily on trips to the Pyrenees and the south of France, and will be heading to Portugal in a couple of months time. So it sits in exactly the same place, just a substantial % increase in cooling ability. That said, I’ve not noticed any issues using it in nth of Scotland either. Engine holds its operating temperature very well. I think it was more expensive than a new plastic and aluminium one, but worth it. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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23rd Mar 2025 8:43pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1198  
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Radiators loose efficiency over time. The fins loose connection to the cores and the cores can clog, although if you use the right coolant (not water) I think the chance of clogging should not be there.
Still a cooling system has a design margin to deal with reduced efficiency over time and a new radiator can pump out some impressive amount of hot air! My point is that radiators should be treated as replacement items, certainly in hot climates. They are relatively cheap and it is better to budget for an occasional new one. |
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24th Mar 2025 7:01am |
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| BaronDefenders Member Since: 28 Jun 2019 Location: London/Cotswolds Posts: 912 
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I have a standard Nissens rad in my Td5 and an AlliSport rad in my V8.
The Td5 copes absolutely fine with a standard rad for all road use. I don’t find a need for an upgrade. The V8 was OK with the standard rad, but the temperature would rise when stopping after a motorway run or if being pushed up a hill. The AlliSport rad is certainly better at cooling and the temperature drops faster when parking up. Charlie 1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD) 2002 Td5 90 (SOLD) 2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD) 1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored) 1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE) 2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK) 2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build) Instagram: @BaronDefenders |
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24th Mar 2025 10:53am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2460  
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You could also replace the original thermostat with others opening at lower temperature. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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24th Mar 2025 11:04am |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1198
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Quote: You could also replace the original thermostat with others opening at lower temperature.
But that would not address any overheating since the heat in (engine) is more than the heat out (radiator). Once the thermostat is fully open it does not matter anymore it's overheating. In fact a lower (than spec) thermostat will in normal operating conditions result in too low a temperature and also you will get less cabin heat in winter. |
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24th Mar 2025 11:38am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2460
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Well, that is the theory. In practice it works assuming the whole system is in good condition.
At least here with over 35C during summer the engine temp does not go over 95C, compared to the 100-105C and above when using the std LR thermostat. Puma 110" SW ............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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24th Mar 2025 11:46am |
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| MarkBrown Member Since: 03 Oct 2022 Location: Mid Wales Posts: 528
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I think that if the system is cooler to start with using a lower temperature thermostat, there is a greater temperature range available when the engine gets hot following load, say uphill, therefore a greater safety margin. After a point (thermostat fully open) it won't matter what the thermostat temperature is, if the cooling system can't keep up with the rise in temperature then it will overheat. 1983 110 automatic OM606
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24th Mar 2025 12:17pm |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 905 
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Not that my input is much help, but I always turn the ac on so the fan is drawing in air while in traffic or at stop after a long drive. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
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24th Mar 2025 12:25pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2204
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I’m also impressed with the standard Rad from Nissens, it’s at least as good as the genuine LR one.
My tuppence worth. if you have the original rad still fitted to your 2010 2.4 and looking to prep for expeditions then it’s a good idea to change for a Nissens one as the original one is very likely past it’s best. I note you have done a strip down to replace the head so will have drained the coolant anyway. Regarding coolant. Texaco Delo XLC antifreeze , orange in colour, Is the stuff LR use plus rebadge and sell as their own. It is really good antifreeze for our 2.4 / 2.2 Puma engines. Dilute 50/50 with deionised water and it’s good for 10 years on average. If going on expedition trips to hot climates , especially if going up long / steep inclines and running at altitudes then you could change out your thermostat to a lower temp one before the trip as part of the preparations, then change back to the original thermostat on your return, noting that if it does not get very cold where you live( it does not in Essex) then you may want to just leave the lower temp thermostat in place. |
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24th Mar 2025 12:38pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 676
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For the sake of a debate I'll ask again..
Does anyone who has overheating issues or thinks they need a radiator upgrade check the temp of their bottom radiator hoses when the engine is up to its working temp and the Thermostat should be well opened and diverting most of the flow through the radiator... I'm with texas on the thought that changing to a lower temp operating stat is going to cure an overheating problem... How??, All stats have an operating range and a temp they should be fully deployed at.. Once a stat is fully open that's it.. If you overheating with a stat that is fully open at 96 deg you will eventually be overheating with a stat that is fully open at 90deg as long as they are both capable of the same flow rate.. Or am I missing some other point...not unknown👍🫣🤣 |
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24th Mar 2025 5:24pm |
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