 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > TD5 clutch issue? |
 
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919   
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Currently the pedal is about the same height as the brake pedal.
I am going to have another look today and yesterday I got my self an ezi bleed kit as I don't have a wife assistant with me today to help bleed the clutch. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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15th Mar 2025 8:49am |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 660
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It's possible to bleed clutch and brakes on your own a lot of the time ..
As long as the bleed pipe is secure and a good fit so that there is no leaking or air ingress possible at that point just make sure you take it to a higher level than the bleed point in a u bend before the discharge point.. That ensures a small head of fluid above the bleed point outlet when you release the pedal...I've always found that gives ample time to get round and close the bleed off..clear pipe helps see what's going on Works for me anyway.. |
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15th Mar 2025 11:25am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3501  
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Yes, under that black cover. Yes its hard to see, and fiddly to put back on with the MC in situe. But you should be able to feel a little โfreeโ play in the clutch pedal when you start pushing it by hand.
One more trick that worked for me to bleed the last bit of air in the system is to lock the pedal all the way down with a piece of wood against the seat box and leave it overnight. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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15th Mar 2025 12:50pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Hi. I did previously try the wedge the pedal down method but didn't seem to work (for me at least)
I tried the Ezi bleed and all this did was push fluid out of the MC via the cap. (pedal down, and bleed nipple open) I resorted to running around pumping the pedal/topping up/checking the fluid in the clear pipe at the slave end. Pedal adjusted with some free play and around 150mm ish high from the floor. The pedal feels a bit better but 1st and reverse are really hard to get. Once moving you can get 1st to 2nd etc ok but when you come to slow down and need 1st its a really pain to get. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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15th Mar 2025 1:45pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 660
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If I'm understanding you correctly and you used the easy bleed with the pedal depressed then you have shut off the fluid passage between the resevoir and the master cylinder..that would account for the fluid finding a way out at the resevoir cap..
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15th Mar 2025 1:52pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Not quite, I applied pressure at the MC with the pedal depressed and with the bleed nipple open it still spewed fluid out.
I did get fluid out the bleed nipple by up/down with the pedal. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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15th Mar 2025 2:07pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 660
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That's what I mean.. the easy bleed would be connected and the pedal left alone.. every time you press the pedal you isolate the resevoir from the master cylinder..
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15th Mar 2025 2:21pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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ok, so if I don't press the pedal and apply pressure how does the fluid get to the slave?
My understanding was, with the pedal up the MC is isolated from the the slave and no fluid will pass. Press the pedal down and the MC opens and fluid will pass to the slave? 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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15th Mar 2025 3:35pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 660
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If I've misunderstood you I apologise, but I thought you were using an easy bleed...
If you are you wouldn't touch the pedal.. as I've said doing so isolates the master cylinder resevoir from the master cylinder and the pressure that the easy bleed is applying.. Your assumption that the master is isolated from the slave with pedal up is incorrect I believe..with the pedal up the whole hydraulic system is just subject to atmospheric pressure or resevoir pressure..with the easy bleed connected the pressure on the fluid in the resevoir is transfared to the fluid in the whole system.. You basically just need to standby the bleed valve and shut it when you've purged the system.. |
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15th Mar 2025 3:54pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1184  
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With the MC at rest position there is an open path from the reservoir to the slave, this is the reset feature of the hydraulic clutch (unlike the cable clutch). When you start pressing the pedal the reservoir gets isolated and pressure builds up with fluid flowing from MC to slave. To bleed, one would either compress the MC and bleed the air out of the slave or leave the MC untouched and flush the fluid from the reservoir through the MC and out through the slave bleed. I have had some success by removing the slave, but leaving it connected and the press in the slave to push back the fluid (and air) to the reservoir. You can typically hear the air purging through ( as you lay on your back underneath the car) |
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15th Mar 2025 4:20pm |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Update:
I tried rebleeding with the pedal at rest with the bleed nipple open, the Ezi-bleed still pushed fluid out from the cap and not a lot came out from the nipple. I got more from the nipple by doing a manual pedal up/pedal down motion. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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17th Mar 2025 7:54am |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 660
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Then it is likely that the valve that shuts the resevoir off from the master cylinder is been actuated even though your not pressing the clutch..
It doesn't take much pedal movement to shut that valve.. If your fluid level in the resevoir doesn't drop rapidly as you pump the pedal that would confirm the above.. 4 or 5 strokes of pedal should see the level nearly to empty. You will need a bit clearance or slack in your pedal adjustment.. From your description that would be my thoughts..๐ |
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17th Mar 2025 8:20am |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 334 
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If your EaziBleed is anything like mine the fluid will spew out of the cap because they don't supply a cap that creates a 100% seal and the back of the master cylinder has a flat machined into it which allows fluid to be pushed out. Try stretching a rubber glove (with a hole in it) over the master cylinder threads and screw on the cap so it's a tighter seal. Also I used to use a spare tyre off one of our trailers at 10 - 12psi, any higher than that and I have found the fluid will spray everywhere. Oddly enough it's fine for brake bleeding, no leaks at all.
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17th Mar 2025 8:31am |
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| excossack Member Since: 22 Feb 2012 Location: North West Posts: 5919
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Cheers Andy. I can empty the MC in a few strokes of the pedal - probably for 4 or 5 as you mentioned.
I think I am going to try and re-adjust the pedal height to see if this helps. I do have some free play at the pedal. I am getting to the point, I am going to go to my local garage and say fix this for me please. 1999 Defender TD5 110 Regards John M0VAZ Econet Station 48 no clock |
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17th Mar 2025 8:34am |
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