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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1885  
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Hi folks,
I have searched, and looked through a lot of “Td5 radio” threads, so am a little better informed but have just a few questions. Looking at upgrading the radio in friend’s car and I know zip about Td5s! Hers is a 2001 car, with the factory cassette radio and dash. I found a thread on here which suggested pre-2002 vehicles should have DIN connectors - but no such luck. It’s the round pin plug in this car. I’ll be fitting a modern, single DIN, mechless unit. So, questions: There’s no DIN mounting cage. Assuming one will come with the new radio (usually do) will this fit OK into the standard Td5 dash insert? Will it wobble like  and fall out, or will it stay in place? I’ve seen that Raptor do a centre dash cover panel. Seems like a reasonable £50-odd to me, but not sure if budget would be an issue here. My plan is to fit the radio as best I can to the standard dash ‘as is’ and see how that goes for a few months. If there are no issues, that’s the way it’ll stay.
Are the wiring loom adaptors OK? I think I might have a set of ‘crimp on’ ISO plug somewhere, but the loom wires aren’t very long, so maybe a little awkward to crimp on new pins without taking the whole dash out. Using the adaptor would be a bit easier. Her car just has the two front speakers in the lower dash. Will there be wiring somewhere for rear speakers? It’s not part of the current job, just curious if it’s an easy future option? That’s it really - but any advice on this with the Td5 dash/loom would be appreciated. Ta v much. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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9th Mar 2025 4:56pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 341  
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Hi, new radios come with their own cages, they are 'DIN' size so all fit in the standard sized hole. If you are making new connections you could do worse than fitting the vehicle side ISO connectors for speakers and power supply because they will mate directly to the radio loom that comes with the unit.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142427857851 There is a specific pin configuration, plenty of sources online to tell you how to do this. There won't be any wiring for rear speakers if rear speakers are not already installed. The easiest way to add this is to go up the A pillar and behind the headliner, assuming there is one? There are options for rear speaker pods online, MudStuff do some. Just to manage expectations...without spending mega bucks the audio quality in a Defender is pants! Rather than rear speakers consider a single powered subwoofer, such as a Kenwood KSC SW-11, a really good upgrade, easy to fit, doesn't cost the earth. |
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11th Mar 2025 3:36pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1885
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Hi Penfold,
Thanks for replying. My own car was a base/utility spec and had no radio at all, so I've had to do all of that from scratch. (Subwoofer AND rear speakers, and even fitted the wee tweety ones to the top of the dash - though I don't know if I'm getting any useful benefit from them!) I had hoped that by the time LR got to 2001 they might have added just a wee bit of extra wiring to the loom, especially as they were fitting a radio from the factory. I've just had a closer look at the pictures I took of the wiring plug in my friend's car though, and I think you're right. There aren't enough 'pins' in the plug to allow for power x 2, earth, and eight speaker wires. I could certainly run cables to rear speakers, but as I'm sure you know, doing it properly/neatly would mean getting the outer dash out to run the cables through to the audio unit. I've done that so often on my car I have no great enthusiasm to do it here, at least at this stage. Will take the 'quick and easy' route and see how that goes. Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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11th Mar 2025 3:57pm |
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| Penfold_6290 Member Since: 22 Sep 2021 Location: Dorset Posts: 341
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Hi Donald, I've done a lot of audio upgrades in my 110 (2002, facelift dash) and have never removed the outer dash, I just remove the top bar (with the air vents in it) and run my cables behind. That includes some fairly chunky RCA cables from the head unit to the sub in the back. I have seen somewhere someone makes a pod that mimics the facelift radio enclosure for pre 2002 vehicles, but you will have lots of switch blanks unless you intend to upgrade all the switches too.
By upgrading the vehicle side plugs you can also incorporate a the illumination feed as well if the head unit has a dimming function. Also the blue 'amp sense' feed if you intend to go that way. I like to have it tidy on the vehicle side, avoid Scotch Locks and any other nasty connectors. Might be a bit more work and a bit of a fiddle but good for peace of mind...we don't want any fires. EDIT - This looks like a good option https://www.mudstuff.co.uk/products/mud-de...&_ss=r |
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11th Mar 2025 4:04pm |
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| donmacn Member Since: 07 Nov 2017 Location: Nth Scotland Posts: 1885
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Who mentioned Scotchlocks!!
 
Proud to say I've never, ever used those! With you 100% about keeping it neat. When I fitted a Raptor centre console to my car, I relocated the fuel gauge, hazard sw, clock and rear wash/w switches. I made up short extension looms/multiplugs and even went to the extent of ordering up wires in the correct original colours.... maybe not so much for my benefit, but for anyone who might come afterwards. If the Td5-era vehicles still had the little tray that sits on top of the heater duct, with the 'cable duct' at the back, that's how I've chosen to run cabling before, and that's why I've taken at least part of the dash out to give access. As I say though, that's more or less behind my questions, not being familiar with anything younger than 1998! Donald 1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong (The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html ) 2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8 in the past.. RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi 1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box 1993 Discovery 300Tdi not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper... |
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11th Mar 2025 4:32pm |
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