↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home > Technical > Wheel alignment - caster angle out
Post Reply  Down to end
Page 1 of 1
Print this entire topic · 
Diesel Power



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Midlands
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 1992 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
Wheel alignment - caster angle out
Hi guys

First post on here. I will do a more detailed post on my 110 200 TDI but I wanted to seek views on my wheel alignment print out and what could be causing the front driver side caster to be out.

I've recently had the front axle rebuilt with new swivels, wheel bearings, brakes, Alive 25mm lowered springs and Alive comfort spec shocks. The radius arms and panhard are standard but the bushes were replaced prior to my ownership for yellow polybushes, maybe Britpart. Wheels and tyres are new too.

I've attached the Hunter wheel alignment print out showing before and after.

I've also had Gwyn Lewis drop arm conversion installed with the SS steering arms and new track rods.

Any ideas on where to start? I wanted to get the radius arm bushes and panhard rod bushes replaced anyway for OEM hopefully to increase comfort a bit.

Cheers
Mike


Click image to enlarge
Post #1062000 4th Mar 2025 6:32pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 831

United Kingdom 
Camber & caster are not adjustable on a Defender, you can only change the toe in/out via adjustment.
Post #1062009 4th Mar 2025 7:36pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17620

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Non-standard swivel balls are available to adjust the castor angle, and any change to spring length will also make marginal differences.

It is hard to explain the OP's situation unless it is down to manufacturing tolerances (it's a Land-Rover!) or the axle is bent or the swivels excessively worn.
Post #1062011 4th Mar 2025 7:54pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Diesel Power



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Midlands
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 1992 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
Thanks for the replies

I'd rather not change the swivels as I've just replaced them.

So if it's not the swivels as they're new, it could either be a twist in the axle? What about radius arm bushes? I read that this can cause such issues?

The plan is to redo the radius arm bushes and retest to see where I'm at.

It's weird that the front driver side camber got worse after the adjustment!

Cheers
Mike
Post #1062049 5th Mar 2025 9:49am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 831

United Kingdom 
Does the vehicle drive ok?

If so, maybe not worry about it.

As they reported a camber change after adjusting toe, you might have to question the reliability of their measuring.
Post #1062052 5th Mar 2025 10:06am
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Diesel Power



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Midlands
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 1992 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
Yeah it drives fine. I was just worried about tyre wear given that I've just put BF ATs on all round!

I'm planning to get the bushes done in the radius arms and panhard rod then I'll get it rechecked to see whether it has sorted the issue.

Out of interest, would an adjustable panhard rod be helpful here to have another adjustment to play with for the geometry? I wanted to put on a Terrafirma one anyway to match the suspension hardware I have on already.

Cheers
Mike
Post #1062097 5th Mar 2025 6:40pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1450

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
would an adjustable panhard rod be helpful here to have another adjustment to play with for the geometry?

An adjustable panhard rod is only of use to centralise the axle in relation to the chassis, if the suspension height has been changed. It is of no use on a vehicle with standard ride height.

To explain it.
As the suspension springs are lengthened (lifted), the panhard rod swings down.
The fixed end of the rod on the chassis doesn't move, so the axle end of the panhard rod moves in an arc towards the steering side. This drags the whole axle to that side, away from the centre of the vehicle.
Adjusting the length of the panhard rod will put the axle position back to the vehicle centre, but then the steering drag link also needs to be adjusted so the steering doesn't pull away from the 'straight ahead' position.

In an ideal world the Panhard Rod and steering drag link would be exactly the same length, parallel to each other and horizontal at ride height. This is to minimise the steering reaction when the suspension moves up and down.

I'd suggest with only a 25mm change in suspension height you wouldn't need an adjustable Panhard Rod.
More than 50mm change then it would be something to consider.
Post #1062119 5th Mar 2025 9:11pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
Diesel Power



Member Since: 04 Mar 2025
Location: Midlands
Posts: 6

United Kingdom 1992 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Java Black
Thanks for the advice.

I'll stick with the standard panhard in that case. I'm only 15mm lower at the front and rear.

I'm booked in for all bushes to be replaced and I'll report back after checking the alignment, perhaps at a different tyre shop.

Cheers
Mike
Post #1062286 7th Mar 2025 12:51pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1167

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
I think rather than spend a bunch of money on getting the geometry absolutely perfect I would personally tuck that money away for some other future use.

There is limited adjustment and the suspension is from 'a different time'. You will never get it to ride like a modern car which should be seen as a 'charming feature' and part of the allure. All needs to be tight and in good condition of course for safety reasons.

I never liked the front wheel 'stance' of my 03 Td5. I started measuring to find the axle was severely bend causing the wheels to lean in. I had a replacement axle so did an overhaul on that and swapped it in (1-2 hours work on a defender). Now everything is dead straight. Did I notice any difference in driving: no not really.

The work on a defender is never finished and there are more rewarding area's to spend your money on.
Post #1062289 7th Mar 2025 1:46pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Reply with quote
blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17620

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Chicken Drumstick wrote:
Does the vehicle drive ok?

If so, maybe not worry about it...


^ This. Do you really have a problem, or are you just assuming something is wrong. Most likely this is just down to Land-Rover's legendary build tolerances.

Unless there is a serious problem with handling and drivability, or you find that the front tyres are wearing in an even more unusual way than is normal, why worry?
Post #1062290 7th Mar 2025 2:36pm
View user's profile Send private message View poster's gallery Post Reply
Post Reply  Back to top
Page 1 of 1
All times are GMT

Jump to  
Previous Topic | Next Topic >
Posting Rules
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum



Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
DEFENDER2.NET RSS Feed - All Forums