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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3789

United Kingdom 
Electronic ignition? worth it
OK So my Series 3 we have had now for a number of years Smile Its great Thumbs Up


Before I start using it again soon, thinking of a good service, its back firing a bit and can run a bit oddly when it gets warm and under load (2 1/4 petrol)

Thinking :-

Spark plugs
HT leads
oils

then plugs, points etc...


But what about fitting an electronic ignition also? any benefits? any people recommend.


What else is worth doing.


Thanks




Here it is as I bought and after a bit of fettling...




Click image to enlarge





Click image to enlarge
Post #1059083 31st Jan 2025 10:11am
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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1230

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I fitted it to my S2.
I was nervous to do it but it was a revelation!
I bought the distributor you simply swap out..No more points setting, no more damp issues.
It was just so reliable Very Happy
Once fitted the timing needed tweaking but one in place It was seriously good for £50.
( I upgraded coil and leads at the same time just to maximise improvement)
Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun
Post #1059084 31st Jan 2025 10:21am
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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3789

United Kingdom 
^^^ Sounds good.


What make / model did you go with please Thumbs Up
Post #1059089 31st Jan 2025 10:33am
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Evil Elsie



Member Since: 25 Feb 2023
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 205

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Alpine White
Hello,
I replaced the standard ignition on my old Series III Lightweight with the full kit from Powersparks (Dizzy, coil and leads).
It didn't do anything for the fuel consumption but the engine ran 'sweeter'.
Also, as you'll know, there's quite a big gap in the gear ratios between 3rd and 4th. In a 30mph limit, 3rd was a bit too buzzy and 4th was a bit of a slog. The electronic ignition sorted that out and she happily pulled 4th gear.

It's a good mod and I'm glad that I did it..👍👍

Cheers, Dave. 2002 Land Rover 110 Td5 Utility
1990 Suzuki GSXR 1100L
1980 Yamaha RD 350LC
1976 Yamaha RD 400C
Post #1059113 31st Jan 2025 4:45pm
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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1230

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Stacey007 wrote:
^^^ Sounds good.


What make / model did you go with please Thumbs Up


Powersparks for me…you can get a compatible coil and leads too.
The prices are really good I think

Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun
Post #1059116 31st Jan 2025 5:28pm
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Clemmo



Member Since: 03 Aug 2012
Location: Mile Oak
Posts: 1230

England 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
ALSO…..

I also gave up with the standard Carb and fitted a Weber.
Never adjusted it…bolted it on and it ran out of the box.
It was around £200 thou so a more considered mod.
( although tbh I removed it and sold it separately when the S2 went Big Cry )
Clemmo Make today a little better than yesterday but not so good as tomorrow....
Defender 90 HT............Pangea Green
BMW X3 Msport............Carbon Black
Mini Electric................Grey. (wow!)
MGB Roadster……..........Vermillion 17k miles
Honda Benly CD200....Maroon --------McLouis Fusio........7.4m of fun
Post #1059117 31st Jan 2025 5:33pm
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gcc130



Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 760

I’ve run AccuSpark electronic ignition on my series 1 with a 2.5 petrol engine for about ten years after having problems with traditional points burning out and it’s been brilliant, totally reliable, never had to touch the timing since.
The only problem was when I took the rotor off for security and hid it too well. Got another from Accuspark easily enough but still haven’t found the original several years later☹️
Post #1059123 31st Jan 2025 6:57pm
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White Fox



Member Since: 27 Mar 2024
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 7

United Kingdom 
We have fitted the Boyer Bransden points-assist electronic ignition to our two Series Ones 1951 with 2.25 and 1957 with 2.0 ioe.
They were fitted more than 10 years ago without any problems. 2009 Defender 90 CSW XS (daily drive)
1957 Series I 88" Tilt fitted with an early 1953 siamese bore 2.0 petrol engine.
2001 Defender 110 Double cab Td5 (gone)
1992 Range Rover 3.9 Efi Vogue (gone)
1989 Range Rover 3.5 Efi Vogue (gone)
1985 110 hard top 200 Tdi (gone USA)
1986 90 CSW 2.5 petrol (gone Netherlands)
1983 Series III 2.5 diesel (gone)
Post #1059130 31st Jan 2025 7:57pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 922

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green
Giving the ignition system attention is always a good thing, so many maladies can be traced back to it when many can be quick to point the finger at other theoretical issues.

The usual being the static timing being out which is then 'tuned' out by playing with the mixture on the carb and the resulting "Dieseling" when hot.

A standard set of points and coil are IMO fine if working as intended and still as the manufacturer made them. I say this as it's either you need to just give it some attention or it is worn out. Ignition systems do need occasional adjustments as the points gap increases and the ol' drop of lube to keep the shaft bushing happy.

Sooo firstly Do the checks for clean and tight wiring connections to the coil and Dizzy. Poor voltage just means it's simply not working as well to give you a good spark. Is the vac advance working fine? Does the advance weights move freely?
What might be the end is that if it is just simply old then the wear and play in the shaft due to worn bushing then the dwell angle will vary and also could be worse enough to vary the gap between rotor and cap thus varying the spark duration as it as an uneven gap to jump.

If it is worn out then all this means whilst it runs it just isn't as great as it could be.

depending on what you find will hopefully point you in what needs replacing / fettling as it could be either or.

Don't get me wrong I can't fault the Powerspark setup I have and that was only done as the aging Ducellier was not as sharp as it used to be, and the other things I've done forced it to be upgraded.

Powerspark do a few different options and will probably be more cost effective than having yours professionally rebuilt / finding a NOS with the right springs to give the correct curve.

Simply looking at a replacement 45d then PS offer a standard points replacement, a standard electronic replacement or a High Energy electronic version.

To most the luddite will go with the points and the sensible will go for the electronic, and as above you can add on a new matching coil, leads and even plugs if yours are getting on.

Swapping it over is a simple procedure and instructions are included but Simon is a helpful chap should you need to contact them, I did however change out the bullet connectors to a Econoseal connector as i'm a fussy git. Laughing

Now the ignition is sorted then yes the fuel can be looked out, check the float bowl for gunk and the pipes to see if any cracking and splitting as modern petrol / rubber is not best friends. The OE nylon lines are fine it's the little joiner to the carb that usually suffers.
If you have overhauled the ignition then I wouldn't be surprised if you will need to tweek the carb commensurate to the new happy running, there is plenty or how too's on setting the mixture depending on which carb you have, but IMO I do like to do the final bit by ear as it is only then you can hear it running happy. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #1059132 31st Jan 2025 8:38pm
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v8bob



Member Since: 14 Mar 2018
Location: Midlands
Posts: 323

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Nato Green
I fitted lumenition to a vehicle 35 years ago, sold that a while back with it still fitted.
I fitted lumenition to a vehicle 30 years ago, but removed it before selling it ten years ago. Fitted that one to my V8 series a couple of years ago with a different bit as going from a 6 to 8 cylinder. It’s still going fine.
This makes minimal mods so I carry the original points that can easily be re-fitted if the lumenition did pack up.
I would go with lumenition again as it is simple to carry original parts to change back if required!

Holy sh!t Shocked I have looked how much they cost now. I will just check the points every year or so, on my other 3/4 vehicles.


Last edited by v8bob on 31st Jan 2025 9:15pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1059135 31st Jan 2025 8:48pm
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DrRob



Member Since: 29 Mar 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 220

United Kingdom 
Best thing I did on my two and quarter Lightweight was:
Powerspark electronic complete distributor. Remove old. Fit new.
New coil, leads and plugs
Ditch Weber and fitted a HIF44 SU carb on a HNJ Engineering adaptor kit
Retimed using a strobe and mixture tweaked using a Colourtune to guide
It now flies. I’d never go back to standard dizzy or a Weber/Solex/Zenith which are utter Censored compared to a reconditioned SU Thumbs Up




Click image to enlarge
 MY25 90 D350 X-Dynamic HSE in Silicon Silver and coil sprung
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many Range Rovers and Land Rovers over the years 😂
1949 80" - still in family since 1975
Post #1059136 31st Jan 2025 8:52pm
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1120

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Obviously if you buy a full kit your old dizzy will just be a spare on your shelf so no harm done. Ideally you have a timing light, but you can tune by ear, assuming your carb is correctly tuned (idle). With any carb you need to set timing such that the carb is comfortably in its idle circuit at idling

The original Zenith is simple, reliable and original (if you find that important). You need to make sure they are assembled right and tuned correctly and then they are absolutely solid and reliable with no backfire or dieseling

The SU carb as shown by Dr Rob is a superior carb, but you loose originality (air cleaner etc) and it will be a bit more of a fiddle and cost to fit.
Post #1059138 31st Jan 2025 9:48pm
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Devon-Rover



Member Since: 22 Jan 2015
Location: South Devon
Posts: 922

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Aintree Green

Click image to enlarge


without going too OT the zenith is nice but the warping that can happen and the throttle shaft leaks when the carb get's older is their only downside. Ran one for years but post rebuild alongside the other engine fiddling I went HNJ with a SU HIF44, and still standard air filter too can be done. Also can be found on Fb, Ytube, Insta & Twitter @4WDSouthwest
Post #1059157 1st Feb 2025 9:13am
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DrRob



Member Since: 29 Mar 2017
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 220

United Kingdom 
TexasRover wrote:
The SU carb as shown by Dr Rob is a superior carb, but you loose originality (air cleaner etc) and it will be a bit more of a fiddle and cost to fit.


HNJ do an additional adaptor for the air cleaner oil bath but I decluttered and went the cone air filter 1980s retro look Rolling with laughter MY25 90 D350 X-Dynamic HSE in Silicon Silver and coil sprung
1974 Series 3 Lightweight = "Millie"
Many Range Rovers and Land Rovers over the years 😂
1949 80" - still in family since 1975
Post #1059253 2nd Feb 2025 9:35am
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