 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Handbrake adjustment? Now sorted. |
 
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| munch90 Member Since: 26 Oct 2013 Location: guildford Posts: 3558  
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a lot on forum about handbrakes banging when slowing down on the tdci
they seem to be better with more than normal free play on the lever Last edited by munch90 on 31st Oct 2014 5:48pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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31st Oct 2014 4:45pm |
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| Lou Sparts Member Since: 15 Apr 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 1501  
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I always keep mine adjusted to come up three clicks, they don't need adjusting regularly as they are only in use when you are stationary and the shoes should not wear.
I have had the vibration when coming to a halt but this was down to the drum being full of mud ! 2005 Td5 90 XS Steve |
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31st Oct 2014 4:54pm |
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| V12vanquish Member Since: 28 Sep 2014 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 52 
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All good after a test drive today, no vibration or noise. Checked the drum after driving and no excessive heat, so no binding.
Handbrake is very good and only 3 clicks of lever travel. |
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1st Nov 2014 9:29pm |
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| tobias6 Member Since: 17 Jan 2025 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 9 
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Just piggybacking this thread. I’ve been trying to do this today, but when I turn the adjuster nut on the drum, it just keeps spinning and never locks the wheels. Managed to get it slightly tighter (4-5 clicks on the lever instead of 6) but not up to spec. Does this mean the adjuster mechanism has broken inside or the pads are knackered? Surely even if the pads were really worn you could get the friction eventually with the adjuster nut? 2010 D90 Hard Top Puma 2.4
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20th Jan 2025 12:08pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5769 
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The only way to know, properly, is to get the drum off. You know that really. Sorry.
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20th Jan 2025 12:16pm |
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| tobias6 Member Since: 17 Jan 2025 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 9
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Suppose you’re right .. was hoping to have the parts in hand before I start taking apart… but I’ll just have to have an explore .. or order shiny new parts anyway
 2010 D90 Hard Top Puma 2.4 |
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20th Jan 2025 12:19pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17516 
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The action of turning the adjuster nut (actually a bolt or machine screw) is screwing a wedge-shaped cam into the adjuster housing. There should come a point when the cam is pulled in tight against the backplate and you cannot turn the bolt any further, effectively it is "all the way in". It is possible (but unlikely) that this is still insufficient to lock the brake shoes against the drum, but if the bolt just keeps turning then either it or the cam (or both) has stripped threads and must be replaced. The WSM procedure for adjusting the handbrake is to release the lever, tighten the adjuster to 25 Nm (18 lbf ft) to fully expand and centralise the shoes, then back the adjuster off 1.1/2 full turns. At this point the drum should rotate freely. On a TDCi Defender it is often necessary to back the adjuster off a little more, perhaps 2 full turns, in order to prevent chattering, but the brake must apply fully before you run out of motion on the lever. |
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20th Jan 2025 12:47pm |
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| tobias6 Member Since: 17 Jan 2025 Location: Oxfordshire Posts: 9
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Great info, thank you 2010 D90 Hard Top Puma 2.4
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21st Jan 2025 1:09am |
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