 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Advice on this type of door rust? |
 
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2081  
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Sorry but it looks like you are going to need a new side frame assembly https://yrmit.co.uk/product/rhs-full-side-...or-5-door/
This is an expensive job , parts, stripping, fitting, welding, filling and painting. |
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10th Jan 2025 5:21pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1100  
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This paint coming off your were referring to, is it just on this post?
With a bit of luck it's just isolated maybe because someone messed with it. There are other areas that would more susceptible to corrosion |
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10th Jan 2025 5:28pm |
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| BrickBox Member Since: 05 Oct 2021 Location: Wales Posts: 847  
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I’m sure you can buy a ‘B’ frame on its own. Plus you can probably repair that section on its own. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS. |
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10th Jan 2025 5:31pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2081
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Agreed, however if that section is that bad I strongly suspect the rust is working its way from the bottom upwards and the horizontal components will be in a similar or worse condition
To check get under the vehicle and inspect with a torch. |
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10th Jan 2025 5:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20525
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I’d check it is solid externally, as needs repainting anyway, if it is solid, Dinitrol internally, presumably you can do that with some access with a internal application straw, then repaint the exterior, then sort the hinge out. If it isn’t solid, then replace might be the only option for an A1 job.
I’d be a bit worried about getting the SS hinge bolts out, hopefully the bolts were installed with a corrosion block for SS so they hopefully haven't seized. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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10th Jan 2025 6:27pm |
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| DSC-off Member Since: 16 Oct 2014 Location: North East Posts: 1436 
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Sorry to say it, but a look in the user's gallery does show extensive corrosion in the sills and pillar at both driver and passenger sides. Is this really a 2016 vehicle? Not much surprises me with Defenders, but this would on a 2016.  Click image to enlarge Getting back to the original question. The only advice I can offer is, do not think this is normal or acceptable when buying a Defender. No matter how many times you read or hear that Defenders rust and corrode, do not buy a bad one. Yes, virtually all of them will have some corrosion, but find out what a good one and an average one looks like, so you can avoid the worst. Unless you you know you're buying a rebuild project and plan to replace these parts. Sorry this doesn't help the OP, but hopefully it might help someone else looking to buy their first Defender. |
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11th Jan 2025 10:13am |
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| ickle Member Since: 22 Jul 2010 Location: South Vendee Posts: 1795 
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The script under the 110 icon says its a 200tdi - 1986?????
Might make more sense than a 2016! |
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11th Jan 2025 12:49pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2081
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In earlier posts on other topics the OP stated “I recently bought a defender 110 2014 reg” so it appears to be a 2014 Puma. The OP will likely confirm.
To have that level of corrosion in that area on a 2014 I suspect it has been near salt water or constantly caked in wet mud and not regularly hosed down with clean non contaminated water. Well worth taking to a body shop that specialise in defenders and getting a price for fitting new galvanised replacements, also seeing if that cost can be reduced by doing some of the stripping down and rebuild, leaving just the specialist work to the body shop. I would also get the body shop to give the whole vehicle an inspection, especially the bulkhead to see what additional work needs doing to get an overall assessment of costs prior to doing anything. |
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11th Jan 2025 1:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20525
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Bearing in mind that a body shop knows what to look for in detail, but also financially will also need to make a profit so are unlikely to suggest a quick / cheap fix.
The trouble is if parts do need replacing, it’s not just the cost of the part(s), but, the time and labour to replace, it’s often labour which is most costly. And some things do take quite a lot of time and labour to merely get at, the bulkhead being one of them. It’s internal corrosion that would concern me most, as when that appears externally it’s already too late. Which at least from my point of view, I prioritise internal cavity rustproofing as number one priority, and external after that. Both are important though. And yes, road salt and coastal areas are a very big aggravating factor, not just for general corrosion, but dissimilar metals corrosion, seizing and galling of threads with fixings. YRM are a good company for panels etc. No Guts, No Glory. 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 Last edited by custom90 on 11th Jan 2025 2:10pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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11th Jan 2025 1:46pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 2081
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I think you are looking at 12 - 15 hours per side, plus parts plus paint.
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11th Jan 2025 1:57pm |
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