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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Aftermarket Heated Seats, Wiring Diagram & Carling Switc
Hey all,

I hope we all had a fantastic Christmas and New years!.

So over the festive period I finally got a moment to pull my thumb out and give the defender some love. I changed out the seat foam, fitted some Lucari covers (which I can do a write up if people want as they are a smidge different from retro fitting exmoor trims) and finally installing a Waeco/Dometic heated seat wiring kit with Carling switches.

So the positives are that the exmoor foam foam is much an amazing upgrade in terms of comfort, the Lucari covers look amazing and fitting went relatively without a hitch and finally the wiring in looks like a factory finish which is what i was aiming for. Now using the Dometic (formely known as Waeco) the kit works and the seats get toasty and is an amazing upgrade during these colder months for sure...however I have a problem!!

So to start with the instructions for install for carling switches and the actual wiring kit are fairly pants!! So to start I modified the the wiring slightly one to include the carling switches and two to run the ground right back to the battery negative (as I am already running a positive from it, it made sense to run a descent ground back along the same run). Now as mentioned everything works and the seats warm up and the switches led's illuminate when the switch is engaged. All good so far I hear you say...yes...but I have found a couple of times on both seats (but not necessarily at the same time) that when I have had the seats on in either the high or low settings both of the LEDs on the switch illuminate! There doesn't seem to be a rhyme or reason as to when both switch LEDs come on after a while and again I can't seem to figure out a pattern of if it effects High or Low functions on either of the seats.

I just want to know what the hell could be going wrong and how I could troubleshot to find what is going array. It just seems strange that it works as it should for a good while and then just decides to light up both LEDs. Its really annoying as I took a good while trying to make sure everything was good when installing but I honestly can't work it out and think I need a real auto electric whizz to help me figure it out.

Anyhow now the conundrum is written out above, I have also created a full colour wiring diagram to show the exact wiring inclusive of carling switches to how mine is wired up using the slightly modified loom. If anyone is able to identify what the problem is I am more than happy to update the wiring diagram and have it pinned somewhere for everyones reference to make things hopefully a shed load easier for people in the future Very Happy


Click image to enlarge


Also I have attached a picture of one of the final seats installed with the buttons located on my centre console to which you can see my re-trimming guide I created for if you would like to do your own from scratch: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic92639.html


Click image to enlarge


Thanks in advance for any help.
Regards Blue
Post #1056396 5th Jan 2025 6:01pm
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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
So after having a chat with a colleague at work I definitely think both lights are turning on after a while potentially due to a power surge going backwards along the common Ground. So with that in mind adding in a separate ground for the switch/switches bulbs and running the negative return from the heater pads on another as per the updated diagram below...


Click image to enlarge


However looking at it a little more you can see that the direct power for the heater pads do go directly through the switch, so I had another reconfigure of the wiring for me to potentially update in the near future (I know two relays could be used one for low and one for high, but I am unsure where to get another capacitor similar to the one I already have to add in which would be needed so there isn't a surge, anyone who could help or shine some light on where to get one from would be amazing).


Click image to enlarge
Post #1056507 6th Jan 2025 10:43pm
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DSC-off



Member Since: 16 Oct 2014
Location: North East
Posts: 1436

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Hi,
The purpose of the relay in the original waeco/dometic circuit is so the heater pads cannot be left 'on' with the ignition 'off'. Switching of the power to high or low was always through the switches. I'm sure you're aware of this after what you've done so far.

If grounding the switch lights separately (circuit diagram 2) solves the problem, I'd be tempted to leave it at that.

I can see several potential issues with Circuit 3.
There is no ground for the trigger wire after the switches, other than through the indicator lights.
As drawn, both High and Low settings will be activated on BOTH seats simultaneously by turning either switch to high or low.
Just adding one more relay for high and low will still potentially turn both seats on at the same time.
To run the High / Low and Left / Right switching via relays, I think you'll be looking at 4 separate relays unless you get very creative and make things even more complicated.

I'm not sure what the capacitor is actually protecting.
edit Perhaps just the 30A fuse in the instance that both seats are left in the High position when the vehicle is turned on.
no, it's not that
Post #1056540 7th Jan 2025 10:46am
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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
DSC-off wrote:
Hi,
The purpose of the relay in the original waeco/dometic circuit is so the heater pads cannot be left 'on' with the ignition 'off'. Switching of the power to high or low was always through the switches. I'm sure you're aware of this after what you've done so far.

If grounding the switch lights separately (circuit diagram 2) solves the problem, I'd be tempted to leave it at that.

I can see several potential issues with Circuit 3.
There is no ground for the trigger wire after the switches, other than through the indicator lights.
As drawn, both High and Low settings will be activated on BOTH seats simultaneously by turning either switch to high or low.
Just adding one more relay for high and low will still potentially turn both seats on at the same time.
To run the High / Low and Left / Right switching via relays, I think you'll be looking at 4 separate relays unless you get very creative and make things even more complicated.

I'm not sure what the capacitor is actually protecting.
edit Perhaps just the 30A fuse in the instance that both seats are left in the High position when the vehicle is turned on.
no, it's not that


Thank you for the reply. I think you are absolutely right! For the time being I will add in the extra grounds to the carling switches for their internal lights.

However eventually I think I would like to create this version with 4 relays which would mean all the power would not fry the switches as much:



Click image to enlarge



Thanks again for your help, and I hope either versions of the wiring diagrams will be of help for others Smile
Post #1056567 7th Jan 2025 3:14pm
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