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Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Replacing Rear Trailing Arm Bushes and A-frame ball joint.
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Grenadier



Member Since: 23 Jul 2014
Location: The foot of Mont Blanc...
Posts: 5858

France 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Corris Grey
Replacing Rear Trailing Arm Bushes and A-frame ball joint.
Hello all,

As per the thread, keen to tackle replacing the rear trailing arm bushes (triangular ones fixed to the chassis) and the a-frame ball joint (full assembly).

In either/both instances, does the rear axle need to be jacked up, does the rear axle need to be hanging (with the chassis jacked up), or can the whole thing remain on the ground?

If either do need to be lifted, can you please tell me which one and why? Of the latter, so I can understand why and know what I’m looking for.

Ta Thumbs Up Monsieur Le Grenadier

I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list.....

2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey
Post #1055914 30th Dec 2024 2:34pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5864

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
From memory when I did my rear trailing arms I chocked the wheels and then did one arm at a time.
New bolts/nuts/washers/bushes(Gen LR).


I have not tackled the A Frame yet. 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1055916 30th Dec 2024 2:49pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 755

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
I would support the vehicle with axle stands under the chassis, you can then use the jack to maneuver the axle if necessary.
I'd do both arms at the same time, then the ball joint.
Post #1055919 30th Dec 2024 3:19pm
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34064



Member Since: 12 Dec 2023
Location: South Central
Posts: 200

United Kingdom 2003 Defender 110 Td5 HT Alaska White
When i did my A frame ball joint i jacked the tow bar and body away from the axle so i had a bit more room in there to get to the nut. 110 Td5 Ex Utilities slowly converting into a pop top camper one day

Build thread:https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1024784.html#1024784
Post #1055922 30th Dec 2024 3:43pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20487

United Kingdom 
I might be the only one but I had mine done for me, on a lift. It was a job I just didn’t fancy tackling. No Guts, No Glory.
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1055925 30th Dec 2024 4:09pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5741

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Easy job 👍🏻

Jack up via axle so wheels off the ground, support the body with axle stands on the chassis and then you can raise lower, manoeuvre the axle as required.
Post #1055928 30th Dec 2024 4:47pm
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piechipsandpeas



Member Since: 12 May 2021
Location: Albany, Western Australia
Posts: 216

Australia 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Indus Silver
For the trailing arm bushes keep the wheels on the ground and chocked. This prevents any movement of the axle, making it easy to align the trailing arm bush with the axle bracket when reinstalling.

Releasing the taper on the A-frame ball joint can be tricky, one way of doing it is to first wind the nut off by one or two turns only. Then using a trolley jack and suitable piece of timber located under the A-frame, just in front of the axle and as close to the ball joint start to raise the jack. The taper should release before the wheels are off the ground (this is where it's important to only have the nut loosened by one or two turns, and certainly not removed altogether). Then remove the jack and wind the nut off the rest of the way and remove and replace the ball joint assembly, again with the wheels chocked and on the ground to prevent any rotation of the axle.
Post #1055988 31st Dec 2024 2:34pm
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