DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - 2013 Defender immobiliser won't disarm, key fob doesn't work

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Technical > 2013 Defender immobiliser won't disarm, key fob doesn't work

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

dizeeduckie

Member Since: 10 Sep 2021
Location: London
Posts: 58

2013 Defender immobiliser won't disarm, key fob doesn't work

Our 2013 Defender 90 hasn't been driven for several months. It now won't start nor even turn over. At first I thought it was the battery, so replaced it (if relevant, it had no battery at all for a couple of weeks as the alarm went off and the fob wouldn't stop it, so I disconnected the battery until the new one arrived).

New battery in, but it still won't turn over. I noticed the alarm light on the dash stays solid red and also the key fob wouldn't work the central locking - and remembered that a few weeks ago it wouldn't stop the alarm. So I replaced the battery in the fob. Still nothing.

Can anyone recommend a course of action? I've tried clicking the lock button on the fob several times to "re-connect" but no joy.

3rd Dec 2024 12:37pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2027

It is very likely that Your fob (s) have lost synchronisation with your alarm ECU. Which could be a 10AS unit or the later ALM CHxxxx serial number unit.

The fob resync process. = With doors shut press the fob lock button 4 times in quick succession, then the unlock button. Doors should unlock and fob is synchronised.

If It it does not work you will need to reprogram the fobs to the alarm unit. This can be done with dealer diagnostic tools, a Nanocom for a Puma, or a Gap IIDTool. Best to see if a nearby member with a Nanocom can help, it’s a simple process.

If that does not work and you have the ALM CHxxxx serial number unit then as your battery slowly drained it could have caused the brownout issues associated with that unit. At that point you need to talk with remotekey to see if they can repair the unit or you need their replacement unit.

3rd Dec 2024 1:44pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20418

The battery voltage on the vehicle could be very low too, preventing a proper sync process.

If I remember right it won’t matter if you press lock or unlock multiple times as long as you chose one or the other only and as mentioned the doors should be shut.
Sitting in the drivers seat with the doors shut is the ideal place to do it, but if you can’t get near there is best.

You press it approx 4 times in rapid succession, then the indicators will flash, and the red dash light flash very fast, then the flash rate will slow down to slower after about 30 seconds.
Then you can press unlock just once to disarm it and then start it after the glow plugs light extinguished.
Providing the vehicle battery is in a good state and voltage without issues and there is no grounding problems. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

3rd Dec 2024 2:46pm

dizeeduckie

Member Since: 10 Sep 2021
Location: London
Posts: 58

The battery is brand new - shows 12.64v with a meter which should be ok?

3rd Dec 2024 3:27pm

dizeeduckie

Member Since: 10 Sep 2021
Location: London
Posts: 58

Ianh wrote:

The fob resync process. = With doors shut press the fob lock button 4 times in quick succession, then the unlock button. Doors should unlock and fob is synchronised.

Thanks for this. Tried your sequence but nothing happens. Will try and find someone to reprogram.

3rd Dec 2024 3:27pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20418

That voltage is fine, so long as there isn’t extreme drop on cranking or a high impedance ground.

A Nanocom is good.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

3rd Dec 2024 5:54pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2027

dizeeduckie wrote:
Ianh wrote:

The fob resync process. = With doors shut press the fob lock button 4 times in quick succession, then the unlock button. Doors should unlock and fob is synchronised.

Thanks for this. Tried your sequence but nothing happens. Will try and find someone to reprogram.

In your drivers footwell you have a speaker. Remove the speaker , now look up through the aperture and you will see either a green 10AS unit or a black ALM unit.
If the green 10AS then reprogramming the fobs will likely resolve the issue. If the ALM unit then potentially reprogramming fobs will work, however it may be a brown out fault on the ALM unit. Which will require fixing or replacement.

Put a message out asking if anyone nearby has a Puma licensed Nanocom and can help program fobs. That will keep costs down.

Ps what area of London are you in ?

4th Dec 2024 12:01am

Julie

Member Since: 07 Oct 2017
Location: Nantes
Posts: 496

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Keswick Green

dizeeduckie wrote:
The battery is brand new - shows 12.64v with a meter which should be ok?

My truck sometimes has problems with other car fobs that interfere.

Then I have to send the open/lock signal from a position very close to the 10AS box i.e. I have to put the fob on top of the bonnet, very close to the windscreen.

Since JLR did not reserve a proper space, the fob uses a space open to everybody. I believe others sometimes have stronger signals that hinder my fob to communicate with the 10AS. If I move the truck elsewhere, everything will be fine again ...

16th Dec 2024 3:25pm

Ianh

Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2027

dizeeduckie was the problem resolved ?

17th Dec 2024 7:02pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum