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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
200tdi turbo to manifold studs
Hey all, so getting round to changing the gasket on the turbo to manifold and I thought it would be an opportune moment to change out the studs to 316 stainless steel pieces to help with getting it off in the future. So my question is does anybody know if there is a pre-existing kit for this? And secondly if not don’t suppose anyone knows what the size of the studs are and what nut type is used? (Im pretty sure you aren’t supposed to have washers in but please correct me if I’m wrong). Any help would be much appreciated 😁
Post #1052299 20th Nov 2024 1:17pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
I believe they are M8 x 25. Standard nuts, no nylocks.

One thing I will advise is not use stainless. Its weak. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1052305 20th Nov 2024 2:42pm
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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Thanks for that, really appreciate it.

I wanted to use stainless but as I say not just 304 (which is your A2 grade) but more over 316 (marine grade which has much better strength properties).
Post #1052309 20th Nov 2024 2:51pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
Actually both 304, or as you well said A2, and 316, A4 grade, both come in either 70 or 80, which is their respective tensile strength. The 80 is less common, and is still almost half the strength of a 10.9 bolt/stud.

Stainless steel is prone to galling, and while a steel bolt may seize due to rust, stainless may seize due to galling.

When I was younger and less knowledgeable about materials (not that I am now), I mounted my alternator with stainless steel bolts. Needless to say, it fell off, although did take a few years to happen. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1052327 20th Nov 2024 6:29pm
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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
What about something more exotic like grade 5 titanium?
I’ve found a chap on fleabay that sells some but didn’t know if the size would be alright:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114056592306
Post #1052357 20th Nov 2024 9:12pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3414

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
No experience with titanium. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1052376 21st Nov 2024 6:31am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17414

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
What's wrong with the standard studs? Have you actually had difficulty with them in the past?
Post #1052382 21st Nov 2024 8:20am
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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
I haven’t but the chat, but sometimes helps me out on my engine bits and bobs has. I think it’s just a case that I’d like to try and future proof as much as possible and I know I could use copper grease and other various bits and pieces but if I can try and mitigate Any potential problems by future proofing I’ll always try. I do intend to keep my truck for a very long while
Post #1052384 21st Nov 2024 8:26am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17414

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Over the years I have had no issues with standard studs (on any vehicle of any type). Agreed that they do sometimes need replacing during overhauls, but the only actual failure I have ever had was a warped TD5 manifold shearing one stud on my Disco2. That would have happened earlier with stainless since it has a lower tensile strength, and removing the broken stud would probably had been more difficult.

My personal choice for manifold studs is always to stick with standard materials, they do the job and are a known quantity.

I have had many problems with stainless fasteners (especially on my Patriot rack) and actually hate the things with a passion!
Post #1052400 21st Nov 2024 11:27am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5720

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
At least with a normal stud they can be cut, and drilled out with ease if anything does go wrong.
Post #1052401 21st Nov 2024 11:40am
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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Hmmm I think guys may be right. I just hear horror story’s of getting the studs out or the nuts off the studs.
Post #1052404 21st Nov 2024 11:48am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5720

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
I would definitely recommend GOOD quality nuts, there is a big difference in what you can get.
Post #1052405 21st Nov 2024 12:01pm
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Blue Blood



Member Since: 14 Jun 2022
Location: Shropshire
Posts: 122

United Kingdom 1990 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Bonatti Grey
Do you have any you’d recommend? Or material type?
Post #1052406 21st Nov 2024 12:05pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17414

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I used Wurth studs on my TD5.
Post #1052407 21st Nov 2024 12:08pm
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2235

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
Mild steel studs and flanged copper nuts are used in other exhaust type applications.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #1052410 21st Nov 2024 12:25pm
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