 | Home > Td5 > Defender 2001 TD5 90 Engine died at 60mph |
 
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| MC84 Member Since: 22 May 2016 Location: Near Bristol Posts: 354   
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Hi, any thoughts on the issue I have at the moment? Driving on the motorway the engine died, no error lights in the dash. I coasted to the hard shoulder and while waiting for the RAC I pulled a few relays and checked connector but found nothing silly. RAC man sprayed ether in the air ways and the truck would run so long as he sprayed. I got low loaded home and here it sits. I've a Nanocom that showed no errors apart from the usual for the truck such as aircon issues etc (I don't have aircon) I though I might have seen a crank sensor error, but no, even when pulling the cable from the crank sensor. I thought the Nanocom would have seen this. Should it? I've replaced the sensor, and the cables look good but the fault remains. I have enough fuel for 100miles and the pump was replaced 7 years ago. I'm getting about 100ml flow for every 3 seconds the ignition is on from the high pressure pipe that feeds the regulator block when pulled off. I'm unable to check fuel pressure. I've purged the system a few times (ign on and 4/5 pushes on the acc peddle) Pump fires up but I do get an air related sound when its priming.
Any pointer would be great, thanks in advance  Mike
Hard Top 90 TD5 2001 Ford 100e 1959 www.youtube.com/mikemakesit |
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11th Nov 2024 7:03pm |
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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1034  
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I had an occasional non start on my Td5, today it happened again and as it cranked I saw the rev counter jump up and down. Connected up nanocom and went to the setting where the rpm are shown and was showing 0 while cranking.
Disconnected the crank sensor and from below the car stripped back the cable and found a poorly executed splice. Cleaned up, fixed with proper heat shrink with the glue inside. Plugged in and fired right up. Chech if your rpms on nanocom are nice and steady, if not look at your crank sensor and wiring |
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11th Nov 2024 8:35pm |
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| Printerjohn Member Since: 12 Mar 2024 Location: Poole Dorset Posts: 18 
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I had non start problem, turned out to be fuel pump. I could hear fuel pump which had been replaced by previous owner with an aftermarket pump 6 months previously. Found it was fuel pump by removing the associated fuse and replacing by multimeter on 20A range. Good fuel pump should draw around 11A, mine was 4A. Replaced with OEM pump, current draw was then correct, and engine started after carrying out priming. May be worth checking.
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12th Nov 2024 11:42am |
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| MC84 Member Since: 22 May 2016 Location: Near Bristol Posts: 354
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Just as an update, I stripped out the tank to find the pump blocked by rubbish that was in the tank, almost slime like. I had replaced the pump 7 years ago and gave the tank areal good clean then although in that case the pump was shot, maybe this time it might be repaired. I'm fitting a new one now anyway. Unfortunately now the tank is out I can see some quite worrying rust that was hidden
 Mike
Hard Top 90 TD5 2001 Ford 100e 1959 www.youtube.com/mikemakesit |
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14th Nov 2024 6:58pm |
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| htb2 Member Since: 02 Nov 2018 Location: Carmarthenshire Posts: 528 
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You say, pump was covered in slime?, like black silicon, if so prob got diesel bug, best to treat for it or it will be back.
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14th Nov 2024 8:02pm |
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