 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Front/Rear wheel bearing nut conversion |
 
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| Will@LRW Member Since: 04 May 2019 Location: UK Posts: 173  
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I'll be exclusively using the single nuts from now on. Every year or two a couple of the hubs on my 300Tdi (with the double nuts) will have play (<4000 miles), and I always re-tighten following the workshop procedure. So I constantly seem to have long brake pedal travel. It may be cheap lock washers that don't grip and let the nuts loosen, or it may be operator error and I need to remove myself from the equation!
I was surprised last year at just how affordable the spacers are now, and the one that came off is likely the one that will go back on. The double nuts are still the pragmatic solution for a roadside repair, but I'd be starting an extended journey with the single nuts. It's easy to swap from one to the other with the same tools you'd use for each (e.g. 52mm socket and breaker bar). Good video here from trailerfitter on the subject ?si=l4qdKLU3LTpAtqy- LR Workshop Find a Defender's history and spec: https://defender.lrworkshop.com |
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22nd Jun 2024 10:47am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 10  
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I have started to develop a genuine distaste for the one nut system over the last couple of month. I think it is mainly due to that I don't have the proper tools for the job. Only a box socket in my tool box at the moment and that won't go a long way when trying to undo a nut that has been sitting there untouched for 17 years. But also due the risk of damaging the stub axle when undoing the nut.
Regarding durability going from my own experience I am not sure the spacer system add life to the bearings, not because it is not superior to the two nut system to set the correct pre-load, but because the weakest link seams to be the gaskets/seals. If you get water and dirt in to the bearings they will give up. I bought my current 110 with 130000 km on the clock and both sides in the rear had been replaced earlier and soon my front left gave up, all rusted and sounding like a duck.  On my previous 110, also 2007 Puma with similar mileage I think I replaced 2. Very dirty and rusted.
Even if we could give the bearings eternal life, at some point you'll need to change the brake discs, as I have to now, or get to the swivel, or replace the CV-joint. To then need to have 1 or 2 spare stub axles, just in case, just because of the one nut seems ridiculous. Maybe not if you can have parts delivered the next day but not everyone has that luxury. LR dealers in Sweden seem to have no parts in stock and for them to get them from LR has a 3-4 weeks lead time, so that is out of the question. Ordering directly from one of the many suppliers in UK still has a week of lead time. Regarding adjustment on the 2 nut system. I did it on my 300 Tdi but only if I detected play shortly after changing them. To me that indicated that I hadn't loaded them correctly, the disadvantage of that system. But if your bearings starts to have play after years in service, I am with Retroanaconda, they can't be adjusted and need to be replaced. For these reasons I now sit on a cache of two-nuts and lock washers to use when I replace the brakes. Sourced them from Paddock together with everything else, didn't think there was any dubious quality nuts but upon reading here it seems some are better than others. What should I be looking for? |
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21st Oct 2024 10:19am |
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| Merlin Member Since: 30 Oct 2010 Location: Newmarket Posts: 981 
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I changed to the two nut set-up years ago and I think it's a myth that this is better.
I've changed back now as adjusting doesn't seem to make any difference to how long the bearing last. My advice is save your money. Peter |
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21st Oct 2024 1:17pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5613 
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Switched all mine across to two nut system. Far better if you know what you are doing, especially if doing it whilst curb side. I hate the idea of a stake nut, and the winding off of a nut along a thread that has a damaged thread. Jus5 waiting for the stub axles to be damaged.
These are a nice kit. https://www.triple4engineering.co.uk/Land-...ent-Spec-1 |
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21st Oct 2024 8:02pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 10
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I loosened the nut at work tonight and it took an effort even with proper tools.
 Click image to enlarge I then spent some time cleaning the axle and nut until I could thread it with fingers only. Axle seems fine. I think one can be happy with both systems but you’ll need proper tools for the job. If going on a long trip with the one nut system I would probably replace the nuts prior. Then you can handle them curb side with a torque wrench of the right size. For now, I will be converting. |
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21st Oct 2024 9:12pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7954  
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Why can't you use a spacer and the double nut method to secure it?. No thread damage then on hub removal. Or can ypu not get the torque on single thin nut? Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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21st Oct 2024 9:36pm |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 10
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I don't think that would work. Too few threads in contact for the axial force. Risk to damage the threads as you torque it.
But what about staking the nut just a bit on the outer edge? I can't see a need to go bananas with the staking. The nut is already torqued to 210Nm, with my limited real life experience I can't see how it will come loose even without staking. There is no torque effecting it during operation, only vibrations and the axial force from the compressed spacer is considerable. That would minimize the risk of thread damage. Any thoughts? The remaining problem then is the high torque required, especially to break a nut that has been there for a while. I estimate that I applied 800-1000Nm to break it yesterday and I needed the extension bar for the first full turn. Also, to prevent this debacle: Click image to enlarge I am thinking of adding a line to the maintenance schedule every second year or so: Undo drive member, clean and change gasket, grease splines. Undo hub nut and lubricate to prevent rust. It might even prolong the life of the bearings. |
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22nd Oct 2024 10:15am |
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