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yeco



Member Since: 25 Apr 2023
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 8

Costa Rica 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Cairns Blue
Need Help Diagnosing Noise at Low-Speed (Under 20 kmh)
Hi all,

I’m hoping someone can help me figure out a strange issue on my Defender. There’s a noise that only happens at low speeds, specifically under 20 km/h. We’ve gone through all the usual checks but still haven’t been able to pinpoint the cause, Brakes (pads, discs, and calipers – all good), Transfer box, Clutch, etc. Everything seems fine, yet the noise persists.

I’ve put together a YouTube playlist with a few clips showing the noise from both inside and outside the car. Hopefully, it helps someone spot what we’re missing!

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLF8...JmMEVcztwM

Has anyone encountered something like this, or do you have any suggestions on what else I should check? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers for your help in advance!
Post #1049110 18th Oct 2024 11:44pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5708

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Have you tried applying slight pressure on the park brake whilst checking for the noise?

I think noise is park brake being too tight

Other options would be Rear diff, or Prop shaft. Have you removed the rear prop, checked it, and test drive with it removed.
Post #1049114 19th Oct 2024 3:21am
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yeco



Member Since: 25 Apr 2023
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 8

Costa Rica 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Cairns Blue
Hi, we’ve already adjusted and loosened the handbrake, but it’s still making the same noise.

Thank you for taking the time to watch the videos and respond. Tomorrow, we’ll be opening the rear differential to inspect it.
Post #1049119 19th Oct 2024 6:23am
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yeco



Member Since: 25 Apr 2023
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 8

Costa Rica 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Cairns Blue
Hi, we’ve already adjusted and loosened the handbrake, but it’s still making the same noise.

Thank you for taking the time to watch the videos and respond. Tomorrow, we’ll be opening the rear differential to inspect it.
Post #1049120 19th Oct 2024 6:23am
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sharkey964



Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: On a muddy track
Posts: 574

France 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
It's definitely something that is turning,so,if you haven't already,check U/J's,wheel bearings,diff something stuck in the tread of the tyre?
Good luck
Marc
Post #1049123 19th Oct 2024 8:42am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5708

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
You could try running with park brake drum off.

But as a low speed and constant noise it would try running vehicle when raised so wheels turning off the ground. Possibly a section of diff missing. Oil in rear diff may show that. To test prop fully it needs to be removed anyway so might as well check diff, and every thing else. Whilst dismantling the rear end you could remove rear drive shafts, then test for noise. Then remove rear prop, test for noise and so on.
Post #1049129 19th Oct 2024 9:58am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
I can’t listen to the video now, but check the A frame bushes and ball joint too.

If you really do suspect the handbrake drum see what condition the shoes are in. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1049136 19th Oct 2024 12:31pm
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 784

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Hi

It could be a part of the friction material that has detached from one of the brake shoes in the handbrake assembly?

Jim
Post #1049139 19th Oct 2024 12:43pm
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yeco



Member Since: 25 Apr 2023
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 8

Costa Rica 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Cairns Blue
Thanks for all the input! We've already checked the brake drum and the prop shaft, but unfortunately, that didn’t solve it. We also tested the vehicle off the ground, and we noticed the noise only happens when it's on the ground, not when suspended. Any other thoughts on what could be causing this? We’re planning to continue troubleshooting, so all ideas are appreciated!
Post #1049239 20th Oct 2024 5:25pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
Just had a look at the videos and a listen, I would consider fully checking the prop shaft UJ’s by taking off one end from the flange and fully articulating the joint.

On the second video, looking at the UJ bearing cups there spinning it seems to be one, that appears to be very corroded / rusty on the cap.

I would suspect it might be possible, that the roller bearings have gone to roller bearing heaven.
Possibly only one cup…

If that is the case, then attempting to regrease won’t work, but you could try that anyway just too see if there is any difference at all, if there is then it’s even more likely to be that.
It could be the diff pinion bolt that has been worked loose too, possibly by the above but either way those UJ’s do look dry.
Are the grease nipples / zerks in place?

Even if you do try to grease, the grease won’t get into the bearings if any are present as it’ll take the course of least resistance as the 4x bearing cups share the same central grease input and not into each bearing cup. Assuming it’s a genuine or standard type prop.

Another possibility is a broken halfshaft, which is a lot easier to diagnose if on the rear than on the front.
Just some ideas. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1049242 20th Oct 2024 6:11pm
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yeco



Member Since: 25 Apr 2023
Location: Costa Rica
Posts: 8

Costa Rica 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Cairns Blue
Hello again!

Thanks again for your help! You were right, the problem is with the handbrake. We noticed that only one side of the drum heats up, and when we removed the handbrake, the sound disappeared.

However, we’ve replaced the brake pads and had the drum checked, but the issue remains. My mechanic mentioned that the handbrake has to be left completely loose for the noise to stop. Even with just a slight adjustment, the noise comes back.

He also removed the yoke (?) from the transfer case, where the drum sits, to check for any possible deformities that might be forcing it to one side, but we still see only one part of the drum heating up.

If anyone has more ideas, they’re very appreciatived and welcome!
Post #1049599 23rd Oct 2024 11:36pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17390

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
What does "had the drum checked" mean? What parameters were checked?

If as you say only one side of the drum is heating up, it suggests very strongly to me that either the drum is out-of-round or the drum is eccentrically mounted. Either should be fairly easy to check although the method may vary according to the equipment you have available.

Failing that why not just replace the drum?
Post #1049622 24th Oct 2024 9:00am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20382

United Kingdom 
I think Blackwolf could well be right that the drum might be out of balance, or not true and not perfectly round.
That’s probably because it may have got excessively hot and warped or had a bash from something putting it out of round. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
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Post #1049635 24th Oct 2024 11:13am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17390

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Or it could be Britpart. Rolling Eyes
Post #1049650 24th Oct 2024 1:52pm
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