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Guinness



Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: Scotland
Posts: 55

United Kingdom 
Removing fuse blade
Hi all,

Last night I noticed that my brake light wasnt working and quickly identified that the fuse decided to melt ( I think due to corrosion from a damp lifestyle). Unfortunately one of the blades of said fuse snapped off in the box. Does anyone know of a handy way/tool that could be used to remove the reminents. The fuse box is the one in front of the the gear stick on a TD5.

Click image to enlarge
Post #1047846 6th Oct 2024 8:12am
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 838

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Youโ€™ll have to disconnect the battery before you go putting anything (metal) in the fuse holder. The only thing that comes to mind is a tweezers or something with tiny pullers. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #1047849 6th Oct 2024 8:45am
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LR Nuts



Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 1143

 
because of the burnt spade end, it may have welded itself to the fuse box ?? Crying or Very sad
Post #1047857 6th Oct 2024 10:38am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20441

United Kingdom 
The safest way would be to try and unlock the pin from the block holder, they usually have a tab that locks them in, and the the fuse post slides into the receptacle.

It might have melted into the fuse holder / block though that is the trouble but, if need be you probably can even get a new terminal if you need to as long as you can get it to fit the block okay.

The locking tabs are probably best accessed from the top rather than rear, as mentioned isolate power first from the entire block.
The locking tabs will either be one side of the female spade or both sides opposite one another.

Youโ€™ll need a thin piece of metal like a knife blade that isnโ€™t sharp to get it down the side that is small unsought of you can buy connector key sets that one can be useful for.

Those are ATO blade fuses which is the most common on the market, you just need to identify the connector type and locking tab style.

Somewhere like 3 way components will likely have them.

Good luck. Thumbs Up $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #1047868 6th Oct 2024 11:25am
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PaulMc



Member Since: 17 Jan 2009
Location: Kent
Posts: 502

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Arles Blue
The TD5 and Puma dash fuse boxes use 10-fuse (20-way) Lear (Grote and Hartmann) fuse blocks.

As well as locking tangs on the terminals -


Click image to enlarge


They have a secondary locking bar, which must be removed before you can release the terminals -


Click image to enlarge


If you need replacement terminals, I have some compatible Grote and Hartmann terminals, detailed here -

https://www.defender2.net/forum/post145671.html#145671

. Paul.
1989 Arles Blue 2.5TD 110 Hardtop
1999 Epsom Green Discovery II 4.0 V8i 'XS'
Post #1047899 6th Oct 2024 4:38pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20441

United Kingdom 
There is the perfect solution from Paul. Mr. Green $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
๐Ÿ‡ฌ๐Ÿ‡ง๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐Ÿด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐Ÿ‡ฎ๐Ÿ‡ช๐Ÿ‡บ๐Ÿ‡ธโ›ฝ๏ธ๐Ÿ›ข๏ธโš™๏ธ๐Ÿงฐ๐Ÿ’ช
Post #1047901 6th Oct 2024 4:41pm
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Guinness



Member Since: 04 Mar 2021
Location: Scotland
Posts: 55

United Kingdom 
Thank you very much, ill have a look at this over the weekend!
Post #1047952 7th Oct 2024 12:43pm
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