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Tea_and_Biology



Member Since: 03 Jun 2024
Location: Oxford
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
2.4 Puma (2007) Not Starting
Help!

My Defender won't start all of a sudden. Turn the key, hear several clicking sounds (from within the fuse box, else behind the dash (?)), but otherwise nothing. The battery seems fine - Lights, AC, radio etc. all work. I did have a third-party immobiliser installed by LR Tracker last week, but I've disconnected that as far as I can tell. There were no issues with the starter motor beforehand (usually you can tell if they're on the way out, no?); and according to the diagnostics in the Haynes Manual (no dipping lights when turning the key) it's likely a power connection issue to the motor (i.e. it's simply not getting power, not that it's getting power and not cranking).

I'm currently stuck in a field in the middle of deepest, darkest Somerset. I don't know anyone around here; no chance for a bump start, and the local garage a few miles away in the nearest village is closed for the weekend. Been sleeping in the Landy since Friday, trying desperately to solve this.

So far I've tried:

- Disconnecting battery; cleaning corrosion/gunk from the terminals and reconnecting.
- Checked the mega 300A fuse on the + terminal - all fine.
- Resetting the standard immobiliser/alarm etc. and all that. Seems like it's functioning normally.
- The third-party immobiliser had the red/white wire in the fuse box cut and attached to various wires; I undid this modification by sealing both ends of the cut red/white wire back together again. It's now disconnected, I think.
- Reading some other posts here, I went into the fuse box, removed the starter relay and, with a short length of wire, tried connecting the brown/red wire to the red/white, else the white/brown and grey/brown wires. All I get is a click. Have a video, but can't seem to upload.
- Truth be told I've not really been able to find many images of where the starter motor is online, and what I have found looks nothing like what's in / under my engine bay. I'd give the motor a good whack if I could confirm where it is... else presumably check the connections?

I've also read it could be due to some earthing issues, but I have no idea what I'd be looking for - again, lack of images or guides online.

Any suggestions, please? Attached a few photos. I have a multimeter but I've never used one before and could do with some guidance on what I should be prodding and looking out for.

For context, this is my first car, that I've owned for maybe a month now. I'm very new to all this mechanical-fangly-engineering-ey business, and I'm learning.

Help me, Defender2.net, you're my only hope!

____

Inside of my fuse box:


Click image to enlarge


Engine bay where the starter motor should be, from above:


Click image to enlarge


And below:


Click image to enlarge


Thanks for reading!
Post #1047142 29th Sep 2024 12:09am
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 754

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
Morning

Is your starter motor clicking when you turn the key? If you are getting a click or "thunk" then my best guess would be stuck starter motor or battery.

For the starter motor a sharp hit with a piece of 4X2 sometimes jolts it free. With the battery, If you can find anyone with jump leads and try a quick jump start.

I know that we have a few forum members down in Somerset / West Country so when it reaches a more reasonable hour you may find that one is near to you who might be willing to pop out and help.

Maybe put your What 3 Words location up?

Jim
Post #1047152 29th Sep 2024 4:40am
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jim4244



Member Since: 13 Apr 2014
Location: Bedfordshire
Posts: 754

England 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver
I take it that you are not a member of Green Flag, the AA or similar?

Jim
Post #1047157 29th Sep 2024 7:33am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 995

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
You tried prodding, now you need to systematically diagnose:

Symptom: No starter motor action. How is your battery? The start gets permanent 12v straight from the battery on the big terminal. Is there 12 v there? Then it gets a crank 12v signal on the smaller connection which operates the solenoid that starts the starter. Does it get voltage. If yes then most likely starter kaput. If no I would suspect the new immobilizer is suspect, which normally also interrupts the running of the engine so jumping start probably not going to work.

If you have limited skills and experience, recovery is probably your best option. Is there no farmer that can pull you out of that field? Roadside recovery normally don't venture off tarmac.
Post #1047160 29th Sep 2024 8:50am
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 454

United Kingdom 
you would have to suspect the immobiliser work you have had done.. most probably one of its aims was to disable the starting circuit, by possibly not allowing the starter motor relay to operate.. I think that is normally allowed to switch via the ecu..
it sounds like you have a battery that should be capable of doing something if its solenoid did get a feed so you are back to that starter relay ..I don't know its location but its likely fed by a largish fuse (30A )which if gone would prevent the starter motor solenoid getting a feed...worth checking...
if the starter motor is anything like the one on the 2.2l engine its buried low down and not what id want to be prodding around the contacts with anything metallic, without having a good view of what I was doing..
hope you get sorted, and hopefully get the installing firm to resolve the issue
Post #1047173 29th Sep 2024 11:34am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20201

United Kingdom 
Check battery clamps are tight and that grounds on the transmission are tight especially for the battery negative.

Failing that, you’ll have to get someone like the RAC to recover you, even if you don’t have cover you can still request it but you then have to cover costs.
If you have a duff starter, then you can be bump started.

Clicking is normally a very high impedance ground or live direct from the battery, in other words a poor connection often caused by a loose connection, there is a fuse in the positive post casing on the battery as well, all connections need to be secure both live and ground. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1047187 29th Sep 2024 1:40pm
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Tea_and_Biology



Member Since: 03 Jun 2024
Location: Oxford
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
Thanks for all the comments and suggestions so far! Much appreciated.

Okay, so ignition on, tested the battery (connections are tight, and all fuses are fine) and the red/white wire into the relay, and brown/red wire post-relay. 12V on all.


Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


I don't really know what these are (except reading other threads, they're important); the circuit schematics I have aren't colour-coordinated with the wiring, nor do the wires seem to have codes printed on them. I'm assuimg the red/white is C0151-85/NW.4.0D (?) coming from the switch-ignition and the brown/red is C0151-87/NR.2.5D (?) which eventually goes to the motor itself?

Are there schematics / diagrams for the earth connections? I'd like to check, clean, and reattach all of these but I don't know what I'm looking for. They're just black wires connected via bolts to bare metal?

In other news, apparently there's a black reset button on the green AS10 box that might be worth a push; best advice for getting access, or must I continue to remove the entire dashboard? Can't quite reach it after removing the front speaker.


Click image to enlarge


Also tried replacing the battery in the key fob.

Alas, no green flag and given I'm on private land without help for a bump/tow still, can't get it onto the road for breakdown cover.


Last edited by Tea_and_Biology on 29th Sep 2024 4:20pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1047202 29th Sep 2024 4:09pm
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jbcollier



Member Since: 29 Apr 2024
Location: Edmonton AB
Posts: 64

Canada 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alpine White
12.1 resting voltage at the battery? It is dead/discharged and you need a boost.
Post #1047204 29th Sep 2024 4:19pm
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Tea_and_Biology



Member Since: 03 Jun 2024
Location: Oxford
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
Ahhhh, forgive my ignorance; I had assumed given the A/C, GPS tracker, radio and everything else was working, that the battery was fine. Hadn't clocked that things can still run below 12.6V or whatever is usually sufficient to turn the starter. I have jump leads and a donor vehicle; should be okay. Fingers crossed!

Thanks!

___

Update: Wouldn't jump start, and slowly charging via jump leads for several hours isn't particularly viable. Will dissassemble and walk into the village with the battery for a proper charge tomorrow morning. Cheers!


Last edited by Tea_and_Biology on 29th Sep 2024 7:19pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1047206 29th Sep 2024 4:28pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20201

United Kingdom 
Yeah, battery is on about 10% of its capacity so it seems you’ve had some excessive battery drain at rest.
Probably caused by what was fitted.

Click image to enlarge


Once sorted you’ll need to have the source of the parasitic current drain at rest, tracked down by testing.
For now you need a battery jump start. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨‍🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧
Post #1047215 29th Sep 2024 5:28pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 454

United Kingdom 
If jump starting doesn't work..ie not turning over you are likely back to the failure of the supply from the starter relay to the starter motor solenoid..
The switching of which is ecu controlled i believe..
Post #1047228 29th Sep 2024 8:00pm
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Tea_and_Biology



Member Since: 03 Jun 2024
Location: Oxford
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
Battery charged; still nothing. The starter relay in the fuse box is no longer clicking, but there's plenty of current running through at least to the red/brown wire.



Click image to enlarge




Click image to enlarge




How would I check there's current running to the starter motor itself? I can vaguely see a red positive terminal and another black wire (earth?) screwing into it; poke it there? Apparently there's should also be another smaller wire running into it, but I can't see it - any insight into what it'd look like (colour)?

Whacking the starter with a 2x4 didn't help.

The local garage helped charge the battery, but they're undermanned and chock busy for days and can't get out to bump start nor tow my vehicle, even into the road for breakdown cover. Hmmm...
Post #1047281 30th Sep 2024 2:49pm
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andy63



Member Since: 30 Jun 2023
Location: north east
Posts: 454

United Kingdom 
Hmm the garage are been really helpful 😫
Might pay to seek out a local farmer to get you on to tarmac..

The back of the starter will have 3 terminals..one will be the connection to the battery and alternator and will be in the form of aa heavy duty metal bus bar its covered by red plastic cover usually.... the other large stud will have a braided wire running into the starter motor from the solenoid.. that becomes live if the solenoid pulls in..
There is a smaller 3rd terminal which is connected to the starter relay and actuates the solenoid..that's the stud or connection you need to establish is or isn't getting a supply when you try to start....i think its path to that stud is from round the back os the inlet manifold..
all earth's are through to the block

I think you really need to know where this 3rd party immobiliser is connected into the circut or at least contact them and ask if it is designed to prevent starting..
Good luck..
Post #1047285 30th Sep 2024 3:04pm
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Tea_and_Biology



Member Since: 03 Jun 2024
Location: Oxford
Posts: 10

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Aintree Green
Alrighty; thanks for the help. Shall go digging.

I did disconnect the third-party immobiliser and GPS tracker completely; though perhaps during installation the engineer didn't quite wrap a vehicle cable fully or knock loose an earth or something, hence some excessive discharge from the battery.

I'll otherwise walk into the village and ask around if anyone has a tow rope and a spare few minutes. At least once on the road I can then get breakdown assistance and a lift several hundred miles back home!

And to think I was supposed to have finished this camper conversion and be heading off to Dakar this coming weekend... !
Post #1047287 30th Sep 2024 3:22pm
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revd



Member Since: 20 Apr 2024
Location: England
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 
have you spoken to the tracker-immobiliser installer, seems quite a coincidence that the problem started soon after installation
Post #1047289 30th Sep 2024 3:31pm
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