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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8013   
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Is it frothy with bubbles after driving?
Steering tends to groan not whine How much fluid was in it? If its not frothy, ie drawing air, it's unlikely to be the cause of the noise from fluid loss. What's the pas pump condition and look like is it wet? You will have a leak somewhere and it needs resolving and topping up. Steering tends to makes noises with steering input, assuming system not drawing air or completely dry. Air inlet and exhaust outlet faults tend to make noise with engine revs. From your description I would be checking exhaust gaskets on manifold. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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25th Sep 2024 9:59am |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4206  
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In terms of what fluid you need, I was advised by Opie Oils that it is Central Hydraulic Fluid (CHF), not ATF. CHF is widely available. I used CHF to top mine up and it has been fine. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
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25th Sep 2024 10:33am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20308
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That’s the brake vacuum pump, looks like the gasket needs replacing, or both inc the vac pump itself.
Mine has a very small squeak occasionally I’m wondering if it is the vac pump as you’ve mentioned the same thing, or the bearing on it. Is it original? It sits on top of the coolant pump, IIRC the steering pump is below that. So the waterpump is bolted to the block with a gasket, the vac pump is bolted to the waterpump top again with a gasket between the two. I think the steering box is bolted to the block on its own below the above. I think JST is correct regards the steering usually starts groaning a heavier noise. Is the steering box leaking ? If you have a coolant leak it’ll leave coloured traces when dry like orange, doesn’t look like that but does look vac pump related. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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25th Sep 2024 10:03pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734  
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I guess it could be the vacuum pump, my brakes have been spongy upon start up or during long drives without stepping on the brakes. Have to pump them a bit so have to be conscious about applying and avoid last minute stuff to ensure that I stop. This has been going on for a while now, bleeding doesn't help resolve the issue.
As for coolant, it all goes erupting out of the expansion tank every now and then with some little islands of rust colored crud. Bought a new tank as mine has been repaired with sealant for now. Planning a purge of the cooling system then new coolant but tracking down that much new coolant locally at a good price has been a challenge. Since my power steering reservoir is low, where do I look for leaks? I did see a leak spot under the front left hand side of the vehicle. Black puddle. Will try to see if I can get CHF locally, otherwise, it'll have to be the Amsoil stuff for now. There are times that I would like to order from Opie but once they tag on the shipping, the prices become ridiculous!  Since the required fluids are slowly becoming available and slowly becoming more reasonably priced, it makes some sense to procure locally if possible. If I cannot find the exact one needed, I check for the best equivalent. 
Input and assistance on all the above issues appreciated. By the way, is there a diagram somewhere which tells which pump and ancillary is where on a 2.4 Puma engine (LHD)? It'll help me identify which parts is what in the event I need to check or buy the part. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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26th Sep 2024 2:48am |
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| Race.it Member Since: 27 Aug 2019 Location: Algeciras Posts: 815  
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This may help
https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...elts_45005 So aircon is on top of the engine. on the side of the turbo. on driver side (LHD) it goes Vacuum pump Water Pump Power Steering pump Hope that helps Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing. 5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details |
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26th Sep 2024 5:43am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8013
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Coolant erupting not good. Needs investigating.
Brakes like you desribe unlikely vacuum, in fact can't see how it's vacuum related more likely wheel bearing needs adjusting/replacing somewhere. Pas leaks, just look for fluid on underside of pipework, steering components. Oil on brake vacuum I wouldn't be concerned about at this stage. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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26th Sep 2024 6:05am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734
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This helps a lot! Thank you! No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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26th Sep 2024 7:20am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734
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Yeah, the coolant one is a head scratcher. I just attributed it to needing a good purge and replacement of coolant. Will definitely look into the PAS system. As for the vacuum pump, what does it help with anyways, just the brakes? No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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26th Sep 2024 7:23am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20308
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You might have an air lock in the coolant system, and just needs a bleed.
There is a WSM procedure for it, it’s quite straight forward. As JST mentioned do investigate the above, it needs looking into ASAP. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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26th Sep 2024 8:03am |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8013
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it provides vacuum which through the servo reduces your physical braking effort input. just brakes yes. wheel bearings check turbo/manifold gaskets for leakage from noise perspective. coolant erupting - does heater run very hot then go cold then go hot again? do coolant pipes go rock hard. is there alot of pressure in the header tank when was header cap last replaced? Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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26th Sep 2024 10:15am |
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| MatLandy Member Since: 11 Sep 2020 Location: Paris Posts: 183  
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I would seriously check the vacuum pump for an oil leak, the seal on the pump pulley itself is notorious for failing, letting some engine oil out. It can paint your engine bay with oil if ignored or continues to degrade further.
LR issued bulletin LTB00177 for this, to replace the pump with a new one redesigned with an upgraded pulley seal, in case of customer complaint
This has been discussed before on this forum, and I am just adding my 2 cents by attaching version 4 of this bulletin published mid 2009 ... could only find it in Russian though 
Worth noting that WABCO, the original supplier of both the one with the weak seal (made in England) and the ones with upgraded seal (Made in France) is not producing them anymore it seems. The new Genuine LR part number is now LR108660, produced by Safak Makina in Turkey I believe. There are also cheap replacement ones made in china if anyone is tempted to give it a try. /Mat  Click image to enlarge |
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27th Sep 2024 6:12pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734
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I was planning on replacing the coolant and header tank anyways so I guess the draining will take care of the initial required bleeding? If ever I still do encounter it, then I just disconnect the fuel cooler line and top up a fill or two? The coolant cap was last replaced quite a while back. I was able to get the IVECO one but seeing as the current one is full of crap, I didn't want to contaminate the IVECO one and just waited until I replaced the header tank (which needed doing and I got a new one already) to do so.
As for power steering, I was asked to get a steering box overhaul kit by my friend who will help me do the work. There seems to be fluid stains on the side of the power steering reservoir from the top of the intercooler down to the steering box so I'm not sure if it's hopefully just a hose. As for the vacuum pump, will see about a new one and the seal just to be sure then. Although my left front wheel bearing needs to either be adjusted or replaced, so there's that. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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30th Sep 2024 8:13am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734
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Hi jst, My heater core has already been bypassed as there's a pinhole leak in it and since we're currently situated in South East Asia, there's hardly any need for it unless global warming makes it snow here sooner rather than perhaps later. My header cap was replaced a few years ago and shortly after this erupting thing started to happen. I bought an IVECO one shortly after but have yet to install it as I want this issue resolved before putting on the better cap. I actually posted a photo of my header cap on here on another thread and noticed it had grubby rust colored residue on it. I'm thinking I need to do a flush before the total drain? I was thinking of putting a hose to the system after I drain it to make sure I get as much of the crud as possible before purging with distilled water and adding on fresh, new coolant. I'll also be changing out the header tank with a new one as the current one was just patched with some epoxy to make it last longer. What do you think? Also, since we can hopefully pull the lines off the cooler I'll need to run the hose on one end of the cooler to make sure the crud gets flushed out of there too, right? A friend of mine suggested that I may need to change out the cylinder head gasket as I have apparently, according to him, overheated several times already. I don't recall a catastrophic shut down. Engine did shut down once due to low coolant. Loaded coolant and all was well for a few years then then erupting thing happened. I only experienced loss of power but not shut down when the temp gauge goes to the top, I just pull over for a few minutes and the temps go right back down. This was during going up steep mountain roads. In any case, he said that air may be going into the coolant system via the warped cylinder head gasket hence the need for a new one. Does that sound right? In any case, out of curiosity, I checked the price of the cylinder head gasket and apparently there are three!  The difference between the three are the number of teeth! They have teeth?!   This being the case, how do I know which one to order? My friend tells me that it may be differences in thickness of something like that and that the only way I can find out which gasket to order is when they take the old one out. Since this may be a head gasket out thing, should any of the bolts be replaced? I remember reading about stretchable bolt being use in there somewhere. No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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14th Oct 2024 6:45am |
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| Johan_B Member Since: 20 Sep 2024 Location: Gothenburg Posts: 18  
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You can identify which gasket you require by checking the number of holes punched in it according to this picture. The bolts should be replaced according to the WSM.
Your friend's analysis could be correct but I would try to verify that before changing the head gasket. Never done it myself but you can look for oil in the coolant, coolant in the oil and also exhaust gases in the coolant. Click image to enlarge |
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14th Oct 2024 12:51pm |
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