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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20282

United Kingdom 
I really wouldn’t put the old map back on, and I’d leave the EGR alone, other than checking to see if a blank is in place and if not, put one in that’s all that you should need there.

The MAP for sure needed a clean, both MAP and MAF are delicate, it’s important to not touch the element just clean it via spraying aerosol brake cleaner or EGR cleaner through under its own pressure.
At the age those are I’d try and replace them for brand new.

As andy63 mentioned, I’d clean out the inlet manifold, stick with the MAP and keep it cleaned for now.
When that stops getting so cruddy, get a new MAP and MAF if you can, and be sure you get precisely the correct parts.
It’s possible someone fitted a wrong part at some point you never know.

The MAP on mine seems to stay quite clean, but when I took it out originally after far too long assuming they would be serviced it wasn’t far off the state yours is.
I cleaned it and the time for a bit, helped a lot, then replaced it and that was good since with the odd periodic cleaning. About once every 2 yrs along with basic service is fine.

If you still don’t find any improvement over some time, then you might need to look into what Hank mentioned as that might need sorting out, is there any wet spots or signs of any leaks around the injectors?

I run Millers diesel additive permanently which helps keep stuff clean, with standard diesel.
You just use 25ml to 25L or 50ml to 50L permanently.

I expect that Lucas or someone does something similar in the States?
Just adds lubrication and a few cetane numbers, runs perfectly. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1045433 10th Sep 2024 2:42pm
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koltonstanley



Member Since: 06 Nov 2015
Location: new jersey
Posts: 29

United States 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Alpine White
ok.
ive got some digging to do.

the last week or two ive been dumping just about every injector cleaner product i can find into my tank and running cetane boost stuff.....

Is it possible im making it worse by loosening all that crud up?

Or maybe thats why it looks so bad now becouse im flushing it all out?
Post #1045450 10th Sep 2024 4:58pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20282

United Kingdom 
Well partly, don’t over do it of course stick to what it says dosage wise.

Some of these treatments are one shot and not to be used all the time though, the Millers I use you can use all the time at the stated dose.

I’d keep cleaning the MAP for now and clean the inlet out, and check it once in a while.

I use the Millers because I trust it, I wouldn’t be keen on using anything else as it is recommended by diesel techs, internals of the engine are kept in good condition.

I’ve used a little Lucas PAS fluid before in my steering system to stop a slow minor leak, it worked I’m quite pleased with that. (made in the US.)

I expect there might be issues with you getting something like Millers as it’s made in GB with shipping. Confused ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️
Post #1045455 10th Sep 2024 5:18pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17320

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Consider also fitting a Provent or similar catch-can to the crank-case breather. You will be amazed and appalled at what it collects and saves your engine from reingesting.
Post #1045469 10th Sep 2024 7:05pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 7987

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
It's over fuelling, if air supply is good which it seems to be then look at fuel side.

You have now done injector seals? After that I would be checking injectors. Are they the originals ones? Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #1045503 10th Sep 2024 11:25pm
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koltonstanley



Member Since: 06 Nov 2015
Location: new jersey
Posts: 29

United States 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Alpine White
I haven’t done anything with the injectors or the seals.
They are all original 235,000 mile injectors and seal.
I’ve basically never had to do anything engine wise in 200,000 plus miles. I guess I can’t complain to much but it sucks right now…. Haha
Post #1045504 11th Sep 2024 12:27am
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BrickBox



Member Since: 05 Oct 2021
Location: Wales
Posts: 802

Wales 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Zermatt Silver
Injector seals are a serviceable item, roughly every 100,000 miles.

So I’d definitely say it’s blow by through the injectors if they’ve never been done. Must be breathing pretty heavy past the seals. 2008 2.4 110 Utility Station Wagon XS.
Post #1045509 11th Sep 2024 5:20am
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koltonstanley



Member Since: 06 Nov 2015
Location: new jersey
Posts: 29

United States 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Alpine White
Ok going to order some injector seals.
Are those the copper washers I’m seeing?
Post #1045535 11th Sep 2024 11:30am
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koltonstanley



Member Since: 06 Nov 2015
Location: new jersey
Posts: 29

United States 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Alpine White
Actually I just found the whole kit with all the seals.
Looks like fun!

Can’t wait to see what it looks like in there!

If I remove the injectors and put the same ones back in then I don’t need to do any injector coding or anything correct?
Post #1045548 11th Sep 2024 12:38pm
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hank



Member Since: 12 Sep 2016
Location: South Wales
Posts: 2290

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Nope. There are tonnes of threads on here with detailed step by step instructions. Nice simple job, just a pain/time consuming to get things clean > 110 XS Double Cab
Post #1045567 11th Sep 2024 3:41pm
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koltonstanley



Member Since: 06 Nov 2015
Location: new jersey
Posts: 29

United States 2010 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Alpine White
Thank you!
Parts are on order!
Post #1045601 12th Sep 2024 2:42am
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