Blue Blood wrote:

There is no relay on this switch I believe. The power runs direct from battery through this switch and burns the contacts out. I bought a boomslang red bison after market to use two waterproof relays. I didn’t think much to it as was so I modified it to suit my liking 😊.

Long and short if it’s not the main fuse above the tunnel, a dodgy connection or earth then it is more than likely the stalk switch.

Hi Blue Blood,

Thank you for the information! Please see the attached photo with the red circle. I opened it last month and noticed that the switch is loose and doesn't stay in place when I turn on the light.

So I found a way to temporarily keep it in place. Hahahaha...Just using it for a while before it stops working completely. hahahaha



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge

MarkBrown wrote:

The main fuses are above the gearbox tunnel, as said. If I remember the brake light, indicators and blower motor are on one fuse, there’s fuses for the side lights, possibly each one, then main and dip, one for each side. I had a fault with a switch, but it was the dim dip and it had burnt contacts/ melted plastic.

I also had repeated problems with the new rear lights blowing fuses due to poor contacts, but this was solved by fitting led units.

The wiring looms chaff through inside the chassis rails, causing all sorts of odd things, such as flashing brake lights and indicators coming on with the brakes.

Hi MarkBrown

Ok, thank you for your information and thanks for your sharing.

love it.

cykoh85 wrote:

Blue Blood wrote:

There is no relay on this switch I believe. The power runs direct from battery through this switch and burns the contacts out. I bought a boomslang red bison after market to use two waterproof relays. I didn’t think much to it as was so I modified it to suit my liking 😊.

Long and short if it’s not the main fuse above the tunnel, a dodgy connection or earth then it is more than likely the stalk switch.

Hi Blue Blood,

Thank you for the information! Please see the attached photo with the red circle. I opened it last month and noticed that the switch is loose and doesn't stay in place when I turn on the light.

So I found a way to temporarily keep it in place. Hahahaha...Just using it for a while before it stops working completely. hahahaha



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge

L110CDL wrote:

Hi there
I've had this problem over the years with the light switch not lasting long and not being genuine, so i paid the extra to have a genuine one and so far so good. There is a difference in the switches and you can see this on page 58 in " My 110 Millie "

Hi there

Oh, Ok, i will find it out, thanks for sharing

Blue Blood wrote:

Definitely agree with that. Genuine all the way for switches but also just add a slight modification in the way of a headlight loom containing a relay. It’ll protect those more expensive genuine switches too 😉.
They are dead simple to install and can be made up fairly easily if you didn’t want to buy one off the shelf.

Thanks Bruv

Blue Blood wrote:

Definitely agree with that. Genuine all the way for switches but also just add a slight modification in the way of a headlight loom containing a relay. It’ll protect those more expensive genuine switches too 😉.
They are dead simple to install and can be made up fairly easily if you didn’t want to buy one off the shelf.