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Defender975

Member Since: 24 Jul 2024
Location: Saint-pierre
Posts: 7

Td5 defender 2003 Cranking but not starting !

Hello community,

I have a problem on a 2003 defender 110 td5 the engine runs but does not start, the old mechanic changed the pump, filter and pressure regulator, injector wiring, engine speed sensor and nothing has changed. So I checked that the immobilization was not faulty (when I cranck, the engine light with the lightning bolt is not on). The injectors are well controlled when I start I put my stethoscope on the injectors you can hear them slamming, I did the same but unplugged I can hear the difference in noise off the power supply. I had the impression that the exhaust was clogged, I put a cloth at the outlet, almost no pressure came out, so I dismantled the turbo from the headers and it was a little extra pressure but nothing obvious for a diesel, I put starting fluid directly in the Intake manifold and it didn't even start. I suspect a weak compression, what do you think I may have forgotten something.

The engine has 89 000km.

Thanks guys.

24th Jul 2024 12:41am

bankz5152

Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2166

Have you checked the collusion switch on trh bullhead? Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent

24th Jul 2024 1:53am

34064

Member Since: 12 Dec 2023
Location: South Central
Posts: 178

Have you bled the fuel system using the ignition on pump the throttle pedal 5 times sequence? 110 Td5 Ex Utilities slowly converting into a pop top camper one day

Build thread:https://www.defender2.net/forum/post1024784.html#1024784

24th Jul 2024 6:32am

MadTom

Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 621

Check hoses between turbo - intercooler - intake manifold. The inside rubber delaminates and clogs the line. Or simply disconnect the hose between intercooler and intake manifold and test. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo

24th Jul 2024 9:11am

Defender975

Member Since: 24 Jul 2024
Location: Saint-pierre
Posts: 7

[quote="bankz5152"]Avez-vous vérifié l'interrupteur de collusion sur trh bullhead ?[ /citation]

It works well, it's engaged and I even put a flying wire in the connector, I think it cuts off the fuel pump inlet and it works fine

24th Jul 2024 9:20am

Defender975

Member Since: 24 Jul 2024
Location: Saint-pierre
Posts: 7

MadTom wrote:
Check hoses between turbo - intercooler - intake manifold. The inside rubber delaminates and clogs the line. Or simply disconnect the hose between intercooler and intake manifold and test.

I tried to start by removing the pipe going on the intake manifold and it didn't do anything, I even put some starting fluid and he didn't want to know anything

24th Jul 2024 9:22am

Defender975

Member Since: 24 Jul 2024
Location: Saint-pierre
Posts: 7

34064 wrote:
Have you bled the fuel system using the ignition on pump the throttle pedal 5 times sequence?

Yes I do them several times but it didn't work, what bothers me is that it doesn't even start with fluid starting

24th Jul 2024 9:23am

Chriswb84

Member Since: 16 Sep 2023
Location: North West
Posts: 22

I had a similar issue with mine, I changed the fuel filter but didnt do the purge process as I wasnt aware I had to at the time as it was all new to me.
The Haynes manual made no referance to do it and I just swapped the filter, fired it up and drove to a mates about a mile away. Anyway when I went to leave it didnt start so I ended up calling the AA. Whilst I waited for those guys after a bit of googling I learnt about the peddle process so did that for maybe 2 hours until they turned up. The AA guy pluged in, no faults, took the airbox off and between him on a can of easy start and me on the key.. whilst it took ages it finally started. I hated using easy start the whole time, I just pictured in my head everything being chewed up because it sounds awful, but it helped drag the fuel through the injectors eventually. It initially started to run on maybe a few cylinders and sat idling bouncing around until all the injectors started to drop fuel in and the AA guy followed me home.

I changed the fuel filter head and fuel filter maybe two months later which was a complete mess with corrosion inside and all the oneway values missing etc did the peddle step once and it started without any problems.

Might also be worth cleaning the crank sensor and connector, mine was covered in crud and oil on the connector plugs, it runs a little better now.

24th Jul 2024 2:47pm

MadTom

Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 621

Defender975 wrote:
MadTom wrote:
Check hoses between turbo - intercooler - intake manifold. The inside rubber delaminates and clogs the line. Or simply disconnect the hose between intercooler and intake manifold and test.

I tried to start by removing the pipe going on the intake manifold and it didn't do anything, I even put some starting fluid and he didn't want to know anything

This is strange, it should do at least somethink, after applying the starting fluid directly to the engine intake manifold. Are you sure, you have not blocked exhaust? Does it have cat in exhaust? You can disconnect exhoust from turbo ("just 3 bolts") and check starting again - possibly with starting spray directly to intake manifold. Or just look deep into exhaust from back, search for any "surprise" inside. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo

25th Jul 2024 5:02am

Olaf

Member Since: 09 Feb 2024
Location: Ramelton, Co. Donegal
Posts: 6

2004 Defender 110 2.5 TD HT Chawton White

I had a similar problem. Changed the crank position sensor but no joy. Then fitted new Denso starter motor and starts perfectly. From what I have read the fuel injectors won't be activated by the computer unless the engine is turning fast enough on the starter. I guess that my old starter wasn't up to the job. I have also seen it mentioned that electrical interference from failing starter can confuse the readings from the crank position sensor.

Incidentally I first brought a new Hella make starter on eBay and it didn't work. I removed it, got my money back from eBay and fitted a genuine Denso model.

Martin

26th Jul 2024 1:53pm

Defender975

Member Since: 24 Jul 2024
Location: Saint-pierre
Posts: 7

MadTom wrote:
Defender975 wrote:
MadTom wrote:
Check hoses between turbo - intercooler - intake manifold. The inside rubber delaminates and clogs the line. Or simply disconnect the hose between intercooler and intake manifold and test.

I tried to start by removing the pipe going on the intake manifold and it didn't do anything, I even put some starting fluid and he didn't want to know anything

This is strange, it should do at least somethink, after applying the starting fluid directly to the engine intake manifold. Are you sure, you have not blocked exhaust? Does it have cat in exhaust? You can disconnect exhoust from turbo ("just 3 bolts") and check starting again - possibly with starting spray directly to intake manifold. Or just look deep into exhaust from back, search for any "surprise" inside.

I removed the turbo from the exhaust manifold, I disconnected the intercooler and injected the fluid choke from the intake manifold, there was no more restriction and yet did not start and did not even "cough"

27th Jul 2024 12:29pm

Newlandy

Member Since: 01 Apr 2024
Location: Gauteng
Posts: 7

Make sure your crank sensor wiring is not hanging near your starter motor, lift the wiring up, as far away from starter as possible. Then try start. The starter interferes with the signal, just moving it further away helps, but sooner or later you'll need a new starter or cps loom.

If you have a nanocom check for noisy crank signal error.

3rd Aug 2024 10:45am

kocr

Member Since: 09 Jan 2012
Location: Lubbeek
Posts: 1

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey

Cranking but nog starting in Belgium ;-)

Exactly the same symptoms here.
Next is replacing the startermotor, check crank position sensor and collision switch.
I 'll update if any succes is booked.
Nanocom indicates 200 revs while cranking (enough or not ?) ...

Thanks for posting you all.

PS: It all started by filling it up with petrol instead of diesel, so air in the system might also be the trouble

4th Aug 2024 12:32pm

MadTom

Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 621

When using starting fluid spray directly to the intake, engine must show at least some effort to run, even without any fuel (starting fluid is replacing the fuel). It needs enough air from ait intake (with disconected EGR valve from engine intake and clean intake, there is nothink to restrict this), not blocked exhaust (you can disconnect exhaust pro turbo output), working starter (to turn the engine) and correctly timed engine valves (correctly set up and not bronek timing chain). You can even disconnect injectors.
Just use 2 people - one cranking from cab, ready to stop engine through clutch, in case of overrun, and the other spraying starting fluid into the intake. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo

5th Aug 2024 8:23am

CJs110

Member Since: 06 Sep 2023
Location: Windsor
Posts: 16

Starter or CPS

Agreed with above that the culprit is likely the Crank Position sensor (or wiring) or the Starter motor.

I had an issue with the starter motor previously and let me tell you the difference the OEM Denso Starter made was immense. Easy to fit too.

Have you tried bump starting it?

30th Aug 2024 8:40pm

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