 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Retrofitting Central Locking and AS10 Connections |
 
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| chrisc2306 Member Since: 02 Jan 2020 Location: Glasgow Posts: 60   
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Hi guys just done this mod on my 2011 puma and thought I'd share how I done it for anyone else who is thinking about tackling it. There's loads of threads with loads of useful information that I found helpful but I thought I'd put it all together.
I used the Hawk CDL 04 kit you get off of eBay for £22, it comes with everything you need in terms of actuators cabling etc. There is 4 actuators in this kit, since mine was only the 90 I only needed 3 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-REMOT...2749.l2649 To get the cables into the doors I used rubber boots that I also got from eBay and ran the cables out of the grommet that is just inside the door and then notched a bit out of the door card to make space for the boot. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Central-Locking...2749.l2649  Click image to enlarge The install of the front door actuators is very straightforward with this kit, the cables are colour coded and its just a case of plugging them together. The kit comes with a piece which you attach the new actuator rod to the existing one. Sorry I don't have any pictures of this part but its easy to do. For the rear door because my one has the standard lock there is no scope to install central locking to it without taking it apart which looked like a bit of a mission so I ordered a new lock that has the rod already in it for central locking. You need to remove the lock barrel from your existing lock, to do that put the key in the lock and turn it, if you look down the hole on the top of the lock when turning the key you'll see a tiny hole, you need to push something in that hole to release the barrel. It's a pain to do, when it is out it just simply slides into the new one no problem. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Door-Handl...2749.l2649 You also need a locking lever as well due to how the back door lock works https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rear-Back-Door-...2749.l2649 Once I had my cables routed to the back door and through the boot I mounted the actuator in between the top and middle bolts in the door aiming at the locking lever on a diagonal. The locking lever just clipped onto my door there was a square cut out just above the lock for it to click into. On the rear door actuator I had to switch polarity on the cables so it went Green to Blue and Blue to Green otherwise when the front doors unlock the back door will lock and vice versa. Once you locate a permanent 12v source and a negative then the kit is up and running. To connect it to the current 10AS alarm I takes a bit of mucking around, first of all you need to remove the unit which you get access to through the drivers side footwell speaker, the right hand screw is easy to get out, the left on the other hand is a bit of a nightmare. I ended up using a multitool to cut away a bit of the plastic under there so I could get my hand in to access the screw. Once you have it out open it up, which is also a bit of a pain I jammed a screwdriver in between the front and back of the case to pry it open a bit whilst pushing the tabs down at the same time. Once you have a couple undone it comes apart fairly easily. When you get into it it will look something like this Click image to enlarge Next you need to solder two cables onto it to allow it to send a signal to the hawk unit. You can see here where to do that Click image to enlarge Once that is done close it all back up, I took the new cables out above the green connector Click image to enlarge The hawk unit has a white and a brown cable coming out of it Click image to enlarge Connect the cables you installed from the AS10 onto these cables, in my case that was white to red and brown to black Click image to enlarge Give it all a test, I found that I needed to use the hawk remote to get all the actuators in the unlock position first and once I had done that the Land Rover fob worked the central locking no problem. Using this method you don't need to fit the relay onto the 10AS or do any other programming with the 10AS to get it working, the hawk unit just picks up the signal and does the rest. Hope this helps and makes sense Last edited by chrisc2306 on 8th Jan 2020 6:34pm. Edited 4 times in total |
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8th Jan 2020 12:09pm |
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| Hufflepuff Member Since: 25 Oct 2014 Location: Hampshire Posts: 727  
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Great write up, thanks Chrisc2306. I shall be doing this later in the year
 2005 Td5 90 XS
1989 V8 110 CSW |
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8th Jan 2020 1:07pm |
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| 24heuer Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Edinburgh Posts: 167 
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I'm in the middle of this also but going down the L/R parts route as I had the wiring already in place in the door frames.
Getting the 10AS out looked to be a total nightmare. The right hand side Torx screw is easy enough to reach through the speaker hole using a small stubby driver. No way could I reach the left hand screw through there though as there's a black plastic shield blocking access (you can see it on the image below). What I did discover however is that by removing the steering wheel and then top/bottom column covers the left hand screw is right in front of you and can be reached using a normal length drive
I know, even the smallest of jobs seems to turn into a major project for me 
Cheers,
Andy... Edinburgh, Scotland http://24heuer.com |
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9th Jan 2020 7:25am |
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| sgreenham Member Since: 27 Apr 2019 Location: Southampton Posts: 145  
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Does anybody know how I can get the cable for the central locking routed to near the fuse box/AS10 from this hole. Do I need to drill a hole behind the trim?
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9th Apr 2020 1:50pm |
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| sgreenham Member Since: 27 Apr 2019 Location: Southampton Posts: 145
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Through this hole... just seems to be a dead end
Click image to enlarge |
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9th Apr 2020 1:51pm |
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| dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 |
the square hole is for the rubber flex and you find round grommet up under the wing at screen end both sides
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9th Apr 2020 2:35pm |
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| HH16HUEDefender Member Since: 27 Aug 2024 Location: Northampton Posts: 4 
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Hello guys,
I have a 2009 pickup that i have converted to hardtop, i installed all the central locking and it works a treat, however i want to use an original remote key. i saw this thread and thought brilliant nice and easy - i soldered the two connections on as shown, and used the hawk control unit, however i cant get the oem key to work? i didnt get a key when i brought the vehicle second hand, so i purchased this kit https://www.remotekey.co.uk/shop/land-rove...s-to-2012/ i thought this would be absolutely fine but i cant seem to get it to respond to anything. any ideas? be glad of any help! |
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27th Aug 2024 11:03am |
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| chrisc2306 Member Since: 02 Jan 2020 Location: Glasgow Posts: 60
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Did you get your new key programmed so that it can activate and deactivate the alarm? I think it’s called a plip code and can be done with a nanocom, for the above method to work you need to be able to set the alarm using the Land Rover key fob and it’s that signal that then activates the hawk unit
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27th Aug 2024 11:49am |
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| HH16HUEDefender Member Since: 27 Aug 2024 Location: Northampton Posts: 4
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i'm not sure, i just had to plug in the small programmer fob to the OBD port until the light went off, and then supposedly it works from there - i will contact the company and see if they can help on that, unless the plip code/nanocom is something i can do myself? thanks
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27th Aug 2024 3:49pm |
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| HH16HUEDefender Member Since: 27 Aug 2024 Location: Northampton Posts: 4
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i'm not sure, i just had to plug in the small programmer fob to the OBD port until the light went off, and then supposedly it works from there - i will contact the company and see if they can help on that, unless the plip code/nanocom is something i can do myself? thanks
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27th Aug 2024 3:51pm |
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| HH16HUEDefender Member Since: 27 Aug 2024 Location: Northampton Posts: 4
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the remote key fob states The Defender Remote key fob will work in exactly the same way as the original, it works the immobiliser, alarm, central locking (if fitted)?
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27th Aug 2024 3:52pm |
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