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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
TD5 brake booster rust and Cracks.
Hello,

The brakes on the 2003 110 are ok so far, stops fine and pedal feels hard. i noticed a crack in a vacuum hose that connects the pump to the booster (fixed).

I have noticed 3 hairline cracks on the housing of the servo ( the face where the master cylinder is secured to the servo) I also noticed that there is rust (flakey) at one of the ports where the reserviour clips into the master cylinder metal housing. Fluid level is fine.

Should I be alarmed or start preparing for a brake overhaul??

thanks
Post #1024396 11th Feb 2024 7:17pm
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1845

 
I didn’t know you guys got rust down there! Very Happy

My experience is 300Tdi, but in this instance I don’t think that matters much. This is a common enough problem. The servo flexes there, and eventually will crack. To replace it isn’t a big deal, there will be enough flex in the brake lines (usually) to allow the master cylinder to be unbolted and gently moved forward enough to allow the servo to be removed/replaced.

Although it’s cracked, it might not be leaking a vacuum just yet though.

If you’re replacing the servo, try and get a good brand. I’ve used TRW.

As for the rust between the reservoir and cylinder, I wouldn’t have thought that would be a problem, but a picture would help. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #1024410 11th Feb 2024 8:03pm
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MalteseRover



Member Since: 02 Jul 2013
Location: Gozo
Posts: 137

Malta 
hello, sorry I got to you so late. i am rebuilding all calipers (shot blasted) and primed at the moment with old pistons still on. will rebuild them with s.steel ones once top coat is hard dry.

Here is the picture of the cracks (there is one on the opposite side too. It all braked perfectly until i felt pedal vibratians (resulting from pads getting worn unevenly and there was metal to metal contact.

DO you think it is possible to gently tack it in with a Mig welder on low setting one spot at a time?

How can you test if the servo is doing its job well?


Click image to enlarge
Post #1043108 18th Aug 2024 2:31pm
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Oldowner



Member Since: 26 Dec 2018
Location: South west
Posts: 623

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Aintree Green
You don’t need to test it as it is completely knackered, it also hasn’t “braked perfectly” for some time.

You also don’t weld brake components, you buy a new servo.

However you can out of interest spit on the crack when running and watch it magically disappear into the crack.

A good servo with engine turned off after a minute or so should still hold a vacuum, proven by removing the one way valve / hose tail from servo when you will hear a whoosh from the incoming air.
Post #1043144 19th Aug 2024 12:40am
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MadTom



Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 623

Czech Republic 1999 Defender 130 Td5 HCPU Baltic Blue
I had the same problem with rusty and broken brake servo on two 130 TD5, just replaced with new one. Steering and brakes are the most critical parts of the car.
I have opened the old servo, sandblasted rust spots, welded and grinded broken holes, and stored it as spare part for temporary use/test part. It was not easy to spot broken hole, because it was hidden behind main brake valve, so sometimes a test spare part is nice to have, to be sure, where is the problem, before going to byu a new one. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo Smile
Post #1043150 19th Aug 2024 5:57am
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Mo Murphy



Member Since: 01 Jun 2008
Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts
Posts: 2241

United Kingdom 1984 Defender 90 BMW M57 3.0 Diesel HT Auto Pennine Grey
That's scrap, replace it. All single diaphragm servos on 90s and 110s eventually die like this. Sure you could weld it but the rubber diaphragm inside is likely to long be past it's best.
HTH
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen.

50 Shades of Pennine Grey
Post #1043182 19th Aug 2024 11:59am
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BaronDefenders



Member Since: 28 Jun 2019
Location: London/Cotswolds
Posts: 896

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Santorini Black
I agree with Mo. Bin it and fit a new replacement. It’s a simple job and the only fiddly bit is the R-clip inside the pedal housing. Charlie

1949 Series 1 80 (SOLD)
2002 Td5 90 (SOLD)
2008 Freelander 2 (SOLD)

1958 Series 2 88 Pastel Green (2019 LR Legends Best Restored)
1983 V8 110 Limestone (Previously owned by Tom Sheppard MBE)
2004 Td5 90 Santorini Black (Td5INSIDE Powered & Rebuilt by CSK)
2012 Puma 110 Zermatt Silver (Overlanding Build)

Instagram: @BaronDefenders
Post #1043264 20th Aug 2024 6:43am
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