 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Full coolant change. Questions. |
 
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804   
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Morning all.
Going to complete replace the coolant on the 2.4tdci. I have had a persistent leak and I think it is from the thermostat. A couple of questions please. First, just wondering, is the thermostat the lowest point of the cooling system? So if I take it out and drain it from this point, will it completely empty the system? Or do I also need to take the hoses out from the fuel cooler? (I know all about the heater settings and heater bleed screw etc - thank you Haynes videos). Second, is there any value in adding a cleaner to the system before doing the flush? Something like the Bardahl Radiator Cleaner? The car has done 110k miles and as far as I'm aware, is on its original radiator and hoses. Finally, anything I should do with the system before refilling? Following on from q2, and kind of flush etc? Thanks as always.  Monsieur Le Grenadier
I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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8th Aug 2024 6:50am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414  
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And don´t forget to use the right coolant spec WSS-M97B44-D. Do not mix coolant types. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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8th Aug 2024 10:57am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20334 
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I used Inugel Auto Cool orange pre mixed on mine, easy enough that way even if a tad more expensive but prevents adding tap water minerals into the system.
Flush though using a hose with clean water fro the coolant tank down through. The fuel cooler is indeed the lowest point, but I used the thermostat hose which will empty quicker, but has a clip on there that is a little bit of a pain to take off the tension and slip up to remove the hose from the manifold. There are pliers for those clips, I’d recommend one I got away with using needle nose pliers on the clip but is a bit tricky. The fuel cooler connections can be a bit tricky to remove as well, I tend to prefer the thermostat hose. Refill and follow the WSM bleed procedure with the bleed valve open and follow that, keep an eye on it and job done. I prefer a pre mixed coolant as it’s mixed exactly as its specs are stated and that would include distilled water as well, it saves a lot of faff and I think keeps temp a couple of degrees down and better protected in winter. The waterpump is known to leak, I’ve had that two times from the gasket on there so check that by tracking its traces of coloured coolant. As mentioned one type of coolant only. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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8th Aug 2024 12:04pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20334
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Oh and IF, yiu have tech where you can read engine temp, it’d be interesting to read the before and after temp if you can, something I didn’t do.
But looking at the temp needle, I think running temp was ever so slightly reduced after changing which is good. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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8th Aug 2024 12:05pm |
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| o4dn Member Since: 08 Jan 2010 Location: South West Posts: 538 
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Yes, something I noticed as well when I changed the coolant. “A Land Rover immobilized is a moral defeat for the driver and bad publicity for the vehicle, […] it's up to you to do justice to your Land Rover!” - Land Rover Driving Technique. -- 2009 2.4 Puma Defender 90 SW 1979 Land Rover Series 3 88" |
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8th Aug 2024 12:40pm |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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Once you have drained from the fuel cooler if you have one, or oil cooler if you don’t.
Remove the bottom left hand side ( as you stand in front of vehicle looking at engine bay) radiator hose. You will find you drain a couple of litres of coolant. It will go everywhere so have a hose to wash off chassis etc. The heater matrix will also hold about a litre of coolant, the only way to get out is to force out with air line or pumped out with new coolant. Check your radiator as well for slight leaks or corrosion. A new Nissens one is great quality and quite cheap. Regarding coolant. Texaco Delo XLC antifreeze , orange in colour, Is the stuff LR use plus rebadge and sell as their own. It is really good antifreeze. Dilute 50/50 with deionised water. It’s not easy to come by in less than 20l concentrate cans but I can see online that pre mixed 50/50 texaco delo xlc is available. |
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9th Aug 2024 10:38am |
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| Grenadier Member Since: 23 Jul 2014 Location: The foot of Mont Blanc... Posts: 5804
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Thanks all.
In answer to a couple of points, the idea of replacing the rad is an interesting one given cost. I suppose hoses at the same time? And an easy swap? I've just had the intercooler and ac replaced, guess I should have done it then? I'll be using the premix Texaco Delo XLC antifreeze. Already bought and waiting to go in. Monsieur Le Grenadier I've not been everywhere, but it's on my list..... 2011 Puma 110DC - Corris Grey |
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13th Aug 2024 3:25pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20334
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You can drain and replace the coolant any time, reuse it even so long as it is kept as clean a possible.
It’s important to ensure it is clean if it isn’t replaced. It’s poisonous to animals as well, so be aware of that with any spills just in case you didn’t know. Though most has Bitrex added now. ⭐️⭐️God Bless the USA 🇬🇧🇺🇸 ⭐️⭐️ |
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13th Aug 2024 5:12pm |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734  
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Question, can you use / mix coolants of different brands but both comply with WSS-M97B44-D? No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy
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14th Oct 2024 6:55am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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If the coolants to be mixed are of the exact same specification, I.e WSS-M97B44-D then yes it’s ok to mix.
The first issue is confirming that the coolant in your vehicle is of the original specification. If you have owned vehicle from day one, and know if it's ever been topped up or changed you will know if it’s the original spec. If not you can’t be certain but if it’s the bright orange colour, not pink or red or purple, and your vehicle is a 2.4 or 2.2 it’s likely to be the correct coolant. |
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14th Oct 2024 8:55am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734
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Thanks, Ianh!
It is sometimes difficult to secure supply of a particular brand with the proper spec coolant locally but luckily there are other brands that also meet the specifications so I just wanted to make sure I can use them together without blowing anything up  No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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15th Oct 2024 7:31am |
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| Ianh Member Since: 17 Sep 2018 Location: Essex Posts: 1997
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That’s ok, if same spec i it will be ok..you can also contact the manufacturer to check it will be compatible with existing coolant to confirm.
Also: How old is your vehicle ? If 10 years or more its due to have a complete coolant change anyway, so finding a coolant of the correct specification that is easy available locally and doing a complete drain and refill may be a good idea. That way you have fresh coolant, know what manufacturers coolant is present, can top up with the same coolant if needed ( ps you should not need to be topping up unless you have a leak) and can buy more of the specific manufacturers coolant locally if needed. A drain and refill is not hard if you follow workshop procedure for filling, it is messy and you will need to hose down chassis and other areas where it splashes when draining, but other than that it’s easy to do. |
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15th Oct 2024 9:13am |
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| MK Member Since: 28 Aug 2008 Location: Santiago Posts: 2414
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Although the fuel cooler is lowest point it will not drain the whole circuit. You need to remove the oil cooler hose also. Alternatively you can use one of those brake pumps to force some air into. Nevertheless, a bit of the old coolant left will not do any harm. Puma 110" SW
............................................................. Earth first. Other planets later |
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15th Oct 2024 11:09am |
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| HardCharger Member Since: 03 Mar 2013 Location: Manila Posts: 734
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I've had to top off before due to the pinhole leak on the heater core then did a full flush when the truck drowned.
Now that I'm encountering some orange rust like residue, I plan to do a full flush with hose water then distilled water then fill with coolant so I want to get as much of the old coolant as possible. Is the above achievable or do I just have to increase change out intervals until all the orange rust residue is gone? So far, I saw that the hoses at the fuel cooler, on top of the oil cooler, and the bottom right (looking forward) radiator hose are the hoses to undo to drain as much coolant as possible. Once drained, which ones do I reconnect for the water flush and which ones should stay off to let the bad stuff out? No Better Friend, No Worse Enemy |
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16th Oct 2024 12:51am |
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