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Home > Puma (Tdci) > HELP !!!! immobiliser issue
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shaynecm



Member Since: 10 May 2024
Location: Norwich
Posts: 63
United Kingdom 
there is a EKA procedure to get round this if it is your immobiliser. think default is 1515.

Emergency Key Access (EKA) If the remote control is damaged or fails to operate, use the 4 digit EKA code, recorded on your Security Card, to disarm the alarm and re-mobilise the engine.
1. Remove the remote control from the key ring. Keep it well away from the starter switch.
2. Unlock the driver’s door, enter the vehicle, and close the door. Note: When the door is opened, the alarm will sound for 30 seconds.
3. Insert the Starter key into the starter switch and turn to position II. The alarm will sound.
4. Turn the key to position 0, then open and close the door.
5. To enter the EKA code, turn the key to II and back to 0 the same amount of times as the first number, e.g., if your EKA code is 4321, turn the key 4 times.
6. Now open and close the door to confirm the entry. Follow the same procedure to enter the next three numbers. When a correct EKA code is entered, the alarm will be disarmed and the engine re-mobilised.
Post #1036666 6th Jun 2024 12:02pm
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kingy08



Member Since: 03 Feb 2024
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 4
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
90 TDCI central locking problem but differrent
Hi, some advice please. 2008 Def 90 TDCI - central locking does two strange things:

1. On locking it will occasionally lock them immediately bounce to unlock and the alarm sounds.

2. Alarm goes off for no reason and I think the car has unlocked itself - suggesting a long delay between the lock and unlock bounce.

Has anyone experienced this and if so what was the cause. I am thinking from reading threads it may be the door actuator as sometimes there is a prolonged whirr as it locks, haven't identified which door as very rarely does it.

How do I check the actuators as it does not always do it - or am I better to get the diagnostics read?

The alarm going off is daily so at the moment locking by key no big drama but be nice to sort the problem.
Post #1038581 27th Jun 2024 5:11pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2001
United Kingdom 
It does sound like a sticking actuator or linkage. Or potentially a partially severed wire between a door pillar and door, causing a high resistance.
Post #1038594 27th Jun 2024 8:14pm
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kingy08



Member Since: 03 Feb 2024
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 4
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Many thanks, are you able to advise on the best way to check the actuators as most of the time they are fine with no delays in the locking unlocking?
Post #1038616 28th Jun 2024 9:52am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2001
United Kingdom 
Have a read on this topic on testing actuators https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic92259...or+testing

PS. How old is your starter battery ?
Post #1038644 28th Jun 2024 3:04pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2001
United Kingdom 
Bunnyman
Any updates on your issue and it’s resolution ?
Otis90
Any updates on your issue and it’s resolution ?

Providing updates helps other members when they have similar issues. Thumbs Up
Post #1038650 28th Jun 2024 3:50pm
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Otis90



Member Since: 28 Jan 2017
Location: suffolk
Posts: 14
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Just to update, I did do the cluster check and that was all fine so given where I live Empire Tuning https://www.empiretuning.co.uk/ near Colchester booked me in to have the ECU link removed so that I can now operate the alarm fobs as normal and central lock via fobs and not have the key issue. Now I can fit a Clifford or alternative alarm of my choice. Appreciate all the forum help. Defender owner since 2007
2003 90 td5 'Otis'
2010 110 puma 'Rocky'
Post #1039513 9th Jul 2024 12:02pm
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2001
United Kingdom 
Many thanks for the update Otis90 Thumbs Up

I expect an EMS resync between the 10AS and Engine ECU was needed.

So with the immobiliser now mapped out of the engine ECU , I’m assuming the Clifford system will add engine immobilisation as part of its features ?

Note:- defender Puma’s are rated Cat 2 by Thatcham , based on the engine immobiliser working. So make sure your insurance company is aware of your situation.
Post #1039518 9th Jul 2024 12:28pm
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Otis90



Member Since: 28 Jan 2017
Location: suffolk
Posts: 14
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green
Yes, no one would touch it until this link was removed and have alarm installation booked so it will be back to protection. Defender owner since 2007
2003 90 td5 'Otis'
2010 110 puma 'Rocky'
Post #1039522 9th Jul 2024 12:34pm
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kingy08



Member Since: 03 Feb 2024
Location: Northumberland
Posts: 4
United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Ianh thanks for the info.

I do not know battery age, I have only had the truck since August 23, but have had no issues with the battery.

I have a new drivers door actuator so might start with a straight swap and see if that cures it - I am not knowledgable on using multi-meters to be honest.


Will then if the same start with the battery test and then start working through the wiring on the doors. I will post what the issue is - assuming I find it!!
Post #1039686 11th Jul 2024 7:52am
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Otis90



Member Since: 28 Jan 2017
Location: suffolk
Posts: 14
United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Galway Green

Click image to enlarge

So after more investigation and starting issues the immob and alarm doesnt look to be the cause. It has been narrowed down to starter solenoid or ignition. Now I ran a light test from the area in red blob while someone turned the key.....no noise from the solenoid at all or light until it cranked after 30 or so tries when the bulb lit up and engine started. I tried it again and similar experience. So I am not sure I have ruled anything out just confirmed that either the ignition barrel isnt sending the power or the solenoid is flaky. The starter was a Bearmach, replaced in 2017 which I just looked up and see they no longer exist.....my money is on the starter solenoid. I did read an article not on landrovers but on why a wire taking the current to the solenoid varies when an engine is warm as starting issues are def worse the colder or more damp days which points it back to ignition issue but tbh at this point tempted to replace both and hope.


Click image to enlarge Defender owner since 2007
2003 90 td5 'Otis'
2010 110 puma 'Rocky'
Post #1043525 22nd Aug 2024 8:02am
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