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AMBxx



Member Since: 24 Jul 2016
Location: York
Posts: 1028

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I have a hole in the wing!
This appeared while washing the vehicle last week. Big Cry


Click image to enlarge


Given that I don't have the skills or equipment to repair properly, I'm wondering what best to do. As I see it my options are:
1) Do a bit of a bodge by fixing something inside the wing, fill, then cover with a sticker (flag would be nice). Accept I'll need to replace the wing in a few years.
2) Get it repaired properly, but concerned I'm just going to find more holes (it's odd that there are two, I'm expecting more).
3) Just spend some money on a new wing. I'd rather not do that right now.

I'm sort of accepting that I'll need a new wing at some point. If I go for option 1 rather than 2, am I just likely to accelerate the corrosion?
Post #1039115 4th Jul 2024 9:02am
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donmacn



Member Since: 06 Nov 2017
Location: Nth Scotland
Posts: 1841

 
You wash your car??! Very Happy I wait till it rains, and because it's been doing a lot of that lately, the car is 'clean enough'!

Seriously, I can't really help with the core of your question. I have replaced one of my outer wings, and I don't remember it being that expensive, but there is also the cost of painting etc.

However I thought I'd flag up something I noticed not so long ago.

My car - 1994 300Tdi - as far as I can tell came with no 'sound deadening' of any sort on the upper side of the inner wings (which are galvanised steel). The inner wings have the occasional little bit of surface rust, but are in perfectly acceptable condition. Outer wings were fine. I only replaced one because of an aggressive lamppost. Whistle

I was recently helping a friend with his car - a 1998 300Tdi. His car had a thin vinyl/foam envelope fitted to the top of his inner wings. His inner wings needed replaced, as did the outer wings, and I think a big part of that was due to the sound deadening (I assume that's what it was for) holding water, salt, grit etc against the steel, and probably against the aluminium outer wing. If it was me, and that was on my car, I'd take it away altogether.

Even if your car has the plastic inner wings, if there's some sound deadening on there it could be contributing to the corrosion. Donald

1994 Defender 300Tdi 110 SW - owned since 2002 - 230k miles and going strong
(The 'rolling restoration' or tinkering thread: http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic58538.html )
2000 Range Rover P38 4.0L V8

in the past..
RR classic - fitted with 200Tdi
1984 RR classic - V8 with ZF auto box
1993 Discovery 300Tdi

not to mention the minis and the Type 2 VW camper...
Post #1039120 4th Jul 2024 11:13am
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TexasRover



Member Since: 24 Nov 2022
Location: Paris
Posts: 1005

France 2002 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Chawton White
Mhh I have not seen corrosion there before, at least not on the 3 defenders and 2 Series vehicles I have own(ed)/dismantled etc

Could it be that this is a damaged panel that has been poorly repaired. Also shows that there is a buildup of something behind that has been festering. Is the internal shield (defender) still in place?

Its always wise to regularly high pressure was the underside/wheel arches/outriggers/rear cross member to flush out any sediment and mud that collects out of view. Just one of those hand wash stations if you don't have a pressure washer at home or even just a garden hose. Amazing how much muck comes out.

Unless of course you live under the illusion that land rovers were made for mud and nothing will touch them. They are pretty fragile things corrosion wise.
Post #1039124 4th Jul 2024 11:46am
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LR Nuts



Member Since: 10 Aug 2022
Location: UK
Posts: 1080

 
Insert pop rivets to match the other fixings Laughing
Post #1039127 4th Jul 2024 11:50am
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AMBxx



Member Since: 24 Jul 2016
Location: York
Posts: 1028

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I tried with black plastic trim fixers but layer is too thin!

There's definitely no previous repair there - I've had this from new. Underside has always been kept clean but couldn't say for certain I've spent any time cleaning behind there specifically. I'll compare both sides to see if any protective stuff is missing.

In the meantime - repair/bodge/replace?
Post #1039130 4th Jul 2024 12:11pm
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bodstruck



Member Since: 09 May 2020
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 889

United Kingdom 
I wouldn't consider a repair, it is only likely to delay the inevitable.

An outer wing panel is not expensive and it could be painted off the car. Not a difficult job.

For now I would sticker over it, enjoy/use the car and then tackle it properly when time/money/mojo permits.
Post #1039131 4th Jul 2024 12:13pm
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Mdm



Member Since: 11 Sep 2013
Location: Sunny Lancashire
Posts: 1582

United Kingdom 
assuming its the front wing? mud and road detritus sits on top of the outrigger and over time rots the wings from the inside.

very common and more so since the new wet grit is used on our roads.

i would do a temp repair with a patch boned to inside of the panel and the outer hole filled/ sealed to slow down any further corrosion

plus a good clean of the underside and the mud traps
Post #1039132 4th Jul 2024 12:36pm
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 707

United Kingdom 
Re: I have a hole in the wing!
AMBxx wrote:
This appeared while washing the vehicle last week. Big Cry


Click image to enlarge


Given that I don't have the skills or equipment to repair properly, I'm wondering what best to do. As I see it my options are:
1) Do a bit of a bodge by fixing something inside the wing, fill, then cover with a sticker (flag would be nice). Accept I'll need to replace the wing in a few years.
2) Get it repaired properly, but concerned I'm just going to find more holes (it's odd that there are two, I'm expecting more).
3) Just spend some money on a new wing. I'd rather not do that right now.

I'm sort of accepting that I'll need a new wing at some point. If I go for option 1 rather than 2, am I just likely to accelerate the corrosion?

That does not look corrosion. The holes look raggedy and clean edges. Plus the panel is Birmabright aluminium magnesium alloy) and shouldn’t corrode in that way normally. There are 70 year old Land Rovers that don’t have panel corrosion.

Also the paint does not look bubbled.
Post #1039133 4th Jul 2024 12:39pm
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 707

United Kingdom 
bodstruck wrote:
I wouldn't consider a repair, it is only likely to delay the inevitable.

Inevitable what?? Shocked
Post #1039134 4th Jul 2024 12:40pm
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revd



Member Since: 20 Apr 2024
Location: England
Posts: 101

United Kingdom 
neighbour's kid got a new air rifle?

Isopon P38 filler and some touch up paint should do it for now
Post #1039136 4th Jul 2024 1:24pm
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Ianb



Member Since: 25 Oct 2023
Location: Devon
Posts: 378

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Alaska White
Post #1039138 4th Jul 2024 1:45pm
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MarkBrown



Member Since: 03 Oct 2022
Location: Mid Wales
Posts: 442

Wales 1983 Defender 110 Other HT Auto Keswick Green
LR Nuts wrote:
Insert pop rivets to match the other fixings Laughing

That’s exactly what I’d do, then touch up over it. No one will know!
Post #1039142 4th Jul 2024 2:56pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20265

United Kingdom 
Might be stones from the tyre fired at it from the inside of the arch, and from their moisture and road sat reacting with the aluminium skin.
That’s what I’d tend to wonder, something has probably hit that skin from the inside.
Possibly gravel things like that flung from the treads.

Though it would due to angle be a glancing blow, but high speed.
Think of the sort of stone skipping over water on a pond type affect at an angle.
But enough to do some damage to the skin. Rolling Eyes
Post #1039143 4th Jul 2024 3:10pm
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Balvaig



Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 729

Scotland 2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey
Be positive - you need no equipment and can learn the skills.
Unless you are a perfectionist and the repair needs to be be perfect, you can do a reasonable fix for about £20-£30.

You need to get inside the wing and see what is going on.
If nothing too drastic, then clean thoroughly to get the mud etc off.
Wire brush gently (£3)
Use wet and dry sandpaper inside wing and holes to remove corrosion (£5)
Prime area and hole £7.50
Fix small piece of aluminium mesh on underneath using two-part body filler Mesh £3 filler £5
Smooth filler on surface with wet and dry.
Prime again
Apply topcoat colour/ lacquer £10

Most materials available from Halfords or Amazon

Topcoat can be ordered on paint code on plate under bonnet.

Practice your painting skills on an offcut of plastic/wood beforehand.

Handpainting is easier to do but looks more obvious.
Spray painting using rattle cans can provide a better finish.

Learning new skills as you go - plenty of tutorials online.
If all else fails you still have your more expensive options.

Good learning curve
Post #1039146 4th Jul 2024 3:25pm
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 93

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
If it's front, live with it until you can replace.

If it's back, live with it.

A repair will be temporary, unless you want to spend more money than a new part would cost.

Body filler typically absorbs moisture. I think you can get some that pretend not to, but certainly most do.


On a dent, the area is sealed, the filler applied, and then the filler sealed.

On some corroded alloy hole, you're not going to get enough of a seal to stop the filler acting like a sponge and holding the moisture and, as has been said, accelerating the decay.


Again, live with it / live with it until you can afford to replace / do a placebo repair that won't last / do a true repair that will cost more than simply replacing (I doubt that that is possible with forum "advice" in the short to medium term)

Part of my job is finishing / refinishing alloy. I would not attempt a repair with filler.
Post #1039157 4th Jul 2024 5:50pm
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