 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > clutch pedal issue |
 
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| falkster Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Sutton Coldfield Posts: 64   
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hi all,
another one... clutch this time. tried the search but found nothing. I start feeling that as a non-native speaker, I just fail using the right search terms... In my OneTen the clutch biting point was relatively high when I bought it. Yesterday, between drives, it happened that the biting point was suddenly moving much closer to the bottom of the travel. Gears still change super smooth, just only in the bottom 30-40% of the pedal... above that the pedal is almost loose and doesn't do much. I wouldn't call it spongy on the top half though. no visible leaks but strangely enough, the fluid reservoir on the master cylinder was pretty much dry, which to me suggests that i must have lost fluid somewhere. But to be honest, i have not checked the fluid level after I bought the car about a month ago. Not sure where to start to find (and fix) the fault. I ccan't imagine I am the first person that happened to. does anybody have a suggested route of action for me please? Or even the knowledge/experience what the issue could be? Many thanks as always.  |
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22nd Jun 2024 8:55pm |
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| rustandoil Member Since: 08 Sep 2012 Location: Cotswolds Posts: 727  
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Same thing has recently happened to me.... My research has resulted in me getting a new master and slave cylinder.... A few vids on YouTube showing people with same issue and many videos on how to swap the parts
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22nd Jun 2024 9:04pm |
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| Procta Member Since: 04 Dec 2016 Location: Sunderland Posts: 5116 
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If you are going to touch the clutch pedal. Measure the height of the pedal as it stands, now and you should have an Inch movement, before pressure, needs to applied to press the clutch in. you will need to set the pedal back up again. if you touch the master cylinder, my dad made this massive mistake on not doing this, and argued with me, that these self adjust etc. Less than a 1000 miles, we were having the car in bits again to do a replacement clutch and adjusting the pedal. We used mine as a reference. he learned a massive lesson there. Defender TD5 90 ---/--- Peugeot 306 HDI hatch back Success is 90% Inspiration and 4 minutes Preparation # you can make it! |
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23rd Jun 2024 2:43am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20201
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I would suspect clutch spring or very small clutch Slave leak.
The master cylinders seem to rarely fail and have a very long life, friction plate springs on LR’s clutches and slaves are much more common. Isn’t the slave external on your year? It maybe just that it needs bleeding with air trapped in it, when you say the MC was nearly empty was it empty to the extent of dry or a little in the bottom? If dry then more likely air in there somewhere and since then presumably you’ve topped it up. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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23rd Jun 2024 8:48am |
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| falkster Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Sutton Coldfield Posts: 64
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Thought I give the gravity bleeding a go yesterday.
Failed at the first hurdle. The slave cylinder's bleeding screw is so tight that I have no chance of loosening it... Are the supposed to be super tight?? I am considering my options now. Get master and slave cylinders plus the little flex hose and then either hand over to a specialist to change the parts as Haynes manual says changing both is a 4/5 spanners job. I am just not feeling that confident and my drive is unfortunately sloped as well, which makes work a bit less comfortable. Or is anybody local to Sutton Coldfield and would consider giving me a hand (or two!) when I try tackling the job? obviously not for free. 
Alternatively, are there any Defender specialists in my area? |
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24th Jun 2024 10:23am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3381  
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I had success in bleeding the clutch system by just pressing the clutch pedal, jam it down with a piece of wood to the seat box, and leave it overnight. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Jun 2024 12:21pm |
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| falkster Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Sutton Coldfield Posts: 64
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where does the air escape in that method? Assuming you did not leave the reservoir cap off?[/quote]  1988 Land Rover OneTen County SW, 3.9l Petrol V8 (serpentine), original "Santana" LT85 gearbox |
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24th Jun 2024 11:10pm |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 205  
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Deleted post.
Last edited by piechipsandpeas on 25th Jun 2024 11:32am. Edited 1 time in total |
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25th Jun 2024 5:52am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3381
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[/quote] I think / my hypothesis is that the air will slowly (overnight) migrate to the highest point, very close to the master cylinder, and once the pedal is release in the morning, the volume of fluid in the slave cylinder and pipework will push the air out into the reservoir. The reservoir cap has a vent. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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25th Jun 2024 6:44am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 205
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Deleted post.
Last edited by piechipsandpeas on 25th Jun 2024 11:32am. Edited 1 time in total |
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25th Jun 2024 7:42am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3381
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Seems like the OP has "1988 Land Rover OneTen, 3.9l Petrol V8 (serpentine), original "Santana" LT85 gearbox" which is the older type of external slave.
BTW, I also had success bleeding a stubborn clutch system, by removing the slave, then orienting the slave such that the hydraulic inlet is at the highest point, and pushing the slave piston all the way in. This pushes most the air out. Check that the reservoir is not overfilled before you do this. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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25th Jun 2024 8:38am |
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| piechipsandpeas Member Since: 12 May 2021 Location: Albany, Western Australia Posts: 205
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Thanks Dinnu, another PEBKAC, that's twice this week for me.
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25th Jun 2024 11:30am |
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| shaynecm Member Since: 10 May 2024 Location: Norwich Posts: 63
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the gravity method is one way, but you can sometimes push the peddle all the way to the floor and jam with a piece of wood then the air should slowly raise up and out as this opens up the passage ways. if you leave the master cylinder cap loose and leave overnight it may help.
it may be worth just asking a local garage to crack of the slave for you so you can then bleed as you need if you’re struggling. not saying it is but it could be the slave cylinder is leaking into the clutch housing if your not seeing drips and still losing fluids. If you’re looking for what to get if you ever get to this, I would look at Lof for either a power master or slave and then Pioneer4x4 for the connection pipes as these are better quality and lifetime warranty it a once and done. https://lofclutches.com/ https://www.pioneer4x4.com/ |
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25th Jun 2024 4:19pm |
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| falkster Member Since: 12 Nov 2023 Location: Sutton Coldfield Posts: 64
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Thanks Shane.
Sounds like good advice. Dinnu suggested that method with the pressed pedal, only i did not use a piece of wood but my pedal lock and an old car stereo which together makes the right length to keep the pedal to the floor...  I tried it yesterday and today after work my pedal felt like normal again. Happy Days!
Will keep to local journeys for the next couple of days to see if the issue returns and if it does, will check for your links.
Thanks Dinnu, who would have thought, it could be that easy? Well, you obviously. 1988 Land Rover OneTen County SW, 3.9l Petrol V8 (serpentine), original "Santana" LT85 gearbox |
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25th Jun 2024 11:38pm |
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