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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 264
United Kingdom 
Alternator bracker adjustment
Hi
In proccess of replacing head gasket on my TD5 and am on the home straight putting everything back together. The head has been off for a while so ....

There's a bracket ( lrwprkshop support btracket ERR7000) from the alternator to the head and of course with it disconnected the alternator has moved a bit so the belt is now loose and the bracket hose no longer match up with the ones on the hear/alternator ( pick one).

Is it just a case of a bar/ long screwdriver to push out the alternator till the holes line up again?
A Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #1038255 24th Jun 2024 9:18am
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Penfold_6290



Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 312
United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Hi, as far as I can remember the bracket bolts to the block with three bolts, two along the top, one at the bottom. The alternator locates to the bracket with one long bolt and there's a flat bar at the top. The belt tension is set with the idler, so you don't have to move the alternator to take up slack in the belt.
Post #1038270 24th Jun 2024 1:07pm
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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 264
United Kingdom 
https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u....26.08.png

So bolt "6" will i guess be at the bottom of the alternator. Support bracket (4) at the top, is the one i'm talking about. Havent touched the other ones, but i can only connect bracket (4) to either the alternator or the block, hence the push the alternator out question


A Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #1038272 24th Jun 2024 1:30pm
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Penfold_6290



Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 312
United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
Yes, pivot the alternator about bolt 6 until you can secure bracket 4 to the alternator one end and the block on the other. Tighten bolt 6 and then the alternator should be in the correct place for the belt to be the correct length for the tensioner to do its job.
Post #1038273 24th Jun 2024 1:57pm
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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 264
United Kingdom 
K thanks

The annoying thing is that you cannot buy the o-ring at the end of the Vac pump oil feed pipe by itself. You need to buy the whole thing at ~£80

Most expensive o-ring ever .... in terms of cost worse than the gauze filter behind the FPR I guess !

A Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #1038277 24th Jun 2024 2:43pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5834
United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Can you get some O-Rings from your local motor factors? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #1038278 24th Jun 2024 2:56pm
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Penfold_6290



Member Since: 22 Sep 2021
Location: Dorset
Posts: 312
United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Epsom Green
alexatnd wrote:
K thanks

The annoying thing is that you cannot buy the o-ring at the end of the Vac pump oil feed pipe by itself. You need to buy the whole thing at ~£80

Most expensive o-ring ever .... in terms of cost worse than the gauze filter behind the FPR I guess !

A


As said above I'm sure if you take the O-ring to a motor factor or a hydraulics wholesaler they'd match the thickness and ID of the O-ring without drama.
Post #1038303 24th Jun 2024 6:37pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2142
2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Get the stainless pipe from Pioneer. Its half the price. Instagram @defender_ventures
Empire Tuning - Agent
Post #1038343 25th Jun 2024 9:16am
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alexatnd



Member Since: 19 May 2015
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 264
United Kingdom 
Penfold_6290 wrote:
alexatnd wrote:
K thanks

The annoying thing is that you cannot buy the o-ring at the end of the Vac pump oil feed pipe by itself. You need to buy the whole thing at ~£80

Most expensive o-ring ever .... in terms of cost worse than the gauze filter behind the FPR I guess !

A


As said above I'm sure if you take the O-ring to a motor factor or a hydraulics wholesaler they'd match the thickness and ID of the O-ring without drama.


ok that's at least a 50 mile round trip to try and find somewhere but still good idea
A Santa - 1977 Series 3 - new chassis, tub, disc brakes,SU Carb
Gertie - 1999 110 TD5 - like a Phoenix from the ashes back on road... almost
Effie - 2004 110 TD5 County
Post #1038351 25th Jun 2024 10:14am
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htb2



Member Since: 02 Nov 2018
Location: Carmarthenshire
Posts: 524
Wales 
If you search online you will find suppliers of o rings, if you have the dimensions to hand.
Post #1038406 25th Jun 2024 7:14pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5641
2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Everybody knows O rings only come in four sizes.

Too big
Too small
Too thin
Too fat

Rolling with laughter Rolling with laughter
Post #1038410 25th Jun 2024 8:31pm
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4RF RDS



Member Since: 19 Jul 2015
Location: Ottawa
Posts: 919
Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Epsom Green
Would that not be “too” sizes??? Rolling with laughter 2010 Range Rover MkIII Autobiography Super Charged (Idris)
2003 Range Rover Mk III (Desmond FitzWilliam)
2000 Defender 110 CSW TD5 (CTX)
1992 Range Rover Classic (Lizzy)
1972 Series III 300 Tdi (Stanwood)
1967 MGB GT

Every normal man must be tempted at times to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin to slit throats.
H. L. Mencken (1880 - 1956)
Post #1038485 26th Jun 2024 4:09pm
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