 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > DIY sand blasting |
 
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4216   
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Anybody ever tried.one of these for removing rust and powder coat.
https://www.toolstation.com/draper-portabl...ity/p77804 I've been given one for free and thinking of tackling my flakey bumper and A bar. I have a DIY grade 100l compressor to power it. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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22nd Jun 2024 8:59pm |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2244 
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Powder coat is notoriously difficult to blast off with hobby kit even commercial blasters are not fans as its so time consuming. It'll be good for brightening and cleaning small castings and little bits and bobs.
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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22nd Jun 2024 10:55pm |
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| defender9 Member Since: 12 Mar 2016 Location: Fylde Coast Posts: 1629 
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Powder coatings are usually best burnt off above the temperature of the plastic (usually PA) melts at then blasted to clean up the metal.
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23rd Jun 2024 4:58pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20440
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A Poly strip disc or wheel such as these work really well:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404815706136 The problem is when you get corners, inverted edges and parts where you cannot get it into. A Dremel is possible to use for those parts then though, but, depends how much time you’ve got and how much there is to do when it comes to taking off powder coat. This is why I prefer paint, as at least with paint it’s quicker to refinish and that’s enough work in its self but doesn’t come with the pain of wasting hours removing PC. If the surface is good, you can primer over it and finish the edges with filler but it won’t always last. Often cracks on the edge as the PC lifts underneath. 
I would go for a mixture of red 3M sanding pads, hand sanding, poly wheel, and dremel. Flap wheel might help a bit in some places I’m not sure what type attachment would be best on the Dremel if you have one. Some ideas anyway, the main thing is the time it takes. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R 🇬🇧🏴🏴🏴🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪 |
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23rd Jun 2024 10:17pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4216
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The item I need to redo is my tubular a-bar, so it's quite big and nealry all curved surfaces. The powder coat on the bar itself is still good, but the welded on brackets that mount it to the bumber have lost most of the PC due to the edges not being relieved before coating and the welds having little pimples poking through the PC.
I like the idea of burning off and then sanding off the residue, does that work well? 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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24th Jun 2024 6:34am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3421  
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I tried DIY sand blasters... really nasty... never again. So for rust removal I use an assortment of wire brushes, sand paper and rust removers, and electrolysis if possible.
For small items that fit in a 60l tank, I use electrolysis, then assortment of wire brushes on angle grinder and driller. I like the driller as can reverse rotation, so the bristles dont polish the rust! and then chemical rust removal. I find a product Hg Rust remover very effective. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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24th Jun 2024 10:54am |
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| Mo Murphy Member Since: 01 Jun 2008 Location: Letchworth Garden City, Herts Posts: 2244
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I have a brand new boxed Masai A bar which I bought and changed my mind on. It was the nearest size and shape to genuine that I could find and is zinc under the powder coat. It could save you a lot of work !
Mo The Land Rover 90 - Many are called, few are chosen. 50 Shades of Pennine Grey |
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24th Jun 2024 11:47am |
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| Muddybigdog Member Since: 11 Apr 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 1018 
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I have never used but this laser rust remover looks pretty handy thing to hire
Jumped ship to reliability - Mitsubishi L200 Puma 90 XS - Sold D3 - 2.7 S x2 (both Sold) Freelander 2 HSE - Sold Freelander 1 - Sold Disco 2 - Sold |
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24th Jun 2024 12:15pm |
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| Bluest Member Since: 23 Apr 2016 Location: Lancashire Posts: 4216
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Thanks, but I'm determined to save this one. Probably be a winter project now. I might do a little test of the burn then sand technique on an inconspicuous area. I do remember attempting to remove the powder coat from some side steps with just abrasive wheels and I gave up. I'd have spent more on abrasive than the cost of the steps. Is there no solvent that could melt it off? That laser removal thing above would be a menace, I'd be pointing it at everything and everyone like laser gun. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS |
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25th Jun 2024 9:34am |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3421
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I find Trimite paint remover very effective. Wear good gloves as it burns skin like getting a taste of hell.
 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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25th Jun 2024 9:43am |
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| julian Member Since: 17 Feb 2017 Location: Devon Posts: 122 
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Powder is so rubbish -
Leave it outside for a while and the steel will rust out below the powder without any effort, but, try and strip it, and there's always a patch. I would torch the thing and then clean up the residue. Or take it to someone who has more than a diy setup for blasting. (I have over 20cfm here and I still wouldn't bother trying to blast it) |
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25th Jun 2024 11:49am |
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