 | Home > In Car Electronics > Stinger High 10 problems |
 
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| NoLimits Member Since: 29 Dec 2022 Location: Somerset Posts: 58   
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It could be getting it from the temp sensor in the cold air inlet, do you have a ODB scanner to check if you are getting any weird readings
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20th Jun 2024 4:06pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20096
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Temp sensors can be really strange and go off on a tangent, I have a Check Temp, and despite the sensor being placed in a good location and insulated with foam so it is quite protected from extreme and more ambient it can be variable.
As mentioned above, it will be from the OBD2 socket, and that temperature is probably the air intake sensor temp. MAF maybe, I am unsure of this but if it is there then it might actually be showing you the sensor is faulty. I very much doubt it’s the CHT, as that is engine temp and that wouldn’t show those figures anyway. Regards the rear camera, perhaps try a buck converter in parallel to stabilise the voltage to the rear cam. That can possibly be the fault, and also use a high quality video cables. Whilst some of these cameras can be cheap (just saying some are) the video cable can be a downfall of the quality of the image. Premium ones are made of good materials and also shielded, or shielded multiple times, a a Ferrite clip on the power supply might help too. Basically it’s all about a stable voltage and clean signals aa much as possible. Puma’s are quite good for voltage stabilisation, when at idle you should get quite little voltage fluctuation or hardly any at all Up to about 200mV or 0.2v either way is fairly common to stable voltage. Old Alternators with bad rectifiers etc can be all over the place especially whilst driving and RPM’s change a lot. Regards to the the Temp displayed on screen, that is picked up from the OBD2 so wherever LR has that temp sensor, which someone here will know but as mentioned the intake makes sense to be likely. Unless the Stinger system has its own temp sensor, and temp sensor probe. (If it shows external temp that’s either off the OBD2 or has a temp senor for your own placement by a customer. If it does, then consult the manual. I would imagine it’s OBD2 though and probably doesn’t have its own temp sensor probe. If the temp sensor is the MAF that it uses, may need a replacement that might possibly be what it is that is doing it. If you can you could I do with getting it plugged into diagnostics to see if any DTC’s are logged on the LR. If you see any codes MAF related then that is more likely. Does anyone know where these temp sensors are? CHT Sensor is engine temp so that is obviously not ambient outside. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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20th Jun 2024 5:05pm |
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| Bish Member Since: 11 Nov 2008 Location: Hungerford Posts: 419 
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Having fitted about 12 of these the main thing I find is to ensure that the software version is updated to V12. A lot came with V10 and it can cause a few issues.
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26th Aug 2024 8:24am |
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| Marv78 Member Since: 07 Aug 2024 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4 
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Hi I gave not had any of those issues after updating to v12 thanks to raj at stinger who is as helpful as he can be a the minute.
The only issue I have now is the switching on the camera screen has to be redone every time I start up as it switches its self off once the ignition us turned off. So when you restart the engine the rear cam does not come on. They are on with this fault so hopefully it gers sorted. |
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30th Aug 2024 1:52pm |
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| Bish Member Since: 11 Nov 2008 Location: Hungerford Posts: 419
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So to cure the camera issue you need to plug the cam input into Cam input 2 and then wire the trigger cable to the cam 2 trigger.
Once this is done change the setting in the camera menu and it should work. |
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4th Sep 2024 10:07am |
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| Marv78 Member Since: 07 Aug 2024 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4
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Hi bish
Yes I did this as per raj at stinger but it stops the front cam turning on for 30 seconds when u disengage from reverse. I have been I contact recently and the fix along with a dimming issue which some people have should be fixed in an update shortly |
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4th Sep 2024 10:47am |
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| Bish Member Since: 11 Nov 2008 Location: Hungerford Posts: 419
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The dimming issue is easy to fix.
You can adjust the settings in the sub menu. But then it doesn't dim at all which is a bit frustrating. |
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5th Sep 2024 7:59pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20096
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They should only dim when the lights go on usually, unless there is a photo receptor which is unlikely.
Usually there is a dimmer input to the rear, which is a live input from the dash lighting circuits which is on when the sidelights or dipped headlights are on, which then dims the screen for night use. This is based on typical systems, depends if the H10 has that input to the rear? An ideal pick up of for that, is from the lighter socket light female spade, which is obsolete but active is you fit say a Bluesea 12v socket. I seem to removed typical colours are orange with white stripe, which is just a guide only. In effect, sidelights or dipped on, includes dash interior lights, that will send signal to HU positive input which will dim the HU. Lights off, HU brightness increases. Depending on master settings set on the HU, that will set what you’d like it to be. On mine (Pioneer) I keep mine on night mode all the time on some Apps due to maps and how they look, so it’s darker and more contasting. You can adjust these things, but you always need the correct wiring inputs in place otherwise it’ll not auto function for that feature. NEVER SURRENDER! ⛽️🛢️👨🔧🧰⚙️ RED, WHITE & BOOST! 🇬🇧 |
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5th Sep 2024 10:42pm |
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