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Ianb



Member Since: 25 Oct 2023
Location: Devon
Posts: 378

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Alaska White
Can anyone recommend a budget rivet gun? Or user error?
Hey all,
I suppose maybe I should ask if I'm the error in this situation first...

I have a Forge steel rivet gun (from screwfix years ago) and a box of rivets (again screwfix) and I cant for the life of me figure out whether it is just pure dung, I'm dung at using it, or a combination of both?

Admittedly whilst roughly knowing the concept, it's not something I have done before (with much success) but I find my rivet gun, I have to "pump" it like an absolutely lunatic to the point where you need to have great ape like strength.. then it "pops" and the little metal bit is stuck inside the 'rather irritating device' which means I have to calmly and collective, remove part of it to shake it out again...

As I value my surrounding area and my neighbours most likely wouldn't appreciate a blue cloud and an airborne rivet gun, I'm hoping for advice.... The Yeti - 110 Camper https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic90308.html
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/@YetitheDefender
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/yetithedefender/
Post #1037609 16th Jun 2024 3:30pm
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johnlad



Member Since: 18 Dec 2023
Location: Blackpool
Posts: 54

United Kingdom 
Depending on what size rivets your using and if you already have any battery tools from there range, Milwaukie make a good one.
Post #1037615 16th Jun 2024 4:17pm
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Bluest



Member Since: 23 Apr 2016
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 4194

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Java Black
The manual squeeze type rivet guns do take a fair bit of muscle power to work, bigger the rivet, the worse it is. Just make sure you have the right size collet in the end so that it is grabbing the rivet properly. The metal bit that pops off should fall out of the back of the head if you tip it up, but if they do get stuck just putting the next rivet in should push it through .The lazy tongue type use much less muscle power, can do bigger rivets, but are slower. If I had a lot to do I'd be looking at pneumatic of electric one. 2007 110 TDCi Station Wagon XS
Post #1037618 16th Jun 2024 4:58pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20265

United Kingdom 
When the pin does pop you’ve got to be careful of the body of the rivet tool chipping or damaging anything too, which is why masking tape around the rivet part is a good idea or a cloth with a hole in it to clear the rivet.
Only when the pin finally breaks away it’s difficult to keep the tool still.
I expect a power tool one would be far less of an issue with that.
Post #1037620 16th Jun 2024 5:49pm
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 735

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
I thought the Milwaukie cordless riviter was a bit of a lazy gimmick.... Until I got one, good grief it's good 👍🏻👍🏻
But on the other hand if you are just doing a few lazy tongs is the way to go
Post #1037621 16th Jun 2024 6:00pm
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Dinnu



Member Since: 24 Dec 2019
Location: Lija
Posts: 3396

Malta 2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 CSW Santorini Black
custom90 wrote:
When the pin does pop you’ve got to be careful of the body of the rivet tool chipping or damaging anything too, which is why masking tape around the rivet part is a good idea or a cloth with a hole in it to clear the rivet.
Only when the pin finally breaks away it’s difficult to keep the tool still.
I expect a power tool one would be far less of an issue with that.


Done that, perhaps too often too Big Cry
What I do now is when I feel it is about to pop the mandrel, I pull on the tool, so I dont hammer it against the bodywork. Never had problem since. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing
2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black
Post #1037627 16th Jun 2024 6:40pm
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julian



Member Since: 17 Feb 2017
Location: Devon
Posts: 93

United Kingdom 1994 Defender 110 300 Tdi CSW Alpine White
I remember putting in rivets to the roof of my 101FC -

I taped a block on the tool so as I could kneel on it to tension the rivets!


Many years later, I sometimes put in 200 rivets in a session for work.

I just pull the trigger on the pneumatic gun and it's done.


I have a back up pneumatic gun, in case the main one breaks, and it's a rush job.

Putting them in with a manual tool isn't a job you really want to be doing!
Post #1037628 16th Jun 2024 6:52pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17310

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
My go-to Armstrong riveter is a long-handled one similar to this:

https://ffx.co.uk/products/draper-draper-2...ool-110913

I can't remember what make it is (it's a reasonable one, not a budget one) but it saves so much effort over them small ones (and the lazytongs ones are hopeless). Not long ago I used it to fix a new deck on a flatbed trailer with about 80 6mm rivets and no exhaustion, no RSI.

If a Milwaukee one is out of budget, a long handled one is the next best thing.


Last edited by blackwolf on 16th Jun 2024 8:37pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #1037629 16th Jun 2024 7:00pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1776

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Anyone using a lazy tong type - please keep your pinky finger out of the mechanism.......
Post #1037632 16th Jun 2024 7:36pm
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Ianb



Member Since: 25 Oct 2023
Location: Devon
Posts: 378

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Alaska White
Perhaps I need to check what size rivets I'm using, but I guess the riveter I have is something like this: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/324079942127

I'm certainly no worlds strongest man, but I don't consider myself incapable when it comes to strength tests, I just feel like I'm going to blow something, gasket, blood vessel, fuse or just plain hand disintegration trying to rivet with the above, then there is the added fun when you nearly burst, it finally "pops" then the whole thing falls out because it didn't set properly or something?!?

Maybe I should just nut and bolt things Laughing The Yeti - 110 Camper https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic90308.html
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/@YetitheDefender
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/yetithedefender/
Post #1037638 16th Jun 2024 8:35pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17310

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
That is the most common type but really isn't much good on anything but the smallest aluminium rivets. Gets one with long handles, it's transformational.
Post #1037639 16th Jun 2024 8:40pm
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Ianb



Member Since: 25 Oct 2023
Location: Devon
Posts: 378

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi HT Alaska White
I'll have a hunt about for long handle ones then Smile

The link above for £22ish seems pretty good.

Or I hold off one more week and find a robot that can rivet from any angle in the middle of lidl for £15 Laughing The Yeti - 110 Camper https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic90308.html
Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/@YetitheDefender
Instagram - https://www.instagram.com/yetithedefender/
Post #1037641 16th Jun 2024 8:42pm
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lohr500



Member Since: 14 Sep 2014
Location: Skipton
Posts: 1314

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
I have one of those similar to the Draper model shown in the link.

It works well and came with a selection of different ends to suit different rivet stem diameters.

It isn't the best quality and I think if I was using it on a daily basis, then I would want something more substantial. But for occasional use it is fine.
Post #1037769 18th Jun 2024 11:48am
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Chicken Drumstick



Member Since: 17 Aug 2020
Location: Near MK
Posts: 707

United Kingdom 
Re: Can anyone recommend a budget rivet gun? Or user error?
Ianb wrote:
Hey all,
I suppose maybe I should ask if I'm the error in this situation first...

I have a Forge steel rivet gun (from screwfix years ago) and a box of rivets (again screwfix) and I cant for the life of me figure out whether it is just pure dung, I'm dung at using it, or a combination of both?

Admittedly whilst roughly knowing the concept, it's not something I have done before (with much success) but I find my rivet gun, I have to "pump" it like an absolutely lunatic to the point where you need to have great ape like strength.. then it "pops" and the little metal bit is stuck inside the 'rather irritating device' which means I have to calmly and collective, remove part of it to shake it out again...

As I value my surrounding area and my neighbours most likely wouldn't appreciate a blue cloud and an airborne rivet gun, I'm hoping for advice....


I bought this earlier in the year:
LSDZHK Electric Rivet Gun Adapter... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0BZPSP42H?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

A little fiddly at first. But worked really well once I got the hang of it. Best thing is there is no jolt/jump when the rivet “pops”. So no risk of damaging any nearby paint.
Post #1037776 18th Jun 2024 12:18pm
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