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| TexasRover Member Since: 24 Nov 2022 Location: Paris Posts: 1005   
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Econoseal Automotive connectors are commonly available on Amazon and the likes as male/female pairs, either with a pigtail you splice in or with the separate connectors you crimp or solder on.
They are cheap, you buy a bunch in a bag and they are well proven |
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14th Jun 2024 10:24am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2222  
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My preference is normally Deutsch DT for external use on vehicles (or the DTP version for higher power use). These however need special crimpers which are quite pricey so not really appropriate for occasional use.
TE Econoseal and Superseal (always source myself via 3waycomponents on ebay as there are a lot of chinese clones available) are both always a good go-to and in the case of econoseal are also what will be fitted to your external lights on the Td5. To crimp them properly you do need the correct crimpers but they are not ridiculous money and can be useful with the same connectors already used on the vehicle elsewhere. Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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14th Jun 2024 10:45am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20265
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Econoseal or Superseal are good as mentioned above.\
I use a basic uninsulated crimp tool, does the job. Just bring the sheath retaining wings in a couple of mm, crimp the conductor, then the rear wings, then the conductor again nice and tight and job done. Get the seal on the right way around first just into the back of the wings. Whilst there is Econoseals on the LR loom, I tend to use superseals for anything separate. Bearing in mind the Amperage load they are designed for isn’t to be exceeded.  Last edited by custom90 on 14th Jun 2024 12:31pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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14th Jun 2024 10:56am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17310 
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I'm glad that you remember that the silicone seal has to be crimped in with the insulation crimp, most people miss this!
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14th Jun 2024 11:27am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20265
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Yes, and then it slides back up the sheath of the cable, totally voiding its waterproofing / IP rating.
Basically a water trap then and won’t last, then there are different size seals for different wire diameters. I tend to go for 1mm2 thinwall, unless larger is needed it suits most circuits but anything smaller is a bit fiddly. |
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14th Jun 2024 12:33pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17310
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I've never had that happen to me! Are you definitely gripping the neck of the seal within the crimp?
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14th Jun 2024 1:01pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20265
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Nor me, I’m just saying that’s what happens if the seal is left loose without being crimped properly under the wings.
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14th Jun 2024 1:06pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17310
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Ah, sorry, now I realise what you meant
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14th Jun 2024 2:11pm |
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| Dinnu Member Since: 24 Dec 2019 Location: Lija Posts: 3396  
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Never knew that should also crimp the seal. Always just crimped the insulation by the end of the terminal. I had installed a couple on my boat, really corrosive salty environment, though never had a seal walk its way out. Everyday is a school day. 1988 90 Hard Top, 19J Diesel Turbo, Shire Blue - Restoration ongoing 2012 90 CSW, 2.2TDCI, Santorini Black |
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14th Jun 2024 2:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20265
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Only thing is crimp the seal to the sheath with the wings but don’t do it super tight or it might cut into the seal, you get a feel for when it’s just right.
You can get a crimp tool that crimps everything in one I believe but I don’t see much merit in buying an Approx £32 tool to do that. It’s a bit like hydraulic crimp tools for very big cables, if you do it for a living then I can see the point, especially time and convenience but if not you can get an equally good result with a good vice. Just depends on access and speed required. Basic tool for Econoseal and Superseal will do such as this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112760438513?it...R9q_u_aCZA Close the wings just so they fit the end of the jaws, crimp the conductor with the middle die. Then put the seal in and close the wings with the end die, crimp the conductor with the smallest die so it’s tight and possibly close the wings a little with the middle die and should be done then. Sometimes the larger die is enough for the wings and seal anyway. But you must put the seal on before you strip the end of the cable, and ensure the seal is the right way around and within the wings to hold it captive before you crimp it. If you stripped the sheath off and forgot the seal you can put it on but it’s more tricky and you are likely to disturb a conductor strand which wounding be a pain, it helps to slightly twist the conductor strands before crimping, if it’s very small dia wire say 0.5mm2 or smaller and low load then you can fold the conductor back on the sheath a little on the conductor crimp which will mean it’s more secure, ensuring the condor is against the crimp base side for good contact. I’ve never had a need for anything other than a basic pre insulated crimp tool or uninsuated crimp tool (the one you need for these connectors) and a vice crimp tool for HD cables. I find the strippers good for these type of tools too, less likely lie auto strippers to nip a conductor strand off which is something you really do want to avoid. In a push you can use needle node pliers, but the crimp tool provides a better more secure finish. |
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14th Jun 2024 3:51pm |
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