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tankpeople



Member Since: 30 Dec 2023
Location: Fife
Posts: 16

United Kingdom 
Puma 90 chassis replacement
My 2009 Puma 90 chassis rear cross member has some holes now, and the front outrigger the same so Ive started the process of removing the body from the chassis to replace with a new galvanised chassis. I can see most of the body to chassis mounts and the wiring, fuel lines etc at the rear end - I cant see clearly how much wiring there is to disconnect at the bonnet/bulkhead - has anyone any advice of how to tackle this ?.
Post #1019624 30th Dec 2023 10:59am
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InternationalDBA



Member Since: 18 Feb 2018
Location: West Sussex
Posts: 19

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
I am doing the same on a 2008 110 Puma.
I am having to do it outside so I took out the engine, took out the gearbox, supported the body with the wheels slightly off the ground, undid the connecting bolts between the chassis and the body then let the chassis down.
Regarding your question, the loom goes through the right hand chassis leg so I disconnected the wiring at both ends and pulled it out.
I fitted a cheap set of wheels without tyres to lower the chassis far enough to be able to roll it out from under the body.
With hindsight I should have removed the springs too to lower it even further.
Raising the body without a 2 post lift was not easy as it was already about 3 feet off the ground.
I rolled the chassis out forwards slowly, checking to see that everything had been disconnected and that nothing was still attached.
As I was doing this I had to relocate the axle stands each time part of the chassis collided with them.
I swapped the suspension and steering onto the new chassis and rolled it back in.
I lifted the new chassis back up to the body and reconnected it to the body.
I'm using a Richards chassis.
It fitted the body well but there were several extra holes to drill e.g. the holes to locate the clips for the brake pipe which runs along the top of the chassis, the holes for the rear mud flaps and the holes for the fuel cooler which is bolted to the chassis.
I used rivet nuts to provide a thread where this was required.
I imagine there will be other holes to drill and tap before I am finished.
Next job is to refit the gearbox.
Hopefully this will not stop me using a drill to make any further holes I might need to secure the fuel lines.
Post #1035337 21st May 2024 5:14pm
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