 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Rear door table |
 
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| MrEnglishman Member Since: 20 Sep 2023 Location: Norwich Posts: 3   
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I did just buy that exact table on Ebay for Β£56 delivered https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284617877959
I must say, the quality is very good. It's thick, heavy and well made. I'm gonna put a thick piece of perspex on the back of the rear door card and bolt the table to the door card onto that, and not the metal door itself. I have new clips for the door card, but the door card is secured on by screws going through the upper door handle anyway, and so it wont come off. Should work fine, and I've seen others do it. Last edited by MrEnglishman on 19th May 2024 6:35pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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19th May 2024 5:45pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 511
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Hi Martin, if you mean a photo of the fixings with the door card removed, sorry don't have that, but it's basically 4riv nuts.. M6 if memory serves me right.. I had a look at the area with the card off and once I was happy I'd be hitting suitable metal areas I put the card back on and spotted through with a small drill to mark the riv nut locations using the table as a template |
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19th May 2024 6:29pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 511
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Yes.. I got fasteners into the door structure.. I can't remember if I used spacers on any of the fixing points to support the table framework.. Ie support the door card?
When I next have the door apart I'll try and remember to take some shots for future reference π |
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20th May 2024 7:51am |
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| khamuul Member Since: 14 Oct 2017 Location: Teutoburg Forest Posts: 24  
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Started installation today. Some information for future reference:
 Click image to enlarge There is some metal structure/frame and there is 22mm space between the cardboard and the outer metal frame. Click image to enlarge For the inner/left screws, there is an additional 9mm space. Click image to enlarge I decided to first find my best spot for the table on the cardboard, drill 6mm holes and mark these points through the holes to the door's metal parts. Then put rivnuts nearby and build some matching spacers with the 3d printer. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge I am very happy with this robust thing.  |
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20th May 2024 10:43pm |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 511
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Nice job and a well deserved cuppa at the endππ
I wish I could use a 3d printer π |
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21st May 2024 6:12am |
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| LR Nuts Member Since: 10 Aug 2022 Location: UK Posts: 1096 
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Each owner n engineer has their own way of mounting the table. Some say the table base should have the 'lip' down, others 'lip' up.
The over-sprung catches are OK, others want push-pins as retainers when closed up. There is no right and wrong way, its down to how you prefer to do it. Below was my engineering solution ..... Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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21st May 2024 8:56am |
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| andy63 Member Since: 30 Jun 2023 Location: north east Posts: 511
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That also looks good, you have the luxury of a bit more room.. You will notice that the mounting brackets on the older defender's need to be turned in over as the door is not wide enough to accommodate them turned out, and with the fixings been on the outside of the upright π
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21st May 2024 9:22am |
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| khamuul Member Since: 14 Oct 2017 Location: Teutoburg Forest Posts: 24
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 good koffee 
This is one of my spacers being mounted. Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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21st May 2024 10:29pm |
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