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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Dripping on the new brick driveway
So got the driveway brick paved that’s nice thought my Landrover and decided to dump down some fluid to make it home

After a quick shifty underneath I think it’s water from the coolant. This is confirmed by my header tank taking 1.5l to fill up to the mark.



Click image to enlarge


From the best that I can see the power steering pump (think it’s the lowest of these is wet on top) from underneath it looks like it’s dripping from this (thought it was power steering leak first) so my question to the masses is what are the other two driven items here? I guess fuel pump and maybe something else, or a idler.

Has anybody else had an issue in this area? Before I strip it all down and wait 3 weeks for parts to cross the great divide thought I would ask the knowledgeable people on here.

Thanks Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1034988 17th May 2024 8:55am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
I’m assuming yours is a 2.4

The middle one is the water pump , so consistent if coolant is coming from there. https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...pump_44997.

https://www.lrworkshop.com/diagrams/land-r...elts_45006[/s]
Post #1034997 17th May 2024 10:58am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Yep it’s a 2.4

So at least I know what to search for first

Thanks Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1035000 17th May 2024 11:50am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
It could be the gasket between the water pump and the engine, worth a check there first.
The pulley above is the vacuum pump, i think to replace the water pump gasket you need to remove the vacuum pump as well, if so a new vacuum pump gasket would be beneficial.
Post #1035003 17th May 2024 12:00pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20441

United Kingdom 
It’s likely the water pump it’s self, but yes, new gaskets are a must in my opinion anyway.
I would not assume it’s just a gasket, as you’ll put it all back and get a leak again.
I found it’s the gasket between the two halves of the pump itself, I replaced the pump and gaskets.

It’s not a difficult job, just time consuming and be sure to follow the bleed procedure.
I found the thermostat hose the best place to drain it from.
If your coolant is ten years old or more I’d replace it, if you reuse it it must be kept very clean.
Personally I think replacing is a better approach it’s not a job you want to repeat often. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪
Post #1035005 17th May 2024 12:14pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17443

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Usually the first thing to leak on a 2.4 is the blanked-off spigot on the plastic manifold on the back of the pump. I've got through two of those (and only one pump) in 270k miles.

The blanking cap is very expensive if you order the 2.4 part but much less so if you order the 2.2 part (which is identical). There is a thread where I had a rant about this part here: https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic87744.html?highlight=spigot
Post #1035010 17th May 2024 12:34pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks guys

Normally when I get a second hand car (BMW normally first thing I change as preventitive maintenance is the water system as they use lovely plastic that gets brittle as soon as it’s out of the box.

So I’ll prob change the water pump, also good time to change the idler pullies and serpentine belt. Just gathering part numbers.

Found one of them fancy water pumps that somebody mentions on your thread Mr Blackwolf, only issue is it’s on Amazon and delivery is 25th November 😱.

It’s leaking when stationary. So not movable at present, thanks again for the help guys. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1035032 17th May 2024 5:19pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
so water pump changed, could not identify the exact leak location, but when water was added, it came out directly. Hoping it was the pump as that was a PITA to remove the water hose clips, more than one occasion I thought about getting the grinder out, and then adding jubilee clips to re-mount, but battled on and got that done.

Annoyingly though I thought this is a good time to replace the heater valve, as its was showing signs of starting to leak, that was a bad move, as the new item once attached (not a LR part but one of the other compatible parts from another vehicle) I moved the temp to hot in the cabin, and the arm ripped off the valve, so now to order a new valve.

I could of put it all back together then changed the valve in a few days when it arrives, but thought best to leave the coolant out till I have the valve again.

Bonus also noticed a idle pulley was noisy so will order one of them also. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1035867 28th May 2024 5:59am
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Badger110



Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: South hams
Posts: 1039

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue
You can bypass the valve if you need to refill to move the truck
Post #1035871 28th May 2024 6:57am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Luckily it can wait as it’s not blocking anything at present. Also doing the idler means I don’t need to play again in a couple of weeks when that arrived Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1035874 28th May 2024 7:57am
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Badger110



Member Since: 06 Feb 2018
Location: South hams
Posts: 1039

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Buckingham Blue
It is worth getting an original part when replacing that valve as the cheaper ones tend to break at the shoulder of the outlet.

The only downside is an original part comes with the bracket as well…
Post #1035877 28th May 2024 8:41am
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
You read my mind, ordered yesterday will be here 8-10 days Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1035897 28th May 2024 1:23pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Ok, so changed water pump, that’s a fun job!

Got up to temp on what felt like hottest day of the year yet. And no more drips on the driveway.

From the look of one of the bolts it could of been the gasket between vacuum pump and water pump but not 100% sure, also water pump was making a slight noise when turned, along with another idler pully so changing the pump and pully makes engine a little quieter 😂

Thanks for the help again guys. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1037579 16th Jun 2024 8:19am
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Ianh



Member Since: 17 Sep 2018
Location: Essex
Posts: 2029

United Kingdom 
Good to hear it’s all back and working.

Ps, re the heater valve. If engine is cold and the valve set to hot, then no need to clamp any hoses when changing, all you will loose is about 300ml of coolant which you can catch in a cup when removing the first hose.
Post #1037594 16th Jun 2024 12:18pm
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Race.it



Member Since: 27 Aug 2019
Location: Algeciras
Posts: 823

Spain 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Alaska White
Thanks, was empty anyhow since the pump was out so thought may as well change when in there, as mine was stiff, then replacement part broke so got a genuine one. Searching for my first Defender...and started just as Covid hit, so talk about timing.

5 months after starting the search I found it, and here is the details
Post #1037596 16th Jun 2024 12:23pm
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